Nissan Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi Im David. thanks for visiting the site. is the reason for replacing those parts because of the clicking or it started after replacing those parts?
ok. double check the caliper bracket bolts. make sure the anti rattle clips for the brake pads arent dislodged and hitting anything and make sure any cotter pins that you replaced arent sticking out. also check the backing plates on the hubs and make sure they didnt get bent out or in.
did you use a washer behind the axle nut or was there not one there for the old one?
ok. how about the tone ring hitting on the wheel speed sensor?
the tone ring is what the sensor picks up it signal frome as the axle turns. its a metal round piece with teeth on it. if you loosen the abs sensor the abs light will come on, but when you put it back on and start driving it will go out.
true. did you replace it with an aftermarket?
moog is top notch. id be surprised if it was causing the issue, but worth a shot i suppose
i can opt out aand let another tech give an opinion
hello and welcome to just answer. I see you would like another opinion? I value your input on any questions I may ask to better help you.Does that cotter pin fit tight in the hole or loose?Does the clicking get louder or softer when you turn your wheel ? have you checked that tire for any stones or metal in the tread area?. The last thing Next time you are driving and hear it lightly touch the brakes to see if that makes it go away or increase it.Do you have any rust build up on the rotors?Give me input on all these questions then we can start illuminating items.
Just one more question to clarify something, you said it has to be moving to hear it ? it won't do it sitting while it warms up?
Ok this is hard not being there to actually see and listen to it with you so I'm going to ask you a strange thing. Seeing that you hear it at a very low speed we might get away with this.have you got an area that you can get up to that speed with no cars around like a parking lot ?What I would like you to do is remove the brake pads on that side completely and pinch the brake flex line with a pair of vise grips so you won't activate the caliper piston this will eliminate any brake issues totally and at that speed you don't need to apply the brakes that hard to stop it.
very well Certainly sounds like you bin meticulous and diligent in your work.Next question, does the vehicle have to be down on it's wheels to hear it or can you duplicate it if the front wheels were off the ground, also just for the hell of it have you tried rotating that wheel to the back and see if the ticking follows it?
Yes I realize what you stated previously, you stated you turned the wheel by hand? correct? I was hoping to turn it via engine slowly as you would be applying pressure on the drive train. also I understand about no noise backing up etc but at this point we have to eliminate all concerned and not assume anything, I have seen where tires were cracked in the rim area where you couldn't see it causing noises also the rim itself. so won't hurt to rotate just those two on that side.
You also stated you walked beside it when it was moving to hear the clicking, can you position yourself more in the middle to actually see if the nois is infact from the wheel are or perhaps more to the middle
That would be the way to go, then you can use a stethascope or screwdriver to your ear to walk it along to pipiont the location.If you need I'll be here for further help let me know what you findI hope it's not something silly like a stone caught in the wheel some where.
This is why I wanted you to get under it while running to walk a stethoscope along the suspected area to pinpoint it because drive line noises are notorious for traveling and making you go on a wild goose chase.