Can you tell me about the set up?
UVB? Type coil or tube? How old?
Area to locate a Herp Vet?
Temps and how measured?
I need answers to these questions to help you.
What is the bedding you are using?
Is he eating? What type of greens?
The UVB light and supplements?
The first thing is to get rid of the walnut sheel that is one of the worst substrates on the market next to the calci sand. It not only can cause an impaction but can perforate the intestinal tract. The kale binds clacium and is not a good staple veggie. The Dragon needs not only a UVB but a calcium supplement daily to prevent Metabolic bone disease. The white sounds like shed, but I am worried about the not eating and lethagy being an impaction. This is very graphic, but gets the point across about walnut shell:
For first aid the Dragon should be soaked in a warm bath with 1/2 Pedialyte and 1/2 warm water for 20 mins. During this soak you will need to massage the abdomen from snout to vent. Repeat this daily. It should stimulate a bowel movement. You should also have the Dragon checked by a herp vet. I can locate one for you with a state or country. I am giving you my care sheet to help you. Joan
Bearded Dragon Care Sheet
1. 0-3 months- baby 2. 3-12 months-juvenile 3. 12-18 months- sub adult 4. 18 months + -adult
1. A UVB light source-best is 10.0 Reptisun that runs the length of your tank. Your dragon must have this light to metabolize calcium. If not he will get metabolic bone disease, a serious condition. You can also take your beardie outside to bask in the sun for 15 minutes each day if your temps are 80 degrees or above outside. You can purchase cages or reptariums from your pet store. Never leave a beardie outside unattended. 2. A basking type light that puts out heat and warmth above basking spot. Your beardie must have warmth to digest food & thrive.
Babies: Warm basking log: 105-125 degrees F Cool side: 85-90 Adults: Warm basking spot: 110-115 Cool side: 80-85 Measure temperatures with a digital probe type thermometer or a temp gun-these are most accurate. Stick on thermometers unreliable.
*Beardies over the age of one year old during the winter months will go into a Brumation like most Reptiles and Herps. It is a form of Hibernation that is governed by the weather and time of year. The lights should be on a shorter period at this time. Fresh greens should be available during this period. Do not feed live prey during Brumation.
Water: Mist your little one with the spray bottle 3-4 times a day. You can also offer a small dish of water in your enclosure but be sure your dragon is not too small to drown in it. It is recommended that when your beardie is 2 months old you can bathe your baby in a small plastic container with warm water- not hot. It will help them to stay hydrated. As they get older you can move up to the bathroom sink and then to the bathtub. Very important for bath enclosure to be thoroughly cleaned and rinsed prior to bath time. Clean between dragons too if bathing more than one.
If you have any further questions feel free to ask. I like to start people off with proper husbandry and then see if I can further assist. http://www.repticzone.com/articles/fruitsandvegetablesrated.html This is for fruits and Vegetables
http://www.beardeddragon.org/articles/impaction/?page=3 calci sand
sexing bearded Dragons: http://repticzone.com/articles/sexingbeardeddragons.html
compact UVB problems: http://www.uvguide.co.uk/phototherapyphosphor-info.htm