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Billy
Billy, Trainer/Master tech.
Category: Nissan
Satisfied Customers: 3498
Experience:  Trainer 8+ years - master tech. 10+ years, SAE member
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Altima: amber key light illuminated on the dash. car starts.

Customer Question

amber key light illuminated on the dash. car starts. no other lights illuminate on the dash, cannot shift out of gear. after this happens, CEL illuminates with a fuel level sensor code.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Nissan
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
p0463 was the code the first time it happened
Expert:  Billy replied 1 year ago.
Hello and Welcome! I'm Billy and i will assist you with your inquiry. Feel free to ask if any further info is needed.
You mean you cannot shift out of P?
did you try the shift lock override button near the shifter lever? (you press it and move the shifter.
do the stop lamps function when the brake pedal is depressed?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Correct. None of the dash lights come on, I cannot shift out of park, Steering is "slow", if I rev up the engine it's like it is hitting the rev limiter. Sometimes if i let it idle for a minute everything will light up and start acting normal. This morning i think it was a coincidence but it was acting up so i put the fob in the port with no change. When I pulled the fob out it started running fine.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I have not tried the override button, im sure that would work to get it out of park. Not sure on the brake lights illuminating as I am usually by myself and it normally happens in the morning when its light outside.
Expert:  Billy replied 1 year ago.
Hello,
I would first check the brake light, just to confirm the brake light switch if faulty or not.
When you mean steering is slow, do you mean the steering wheel is a bit harder to turn?
can you check the alternator output, and the drive belt?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
brake lights are working
Expert:  Billy replied 1 year ago.
When you mean steering is slow, do you mean the steering wheel is a bit harder to turn?
can you check the alternator output, and the drive belt?
do you have other electrical problems (apart from the instrument cluster)?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
yes, it is harder to turn. The only electrical that works inside the car is the dome lights and stereo. Drive belt is new along with the tensioner. I am not able to check output right now on the alternator, it wont be until the end of the day that i can do that
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
but like i said it clears up after a minute usually and runs great. Could a bad fuel pump be throwing it into some kind of fail safe mode? The reason I ask is because of the fuel related CEl I get.
Expert:  Billy replied 1 year ago.
Hello,
Check the alternator output, and we'll proceed accordingly... as the alternator could cause this, and if not, we'll check the fuse/relay box, and next the BCM (body control module), and finally the cluster which is least likely. We're getting close... as i think this is from the fuse/relay box (or the accessory relay itself), or the BCM.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Of course it will not act up right now. But right now the alternator is putting out 13.75 volts
Expert:  Billy replied 1 year ago.
Hello,
Cars are like that, always acting up when you need them, and cleaning their act when trying to duplicate the problem. I would wait for the problem and check the alternator output then. Just so we are sure it is not causing this, before moving on to more expensive parts....
Cheers,
Billy
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It acted up again and I grabbed the volt meter. Voltage was reading 13.15. Brake lights were working.
Expert:  Billy replied 1 year ago.
Hello,
So, it should not be the alternator causing this.
Next we get to the relay module. Under the driver's side of the dash.
I would first try to check the connectors (clean and tight contacts), on this. (remove battery negative cable before proceeding).
I will include the details:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Zgf4dbmODzRU1LRjE3dGhzWVU/view?usp=sharing
Check the wiring connectors on the fuse box, and make sure the relays (ignition relay 2 and accessories relay mainly).
If the problem persists, then it would be either one of the relays, or the BCM (and its connectors to be checked first), or the IPDM.
We're tackling the most likely items first, and testing before replacing.
Kindly get back to me with your findings, so we proceed accordingly.
Regards,
Billy
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I pulled the codes from the BCM and have a B2553 and a B2604
Expert:  Billy replied 1 year ago.
Hello,
B2553: ignition relay open or closed circuit (problem from the wiring, connectors or the ipdm itself, there are two ignition relays, one in the ipdm, and one on the inside fuse box
B2604: PNP switch faulty. This could be from the switch itself, the wiring, or the transmission module, or the body control module.
We should start diagnosing the first code, as we have the electrical cut problem, that would cause the second fault.
This needs a nissan scan tool to diagnose properly, however, i will include the procedure, so you could at least get to the specific wiring.. (again, we're back checking the BCM and IPDM wiring, and the inside fuse box wiring connectors), here are the details:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Zgf4dbmODzUmRhTTRVc0IxMHc/view?usp=sharing
Regards,
Billy
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I went outside of town this weekend, yesterday morning it acted up again and I shut it off, replaced the ignition2 relay and started it back up. I have not had any issues yesterday or today. I will let you know if it is still and issue in the next few days. If not we can close this case
Expert:  Billy replied 1 year ago.
Hello,
This would be great news.... Best of luck for now!!
Waiting for your findings...
Regards,
Billy

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