Nissan Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hello my name is ***** ***** thank you for your question.
I am sorry to hear about your late wife. I will do my best to try to help you.
Do you have a Test light to check all fuses? Also do you hear a single click when you try to start it? Did you try starting it in neutral?
Let me know.
Well I am online till about 10 or 11 pm EST so I will be here to help you for a little while.
I work during the day, so I will not be online then to help you. If that is when you would need help, I will opt out and allow another expert to answer your question if they can be online for you at the times you require.
At the same time, we can also speak on the phone if you wanted to use the Premium Service. That would of course speed things up even more. So that is a offer available to you as well if you didn't know it. But there is a extra charge for that service.
The relays you were playing with?
Well the first thing I would do is turn the ignition to the ON position, and use the test light to check all fuses inside the car and under the hood. Then I would check power at the starter when the key is turned to the crank position if the starter is not engaging. You would need a second person to help you with that part. You need to unplug the gray connector at the starter to check power there. The starter is located on the passenger side of the engine.
You don't need to pull fuses to check fuses. This test light works fine for checking fuses. Here is a video on how you check fuses with a test light to help you.
Find something metal. You can use the Brake pedal or any of the bolts on the firewall under the dash.
You don't want to pull the fuse to check it. You want to use the test light on each side of the fuse and make sure the test light lights up on both sides of each fuse. If it only lights up on one side, that fuse is blown. If a fuse is not getting power, note what fuse it is and let me know..
You can test with power on and power off. But not all fuses get power when the key is off. That is why you check fuses with the key on, so all fuses should have power.
Have a good night David, I will talk to you tomorrow.
There is a number of fuses that can do that. That is why it's best to check them all to start.
Let me know how you make out
Ok.. So you found one bad fuse. Does the engine now turn over and try to start?
Then the next step is to see if the starter is getting power when the key is turned to the crank position.
I would rather you not replace a part unless we verify it needs it.
Is there anyone that can help you later to check to see if the starter is getting power when the key is turned to the crank position?
Yes, what you do is unplug the gray connector at the starter and with the test light you want to stick it in the connector while someone turns the key and holds it in the crank position. If the test light lights up, that means you are getting the proper power to the starter and you need a starter. If it doesn't light up, then we need to look at the starter circuit and try to isolate your issue.
Sorry for the delay. If you crawl under the truck behind the passenger front wheel you should be able to access the starter. It's a gray 1 pin connector. You would only need to probe that one wire. Clip the ground of the test light to something metal to test.
They can. Or you got one bad battery. I would try swapping the batteries and see if the problem switches. If it does, then you know you have a bad remote battery
Any chance you can take a picture and show me what you are seeing?
I don't recommend using wood. I can normally just slide under. Maybe get a small hydrulic jack to jack it up a little.
You want to only deal with the electrical plug at the starter. Don't worry about that boot unless you are going to change it.
I need to call it a nite. I m tired as heck. getting to bed early tonight.
Let me know how you make out..
Checking in to see how you are making out..
Not a problem. Take your time. Heath is more important. I am here when you need help with this. So no worries there...
Wow... You got allot of work ahead of you after we get it running again.. hehe
Just take your time. Remember to work at a pace that works for you. Don't push yourself to hard.
Time to get some Zzz's. Talk to you soon. Have a good night.
Not a problem Sir! You take care of yourself. I will be here when you are feeling better .
Well if the starter is not engaging to try to start the truck, we need to check for power at the starter to see if it's getting power. This way it gives us a source of direction.
I use a small screw driver to press the release tab to unplug that connector if it gives me a hard time...
You tested it with the key in the Crank Position correct?
Ok.. We need to Locate the Park / Neutral Relay under the hood
is that on the passenger fender?
hmm.. It should say PNP relay...
That is the wiring diagram. So you can see what I am seeing.
Thank you for that. This is a V6 with automatic transmission. I was going to ask if it was a stick...
Clutch interlock Relay.. That is the one you want to remove..
Ok... Lets continue tomorrow. I should be online earlier tomorrow. Maybe around 5 pm EST.
Thanks for the complement.
With that relay removed, if you look at the under side of it. You can see the numbered pins. Do you see them?
Pin number 5, we want to see if that is getting power now when the key is turned to the crank position
Take the alligator end and just put it on the negative battery terminal. Then take the pointed end to pin 5 where the relay would be. Then turn the key to the Crank Position to see if you have power. If you do have power, it should light up
You can leave it disconnected for now. If we are getting power at pin 5, then I am going to want you to plug it in.
Take your time
Key was in the crank position, right?
Then something is disrupting power from the ignition switch to this pin. Do you know if the truck has a after market alarm?
You never told me that the alarm would go off. When the alarm went off, was the head lights flashing or the parking lights?
The reason I am asking is cause the type of lights would tell me the type of alarm that is going off. At the same time, the factory alarm won't keep power from getting to pin 5 on that relay.
Let me know..
AHHH.. That is a After Market alarm.. This is making sense now.. We need to take a look under the dash for a after market alarm. It looks like this
I hear ya.. When you can is all I am saying. You know I reply back to you as soon as I can.
Not a problem. Talk to you soon
Just cause the key fob is a Nissan fob, they have remote start systems that use the factory remote, yet in order to get a remote start to work, a after market alarm has to be installed. The name of the alarm may not be the same in the image I provided, but take a peak under the dash and let me know if you see anything that looks like it.
Yes and yes. The first couple images is the Ecm. The others I can't see anything after market. The security light to blink when you open the door is normal.
We may need to check power out of the ignition switch. See if the ignition switch is able to supply power to go to Pin 5. Even though you are not getting power, if we have power out of the switch, that means there is a wire issue from the ignition switch to the relay.
No, we are going to need to access the ignition switch connector.
We need to see if the Black wire with the Yellow stripe is getting power when the key is turned to the Crank Position.
The connector should be right under the drivers side dash for the ignition switch.
We need to try to leave the plug connected and check for power. If you have a pin you can use to push into the back of the connector then use the test light to touch the pin to check for power.
Sorry about the delay. I got online late tonight cause I was out with my family.
If you check for power at the Black wire with the Yellow stripe at the ignition switch and you do have power! Then you need to ohm the wire from the ignition switch to pin 5 at the relay. I am sure you won't have continuity which means some where between the ignition switch and that relay there is a broken wire. So now the hard part. Follow the harness to try to locate that broken wire. Or cut the wire at the ignition switch and run your own wire to pin 5 at the relay. This is going to get more advanced as far as electrical diagnostic after you check for power.
Now if you check for power and you don't have power coming out of Black wire with the yellow stripe, Then you need to check for power going into the ignition switch which is the Green wire. I provided you with the wiring diagram if you want to look at it to try to under stand what I am having you do.