Ok, I'm home. I saw the pics. Yell for me when you see this
I found out late in the afternoon that we had a grand national car show in our town today. Spent 3+ hours looking at all the cars. Must have been 500 to 750 cars there. The most I have ever seen at a car show. I will upload some of my favorites. And out of all of those cars, there was a 240Z!!!!!!! from 1972. perfectly restored. The guy was from california. And this was his third z car. He bought this 240 from Jay Leno, so he said.
I am going out to garage for about 15min to check something on a vehicle. Then I will pop back on here and see if you are online. thanks
I can't wait until I have time to get back into the car show scene. It has been too long ...
Jay Leno's former car...awesome
Wow, beautiful cars!
sorry took me longer than I thought
most of the cars all won some kind of awards.
I have never seen so many different cars, and many many cars have never heard of
one of my fav cars was the red mercedes 300SL parked next to the Z car
look how tiny the datsun looks compared to other cars by it, which are not really that big eitehr
it rained for like 1.5 hours out of 3 hours. But not a lot of rain thankfully, just a little. Some of those cars have never been wet once since restored. LIke 20 or 30 years ago some of the owners told us that
That datsun is in several commercials (and on youtube the owner said) for a nissan 240 Z 40th anniversary
and was also in a few ads that nissan did.
he showed us the ads.... and I am going to look for the video on youtube
Well I will be here a little longer, then I am going to meet some family at a triple A baseball game for a few hours 2night
heres a URL for ya http://vimeo.com/z1motorsports/2011znationals
Im back too :)
A 300 SL from the mid 50s with Gullwing doors is one of the most beautiful cars ever made
I never seen one like that before....and it was cool it was next to 240z
so do you have a little time to chat about the A/C compressor?
Yes, In a few minutes I have to check the codes in someone's car, then run for dinner, but for now we are good
maybe we will just chat for 5 minutes or so?
So on the truck, you would evacuate the system. Then remove the one bolt on that hose assembly that is connected to the compressor
Then tape up the two openings in that hose assembly to keep the air from saturating the accumulator
Then you would unplug that one connector on the front and if it has a pressure sensor on the back, unplug that one too
Then the belt
Finally the four bolts and off it will come
the a/c doesnt produce any cold air so I would assume its all empty now. it stopped being cold last year after 3 to 4 weeks
3 to 4 weeks after charging it...
it may be very low. Loosen that bolt on the hose assembly slowly and see if it hisses out with force.
there is goop on the compressor and Mike thought it was leaking and it has bad bearings too, because it sqeals sometimes...
A little hiss means it was almost empty. But if you have smoke from the refrigerant escaping, then you still have refrigerant there
he heard it squealing once luckily when I was there
its original GM part from 1999
I will be back. I have been ordered to get the food
It is most likely leaking. It is common
Ok, lets just catch up later....what time might U have?
2night, tomorrow? later than that?
PS when you say hose assembly, U do mean those metal pipes on top of it right?
talk to ya later! thanks
Based on what you said, it basically sounds really easy to take off, am I wrong? There are no gotcha's, tricky things to look out for , etc???
I have never taken a belt off before on any vehicle for that matter. So that worries me. Just because I have never done it. Now, I know for 1000% sure to make a diagram of exactly how it goes on there. So there will be no mistake to re-install it. But I tried to put a new a/c belt on the 280, and failed. It seemed impossible. And the belt on the blazer is really on there tight. I am sure, like it should be.
So I believe if the a/c compressor is as easy as it sounds to remove and reinstall a new one (not a refurb), then my issues will be with the belt.
I think what I might do, is take it to mikes shop and pay him for his time to show me, and let me remove it and replace it, under his guidence. That way, once I have done it at his garage, I can do it again a LOT easier in my own garage. For when I need to do it for real, after replacing the a/c compressor. And then he has all the stuff he needs to recharge it.
But if you really think I can do the belt without having to stand on one toe, with my head tilted just the right angle with one eye partially close and a 40 pound crowbar in my hands....then maybe I have a chance??? to just do it without any help from Mike beforehand. But I am sure he wouldnt mind showing me. Since I will pay him
I will check back later and see what you said your schedule looks like. I should be back tonight by 9am CST. And will check for ya
Yes, those metal pipes are referred to as the manifold set. They are also referred to as suction discharge hoses.
Nothing tricky at all.
For removing the belt, draw a diagram of the routing for when you reassemble. Don't rely on your memory. There is a spring loaded tensioner that you will connect a wrench to and swing it away from the belt. That will loosen it and allow you to remove the belt.
You don't need to completely remove the belt, just enough to lift it off the compressor
You can do it, I know you can.
I will be back on later tonight. Yell when you are back
I am just posting back here.
Where is the tensioner at? It sounds nice that I wont have to remove the belt all the way. Is there anything with that part of the job that will trip me up? I just dont want to get stuck without a belt on it, in my garage :-( With my experiences on the 280, I am leery of messing with it. It is like this everytime I do something this important to the functioning of the vehicle. But compare to removing the gas tank, and fuel pump, and fuel filter, the belt cant be too bad.
