Nissan Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
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That wave forms, you can't use them if the car is not running.
Distributors are common on these cars. Did you do any type of Engine work on this car?
Did you check to see if it has a after market alarm or anything?
Also what color wires do you have at the crank sensor connector?
Is there any codes?
Did you make sure the timing chains were correct? Also when it comes to after market distributors, they never work right. So you could still be dealing with a distributor issue.
When you did the cylinder head, you made sure you didn't get the Cams mixed up also, right? The intake cam is what aligns the Distributor. Another way to determine if you have everything right with the timing is to put the engine on TDC and see if the distributor rotor points to number 1 on the cap.
Those are all Nats codes... When you turn the key to the ON position, is the security light solid?
If so, that means it will kill injector pulse. Not spark.
Ok.. Good.. Just trying to cover everything since I am not there.
The P1610 is lock mode, you get this when it can't detect a programmed key. P1612, that is a communication issue from the Immu to the Ecm.
Are those two hard codes?
If I don't ask questions, I can't picture the issue.
Are you sure you have no spark?
If you can, take a spark plug out and stick it in the spark plug wire and lay it near a ground to check for spark.
Can you please double check the color wires to the crank sensor?
ok, I am expecting the security light to be solid if you are getting NATS codes.
Talk to you later...
That is the correct wire color to the Crank Sensor. So we are good there.
The spark thing is getting me. Allot of people replace fuel pumps cause they can spray starting fluid in the engine and it will run. So they think it's a pump issue. When it's really a key programming problem cause it kills injector pulse.
You may need to try another Ecm and see if you get spark. Other wise, follow the steps for the P0340 code to see what you come up with. Something is off.
Did you say you had another Ecm?
That could be. Do you have the Ecm terminal References to go through each pin?
The way I do it, I would take the info I am going to provide. Download it and print it. I would go through each pin. If it calls for engine running, I would skip that one. I would skip all the ones that would say engine running.
Hang on while I get this for you..
oh... Jezz.. I am sorry. I forgot to get you the ECM terminal reference.. I will get that for you now.. Sorry about that..
That is the Ecm terminal layout. Sorry
Let me know if you have any more questions on this.
You did that perfect. Exactly how I would have done it. Now that we found something incorrect in the test, we can look at that circuit to see if that i playing a factor in the issue.
I attached the wiring diagram that goes to pin 27 on the Ecm so you can try to determine if it's a wiring issue ( short ) causing this
Well it is bad regardless so I would certainly start there.
What did you find at pin 18 on the ecm reference?
never mind.. Relooking at your readings.
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I said that was where you needed to start. I never said that would fix your problem. That has proven to be bad, so that circuit would need to be checked along with the TPS.
Let me know how you make out..
Ok, let me know how you make out
How are you checking for spark?
Do you know if the car has a after market alarm installed?
If you have no codes, no spark and the Ecm terminal reference check really did not come up with anything other than the TPS not being installed properly, the only thing I can think of that can cause no spark is if there is a after market alarm on the car that is keeping it from providing spark
Did you check for a after market alarm ?
I know I have seen the transistor plugged into the Crank Sensor. Those connectors swapped. But I think we checked that right?
Does the distributor rotor turn when then is beibg turned over?
Did you happen to have the key programmed to the car yet? I recall you said that the security light was solid when you turned the key to the ON position which is a indication that the key needs to be programmed to the car.
This shouldn't affect spark, but it will help with starting the car.
That is the diagnostic steps for the cam sensor. I know you don't have a code for this, but lets go though this to make sure everything is there. I am leaning towards the distributor right now. That has to be part of the problem. You can't get after market ones though. Their operation can't be trusted and never work right.
There is not one particular sheet to give Accessory power, so this is the power supply and routing.
If you didn't download the data, I am constantly changing files in my dropbox so you may have viewed something else. Let me give it to you again, but please download the data as it's constantly changing in my dropbox
You got it. It sounds like it has to be a distributor issue. That is the only thing I can think of. We tested everything else. The only thing I can think of is the Distributor, it could have had a signal plate shift which would not allow it to fire.
When it comes to After Market Electrical parts.. Nothing surprises me.
80% of the time after market electrical parts don't work
That is just crazy. Are you sure there is no after market alarm in the car? For no spark I would think there has to be a code stored!
Unless the timing is off. We may need to check the mechanical timing. If it's signal won't match the crank and it won't provide spark also.
The crank sensor is a Reference. if the signals are to far apart, it won't produce spark. It's easy to check the mechanical timing. All you need to do is pull the valve cover. Put the bottom end on TDC and see where the upper cams line up.
you had the engine apart?
Yes, that is correct. But the signals between the Cam and the Crank should reference each other. That is how it's used to diagnose. Also, if the engine was turned over with out removing the fuel pump fuse, it could allow the timing chain to jump time cause the tensioner is not fully pressurized. anything more than 2 teeth can cause no spark and valve damage.
Yes, the fuel pump fuse is removed to allow the timing chain tensioner to build pressure. You did have the head off and timing chains. I would look at the physical timing, take pictures of the front timing sprockets and front Cam lobes position closest to the chains. Then share them with me so I can check the timing with you. Just make sure the crank is on TDC and piston number 1 is all the way up
Your welcome. I should be online around noon tomorrow. I won't be on in the morning.
Thanks for the pictures. It does look good.
I have another thing I thought of checking for you. By the Ecm there is a Ecm relay. Try swapping that with another relay and see what happens after you get the valve cover back on
Running out of idea's.. This is a good one.
Here is some things you can check for non detectable item which would be spark related.
That circle is the Power Transistor which is in the distributor.
I am on my way out. I will be back in about a hour or two.
I just recently had a question while working with you, same year Altima, and same thing. No spark. We talked a bit, and I gave him the terminal reference values also. He asked if I thought it was the Ecm. I asked him almost everything that we have talked about. It is very rare to have two cars this old doing the exact same thing. But in any case, I said yes it was possible it could be the Ecm. He went out on his own and got a Ecm and had spark. Got the key programmed and that is what resolved his issue.
If you messed up those major ECM grounds, it may have done something to the Ecm. So I am going to say this has to be a Ecm for your issue as well.
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sounds like a dead short is causing the Ecm to burn out.
did you download that terminal reference chart I gave you?
Going to need to go through each pin and ohm it to ground. If that doesn't show anything, the you may have a harness issue or a component that is shorting out the ecm
Do you have any more questions on this?
If not, and you're satisfied with my help, please Rate me.
That is how I get credit for my work.