Can you tell me about the set up?
UVB? Type coil or tube? How old?
Area to locate a Herp Vet?
Temps and how measured?
crickets lettuce carrots. she is trying to eat her lettuce now
large tank with alpine reptile bedding
60watt bulb uvb red one, temp. of tank 70 but light has been turned off for 30 minutes while holding her.
no substrate or supplements
is defecating, last stool unknown
You Have some serious husbandry issue that may be going on. The alpine bedding is very dangerous as it can cause an internal blockage that can cause paralysis. The next problem you have is that the Dragon needs a UVB light as well as a daily calcium supplement to help prevent Metabolic Bone Disease which can also cause paralysis. The diet of greens you are feeding is wrong as lettuce hold no nutritional vaue and carrots can cause eyeproblems if given on a regular basis. YOu temps are also critical to the health and well being of your Dragon. I am going to give you my care sheet tyo read and once you do hit reply so we can start some first aid and give you some names of Herp Vets in your area. THisDragon will need to be seen asap. Joan
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby 2. 3-12 months-juvenile 3. 12-18 months- sub adult 4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended. 2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F Cool side: 85-90 Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115 Cool side: 80-85 Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further assist. http://www.repticzone.com/articles/fruitsandvegetablesrated.html This is for fruits and Vegetables
http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3 calci sand
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm
The first thing is to give the Dragon a nice soak in 1/2 plain pedilayte and 1/2 warm water. You will need to start the Dragon on the proper diet listed in the care sheet. Dust all prey with calcium powder and make sure the prey is no bigger than the space between the eyes. You will need a tube type UVB 10.0 light to be used 12-14 hours day. You can even take some baby food chicken and mix the calcium powder in the chicken baby food and drop on the snout and allow the dragon to lick it off. Do not try to force feed since it can cause aspiration into the lungs. I willgive you a link to Herp Vets in the area. It is important to get the Dragon in asap. Joan
There are several Herp Vets in Phoenix: http://www.anapsid.org/vets/arizona.html
At thisage plain paper is fine, paper towels, cage carpert, slate or what I use is ceramic tile that I can lift out and washas needed.I have seen too many problems with a loose substrate, especially in young dragons. Please saty away from the supoosed safe substrates that the pet shops sell as they are the worst. Please see the link on calci sand. It is the same for all loose substrates. If you want something more decorative the cage carpet is good. easy to wash and dry. Joan