Hello and thank you for using justanswer.
Since there is fuel coming out of the vacuum fitting for the fuel pressure regulator, it must be replaced. This will cause the engine to run poorly and use too much fuel. You will also want to check the MAP sensor vacuum hose, as it is common for this hose to fail on the 2.4 engine.
To replace the fuel pressure regulator, You should remove the fuel rail from the engine first.
The fuel line attaches to the bottom of the fuel pressure regulator with one screw and a metal retainer as shown in the picture below.
The fuel pressure regulator is secured to the fuel rail in a similar fashion, with one bolt and a metal retainer.
Where is the map sensor vaccum hose located at?
And if the map sensor is ok was the problem my gas pressure reg?
Oh! when I removed torx screw #8 showing from your picture the whole fuel retainer rail came apart #4,5,6 the only thing left is the reg attached to that long looking thing with #3 still attached to it inside and the fuel line on the bottom does it just pull out from the bottom of the reg? I see your instructions but if I got that part off fuel retainer reg how does it all dissconnect from the engine.
The fuel pressure regulator was most likely your problem. The map sensor is located on the intake manifold. If you are standing at the front of the car look at the side of the engine closest to the radiator, near the top. #2 is the hose that normally cracks.
For the removal of the fuel pressure regulator, first remove screw #4 and pull the fuel line out from the bottom of the regulator. Then remove screw #8 and pull the regulator straight out of the fuel rail
David, I put the pressure reg in it drives allot better since putting that in and the tune up I did check the hose by the map sensor and it is ok. However since doing all that the car engine bogs down when I come to a complete stop in traffic. What I mean by that is if I'm in netural I notice the rpms going from 700 750 to 600rpms, and it feels like it wants to shut off and shakes a little but dosen't. When in park or foot on the brake at a stop waiting for the light to change it shakes a little as well but not as pronounced but I still noticed the rpm drop and if I turn up the heater or rear defroster it changes the rpms and it seems like it trys to fight back with the rpms going up and down from 600 to 500.
What is the ideal rpm suppose to be at for this car if I turn it up will that help! or is there something else going on in the system? There is no service soon light or codes on I checked.
Also how do I adjust the rpms I notice two detent cables one going back to the floor peddle the other going to a square box on the passenger side closer to the wheel well.
I can't seem to find any adjustment screw for this other than an internal black looking threaded part that one of the cables go through next to the other one on this spring loaded round wheel, that I can adjust one way or the other but it dose'nt seem to make a difference.
There is no mechanical adjustment for idle speed. It is computer controlled. What you can do is clean the inside of the throttle body. Clean the throttle bore and throttle blade with carburetor cleaner spray. This should help stabilize the idle. If you still have problems with the idle, replace the idle air control valve.
Idle air control valve is #2 in the picture.
Tested car these past days runs allot better but wife is worried because of the 1,000 rpm always showing on the tac and now it's down to about 700. But so far so good I will clean the bore and blade and if I feel it dosen't help will repalce the idle control valve.