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Mike V.
Mike V., Nissan Technician
Category: Nissan
Satisfied Customers: 23844
Experience:  Nissan factory trained and Certified Subaru Technician.
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I have the dreaded meter fuse on a 94 pickup 4cyl automatic

Customer Question

I have the dreaded blown meter fuse on a 94 pickup 4cyl automatic that blows intermittently I am just trying to build a battle plan to attack it. I towed it in and found the fuse blown replaced it and drove it did not blow. All in said and done it never gave me a issue when the customer came to pick it up well you guessed it, it blew again... I have looked it over on the lift etc and have not seen a issue YET... I have somewhat studied the wiring aftermarket diagrams are very confusing. I know what systems operate off the fuse (I think) its just a matter of what direction to go at.... BTW its a dog :( but he's willing to spend the money to fix it. I am a 41 year veteran at the trade its not my first rodeo I don't mine paying for good help/info. I am about to call it night its been a long day. BTW the more I think about it he backs in in his drive I backed it in the parking place after I drove it. That's the only pattern I can come up with.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Nissan
Expert:  Mike V. replied 1 year ago.

Hi there,

Most common causes of the fuse blowing are either the speed sensor harness where it goes over the bell housing or the engine control harness where it comes across the front of the engine along the valve cover area. If memory serves, there is a bolt there that rubs through the harness and shorts out.

These are the 2 most common areas that I remember, it's been a while :)

Hopefully it'll help you out tomorrow.

If not, let me know I'll see what else I can come up with. Putting the truck into reverse shouldn't be a factor unless it's moving the harness somehow and causing contact.

Have a good night

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It has not blown today, I do see numerous places were the harness comes up from the engine to the firewall it could short. It has already rubbed the paint off the body seam on the firewall but has not rubbed thru the harness. I have looked over the harness at the trans and see no issues yet with it. I do not see were the harness can short in the injector/valve cover area but will go back over it again. Every thing that has even been worked on they left the harness loose they did not mount the hangers etc. It does idle slow and ruff its a shaker I can see why the harness has rubbed the paint off...
Expert:  Mike V. replied 1 year ago.

Well, I was hoping it would make your life a bit easier but appears that may not happen. The only other common issue is the instrument panel itself. If the speedo head screws are loose it might cause it. Otherwise sorry to say I have nothing more for you on this one.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Do you know if there is a slice and were in the harness were all the circuits branch off of the meter fuse circuit. I have yet to remove the fuse block to see if they branch directly off at the fuse panel.
Expert:  Mike V. replied 1 year ago.

Sorry, i do not know that info.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I removed the cluster no screws loose. I found the splice (excuse me if I do not the terminology) I removed the fuse panel the meter fuse supply power is a orange wire it sends power out a W/B wire (white with a black tracer). I already had removed the left kick panel removed a big white (looks like a bulkhead connector screwed to the body) behind it is a block/splice/bridge that bridges the W/B wire to the other circuits it powers up. I can not get it apart to chiefer out the power in wire. I am trying to make my mind up if I want to install a sub panel and fuse each circuit individually. I have a nice 6 fuse circuit board I can do that with, It may be my best use of time...
Expert:  Mike V. replied 1 year ago.

Sounds like an appropriate plan. I am with you on the wiring diagrams on these older models, really difficult to read and understand. Didn't start with Nissan until 2000 and by then up here in NY most folks weren't bringing the older models to the dealer so don't have a ton of time on those wiring diagram.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have learned allot more about this mess and got to were I can chiefer out the wiring ( At least I am not cuss'N the engineer enough to send us both to ell. (what I called a block/splice/bridge) is a "JOINT CONNECTOR C" I got it apart.it bridges several circuits.I am going to do the EZ stuff first and disconnect the shit interlock controller first and give it a try my time is getting expensive. It would come out of gear before even with the fuse blown.What the meter fuse powers
1) Meter & gauge, warring lamps all in gauge cluster.
2) Interlock emergency relay (relay power to the relay coil)
3) Inhibitor Switch (Range Switch) on side of transmission it supplys power for the back up lights.
4) ASCD (have not located this in the wiring diagram nor do I know what it is)
5) ECM (have not located this in the wiring diagram)
6) Seat belt timer
7) Blower Relay (relay power to the relay coil)
8) Automatic Transmission Control System.
9) Charging system (supply's power to the alternator/Generator Waring bulb in cluster)
10) Starting system ( supply's the Inhibitor relay power to the replay coil) Power passes thru the Inhibitor switch in park are neutral to the inhibitor relay.The fun part, there are basically three power wires that are feed off the Joint connector then some are spliced to those wires. That's why I elected to not cut it up at this time. Wish me luck I am going to put it back together and let the customer be the test monkey... Happy Wrenching
Expert:  Mike V. replied 1 year ago.

Check the wiring for the range switch. Another part that sometimes has issues up around the bell housing. It has a long harness on it that could be shorting out. When you put the truck in reverse if that is in fact the determining factor