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Tim Mohr
Category: Nissan
Satisfied Customers: 554
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Maxima: ! I apologize, but I am very detail oriented,

Customer Question

Hello! I apologize, but I am very detail oriented, and this will be a long question! lol Thanks in advance!!
I have turned here for some assistance with my 2005 Nissan Maxima SE. I brought the car to the dealer because there was a lot of work that needed to be done. It totaled $4,894.95 after the "discount" they gave me. If what was done caused the problem with my car, and my main question is that if they installed any of this wrong (loose connection, tensioning problem, etc) and their error is causing the issue. I am just trying to educate myself as best as possible.
*First, I need to note what I've done to my car, and then I will list what they did to my car,
ME: I have a couple small LED lights operating off a Cigarette lighter power hub, with a in line fuse. I have two LED lighting strips in the trunk that replaced the weak stock trunk light. And finally, I have a 500 w Alpine Amp powering a 12" Alpine Type R at 2 ohms. 6AWG power wire, 4AWG ground wire. LOC tapped into the Bose factory subwoofer wiring. HID bulb and ballast upgrade to replace stock foglights. Plug and play system.
Note that all of these things were installed in the car and operating perfectly before I brought it to the dealer.
-Replaced VIAS Solenoid
-Replaced ABS Actuator and Sensor (Sensor Assy, anti skid, rear)
-Replaced Front Brake Pads and Rotors (using value advantage parts??)
-Replaced Rear Brake Pads and Rotors and BOTH L and R Calipers
-Performed Brake Flush
-Replaced Timing Chains and Tensioners and Guides
-Replaced Timing Chains Secondary and Main, and Tensioners and Guides.( Chain-Camshaft, -Chain Guide,Tensioner Assy-Chain, Tensioner Face,Chain-Camshaft, Seal O Ring, Seal-Oil, Crankshaft Front, Guide-Chain, Tension Side)
-Replaced Oil Filter Housing O-Ring
-State Inspection
Within 15 minutes of driving off the lot, I noticed a massive problem that had never been there before I brought it there. When I accelerated rapidly to feel how much faster the tech said the car would be, my BATTERY and BRAKE dash lights flickered rapidly, and my car suddenly lost all engine revs while the pedal was still pressed. Then, it violently jolted forward and went back to normal. I immediately pulled over and call the dealership and they advised me to put a couple hundred miles on the car first, due to the nature of the parts they installed.
Well, that didn't work, it continues to flicker but never staying light, and it actually started doing some other sketchy things, all when accelerating around and above 3500rpms:
--My aftermarket amplifier wired of course directly to the battery, would cut out momentarily, and then the bass would pop right back in like nothing happened. I am unable to tell if the amp itself is actually turning off, or if it is just loosing the battery power (I"m almost positive its the latter - i installed car audio for many years).
--My aftermarket, HID foglight have occasional turned off, then right back on. Again off during a hard acceleration, then when the RPM's drop the lights come back on. This has only happened a few times, the Amp issue is more frequent.
--Since picking up the car, my Sirius satellite radio has also been malfunctioning. I know those will eventually shit the bed, and it could just be the tuner and/or antenna's time to go, but occasionally the music has went from being on, to "acquiring" immediately after hard acceleration. Possibly it could be a related issue?
So, the dealer of course told me to bring it back in and drop it off so they can look at it. I showed up and went with a drive with the Tech that did all the work to my car, and he had no clue what it could be, but to make a appointment to drop off the car.
I have yet to make that appointment, because I"m nervous that the tech realized in that drive and he knows he might have done something wrong, and to cover this up they would just tell me I need more work done, rather than fixing the problem they made. So, I've been trying my little-average-joe-car-knowledge ass off attempting to establish some type of familiarity with whats going on, so this way I can be better educated in the presence of the Tech, and not be taken for a ride.
I have done some testing myself, with what I can:
Testing the Alternator with a multimeter, all readings were OK, but when the engine is revved past 3-4k, the voltage at the batter spikes as high as 15/16 volts. I also noticed my dash lights brightened at that rev. Is the spike like that normal? I've heard that if the alternator is overcharging the car will shut off electrical items for safety but it only shut things off directly wired to the battery???
Really struggling to have a better idea other than "your alternator is f**ked". Because what if what they did broke something? Thank you so much for your time!!!
Submitted: 5 months ago.
Category: Nissan
Customer: replied 5 months ago.
I also kept reading about the voltage regulator being busted. Maybe there's a fuse just for that somewhere that I can replace?
Man, if I can do this fix myself, or at least know what to do, I can tell them that so they won't try to squeeze any more money out of me! (that, and I"m now broke. I'm on Disability and my life savings went into fixing the car. I hope it will be ok!)
Expert:  Jay replied 5 months ago.
Hello my name is ***** ***** thank you for your question. We are limited to one topic per question. So out of your whole question ( which I have not read the whole thing ) what main issue would you like to address for your main question? Is the main issue the battery and brake light flickering? What size amp did you install? Did you run a compactor?
Expert:  Jay replied 5 months ago.
You had already paid for this question. Please reply to this question so you will not absorb any additional charges.