I know it may seem silly for me to worry about the belt, but if I am unsuccessful in getting it back on, then I will be in trouble.
Since I have never seen this done before on this kind of a vehicle, it seems intimidating to me. In fact, I saw Leon put the belt back onto the 280, and it was not easy. Then ended up getting out some huge 3 or 4 foot long jimmy bar, to put pressure on the alternator, just enough to move belt into place. I certainly dont want to do this the wrong way and break something.
Shoot me a picture of the belt area focusing on the passenger side of the front of the engine. I will mark up your picture and show you exactly what to do. You will be amazed how easy this will be!
Just to make you laugh, look at the times that I post back to you after you post to me. This time it was 3 minutes. Last time it was less than 10 too.
believe me, I am the luckiest person on the planet to have your help!!!!!!!!
Watch that first video, I am watching it now. I think its for a similar vehicle. And the second video wasnt great, and the third one only showed a few seconds that I saw.
Im going to keep watching that first video...and see if I can find one specifically for the blazer, or if you know of another similar chevy vehicle, so I can search youtube for that kind of vehcile too
I ordered that vFan System, and a super pack of all the other little sprayers, and canisters, rechragers, etc
so now I will have plenty of stuff to paint with for anything I need to do in the next few years!
OK, I watched that whole first video (without sound for right now)...and that engine looks similar to mine, but not exactly the same. Also I sprained my wrist two times in past week, and its my left hand too, and I left handed. So, I see in the video they are using their left arm and wrist pressure to push down the socket, as its inserted into the tensioner.
I am thinking having a second person to apply the pressure downwards on the tensioner, while I pulled the belt off the ac compressor, and left the belt in the rest of the places...assuming it will stay in place once I would remove the ac compressor? maybe it kind of falls loose after that? at least in some places. But as you mentioned, it might be alright for me to jsut leave it hang there while I proceed to remove and replace the a/c compressor
and then after remvoing a/c compressor, they could apply pressure on the tensioner, and I could easily slip the same belt right back up there on the new a/c compressor.
geeeze, could it really be that easy????
it cant be. there must be something difficult that is going to slow me down, like all these jobs do the first time.
im outta here....!!
Just wondered if you saw the videos yet that I mentioned above. Looks like you havent logged in yet today. I will check back later today. Gotta go get some lunch
look at my comments starting at 1245am. and especially that first video. I think it shows almost exactly what needs to be done for the serpentine belt, and even tho that other video with the kid in it, doesnt show a lot of great details, there is a point in the video, where it shows him sticking the compressor back on top of the housing. And he points out the 4 bolts. That looks similar to what I need to do also.
The first video should be close. I indicated the tensioner. You want to move it away from the belt. You will feel the belt loosen when you are going in the right direction.
We had a birthday party here today, that is why you didn't hear from me earlier.
yeah, that first video seemed to me, that must be close to what you were telling me. I have to try to remember to locate a youtube video first, that will save us a lot of time in the chat window !
so this job does seem easy enough.
I will be working on it possibly this wednesday...I took some time off this week.'
However, I was wondering about re-charging the A/C system. Since its probably all empty now, a year later after having it charged, and of course its no longer making cold air....is there a middle step that has to happen before recharging it?
Last year I bought those hoses/guages to recharge it, and have the can of refridgerant....but I was thinking there might need to be something else done, that only Mike can do, since he has the machines for dealing with A/C. The system is most likely already empty, I will find out as you already explained. But I cant believe its just as easy as recharging it with that hose/guage kit that I bought last year. So I just wanted to ask about that
Also, how do auto shops deal with the open pipes (once the ac compressor is taken off?) do they just close up the holes using duct tape or what?
The thing is, that it should not take more than a few minutes, once the old compressor is off, to have the new one bolted on. Its only the 4 bolts on the sides of it, and then the one big bolt for the a/c piping. So that should be fast to swap them (unless there is something else to get in my way). I know there are a few other things up there connected in or around the a/c compressor. Some kind of wiring maybe for throttle,,,etc....so I am hoping none of that stuff will interfere, and I can just unbolt the old one, pull it off, and stick the new one on there....in a matter of minutes or less. Then bolt it down
The middle step would be evacuating the system so it is void of all air. Once in a vacuum it will be ready to accept the new refrigerant on refrigerant oil.
I see, and that needs a special machine to do that.
if mike evacuated the system, can I bring it back home and fill it up with the can of refridgerant? We were going to do that last year, but I gave up on this ac project....too many other things to do. but right now its looking like I can do this soon. Except this part aboutevacuating the system
and how soon do I have after the system is evacuated of all air, to hookup my special guages/hoses and can of refrigerant? and what does it mean if we still have a small leak in the evaporator core? does that negate the process of evacuating all air?Or maybe since its leaking outward, that means it doesnt suck air back into the system because of a leak in the evaporator core?
Yes, if he evacuates the system it should remain in a vacuum until you fill it up.
If there is small leak in the evaporator, you will lose vacuum but you can still fill the system up but it will deplete over time.
