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Matt
Matt, Engineer
Category: Nissan
Satisfied Customers: 20598
Experience:  BEng hons Mech engineering, worked in auto industry for 22 years on engine, transmission and suspension design
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I have a 2004 X-trail 2.2 diesel. After the car gets to its

Customer Question

I have a 2004 X-trail 2.2 diesel. After the car gets to its temperature it starts to cut out, if it don't get full or fire. If you keep the revs up to 3000 rpm you can go on but lower it just cut off
JA: Have you checked the battery, particularly the terminal connections? Are they corroded?
Customer: Thats fine, I think it could be with the pump
JA: What is the model of your '04 Nissan?
Customer: Its a 2.2 diesel
JA: Are you fixing your vehicle yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: i have change the air flow mass meter if a have the correct name for it
JA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: i have also change the diedel filters and that is not the problem because it's not block or dirty
Submitted: 1 month ago.
Category: Nissan
Customer: replied 1 month ago.
Whats going on any help????????????????
Expert:  Matt replied 1 month ago.

Hello

This could be a lack of fuel pressure from the electrical transfer pump at the tank.

If the connections to this are corroded or damaged then the pump could stop at any time or could not be running at full speed. Check that its relay switches in and out and the relay contacts are clean and bright – replace the relay if in any doubt and do the same for the fuse,
Ideally measure the pressure at the inlet to the main engine fuel pump and if this is low check the pump as described and also consider changing the fuel filter as if this partially blocked this too will reduce pressure.

If both of these are OK then also check the connections to the EGR valve, if either the vacuum pipe of electrical connection are damaged / corroded then the EGR can be on all time which certainly will hurt performance. Its also possible that its a fault with the EGR valve so its worth removing the valve and cleaning it out with brake cleaner, if it looks particularly clogged then replace it.

If this is OK then check the small vacuum lines to the turbo and its connected control solenoid on the bulkhead, any cracks or leaks can give turbo issues and its best to have the boost pressure measured actually measured with a boost gauge to check that the turbo is healthy and that the sensor is reading correctly

If its a variable vane turbo (they’ll be an actuator on the turbo body - but not a wastegate) then check its vacuum pipework as above and check the connections to the diaphragm / solenoid valve

Also worth checking that the glow-plug relay is switching off as they can stick on and leave the glow plugs also on - on some cars this can force it into limp home

Also worth considering adding a bottle of injector cleaner into the tank as a clogged injector nozzle will reduce power and give poor combustion - the next stage on from this is to remove all the injectors and have them ultrasonically cleaned and flow checked

Also check all the high pressure hoses post turbo/s for any split hoses or cracked metal pipes, also check the ends of the intercooler as its not unheard of to pop the end caps off under high boost.

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