Ok, that is good to know that he can just do that one part..... Then I will ask him to just evacuate the system (is that kind of the same thing as people evacuating a building?? -seems like the concept is exactly the same. And then no one (no air) remains after wards)
And tell him I will refill it myself (with your guidence of course). If all goes perfect, I may be needing your help more on this, several times between now and sunday. Are you going to be around? Im taking time off for a few days, so I can do this, and other stuff too
Yes, I will be around. I am moving my auto program to a new facility starting on the 3rd, so I will be a bit crazy, but I will keep looking for your posts.
oh that doesnt sound like fun!
Just cover the open ports on that manifold hose when you unbolt it and the rest will go easy.
is that how you pro's do it? I mean I am being serious...do U just cover up that open hole in the manifold with duct tape or what? :-)
or soemthing more serious to lock it down?
(cap it off I meant)
wait a second....OK, I went back and looked at the pictures. I see what you are saying, more clearly now that I looked at pictures again.
there is one big bolt that holds those two metal *hoses* onto the a/c compressor. And once I remove it, the pipe on each side will be open to the surrounding air, and those are the holes you are talking about covering up.
A small piece of duct tape will do the trick. Nothing crazy. I do it that way. All should, but most don't. If the air is not humid, it is not as urgent and if you left it open, the system will still work well. If the system is truly empty, then you should replace that accumulator too, but when you do, you want to have the system evacuated shortly after to keep it from getting saturated.
because once those pipes are off the compressor, it doesnt matter what happens to the compressor. Because it is no longer attached to anything on the A/C piping.
now there ya go, throwing a monkey wrench at me hehe
No monkey :)
whats this busienss about the accumulator? I mean, yes, I believe it has to be empty. It was filled and then stopped cooling in less than 3 weeks , last july
and that is where I left off with it
where is the accumlator?
is it that big shiny *can*
on the other side of the engine bay?
If there is even a little refrigerant it will be ok. if it is completely empty, then you want to replace it. It is that big silver canister that is on the passenger side near the firewall.
yeah OK, I seen that thing. I have pictures of it right here, from my truck
That has a desicant bag inside that absorbs moisture. If the system is empty, it is most likely saturated with moisture and will not do its desired function
It just unscrews, no big deal
uh huh suuuuuuuuuure
seriously tho, I am glad you are letting me know about it
I can plan ahead
I can only absorb a little info at a time, since I am having to always process so much new information every day
sometimes I feel like I have to split atoms
how much do those d-dad's cost? do you have any guesses?
there it is in left side
I beleive my blazer has all factory original parts, which isnt necesarily a good thing, since its 14 years old
I see some like copper? nuts on it, whats on the other side?
are we talking about just unscrewing some nuts on both sides, and then puttnig new one in place, and then threading them back on there?
I wish I just knew for sure, maybe I just need to do it no matter what....? just to be safe. Since my judgment may be off, and then can that damage the new compressor or other components, if the accumulator cant accumulate? I mean this is happened before too, like a season before last. This A/C hasnt worked for a few years now. And I am finally confident (barely by a whisker) to feel like attempting this now
I just got it charged last year, and then of course it stopped working in less than a month. Sadness.
cant that thing ever dry out? hmmmm
2 things. One, if it can't absorb moisture, you lose about 5 -10 degrees of cooling. 2nd, it collects debris in an internal filter. if that debris bag breaks, it could destroy the new compressor so it is worth replacing
U just convinced me....I mean especially since this system has been dead for a while, dont you think it must be messed up in that accumluator?
this makes me feel like the scene in star wars, where there was only one jedi, and then there were two of them :-O we should not made this bargin is what the little aliens said when they saw the two jedi's hehe
I thought I was getting out easy with just the serpentine belt deal, and the a/c compressor, and now the accumulator.....ieeeeeeeeeeeee
well, the brakes are still braking good, and the paint job is holding up, so I guess I might survive this one too
as always with something new, how much pressure do I use to tighten down the ac compressor and this accumulator nuts?
can I use a torque wrench? should I? or are you just going to say use the force?
I dont want to over-tighten and wreak the stuff, but if I under tigthen and it all leaks out, I wont be a happy jedi
another thought crossed my mind, which may stop me from doing this job....what happens if I really do have an evap core leak. I know thats a big job, and there is NO way I want to tackle that job. I might be able to do it, but it would take me FOREVER, and we need to use that vehicle a lot. I dont want to replace the compressor and accumulator, if having a leak in the evap core (or anywhere else for that matter) is going to end up doing more damage to these new compoents. I never thought of that until right now
Snug and then a little more. The unit is aluminum, so you will get a good feel for when it is tight enough
An evap repair is big. Removal of the dash board. Repair these items, and have the system tested after. If the evap is leaking, you can get your trusted shop to do it for you. You could do that too, but it is a big job. If you take your time, you could do it to, just expect it to take you a couple days or so
Oh no, it would take me WEEKS!!!! I know it :-(
I take things so carefully, mark eveything, study, read, learn....slower than a snail.
It makes me crazy I go that slow the first time on jobs, but I only want to do a job once right the first time.
so are you saying if it is confirmed I have evap core leak (I am already 99% sure I do)...if I used the system for 3 or 4 weeks until the system was out of refridgerant, is that going to end up damaging the system?
I really need to factor that into this whole equation. While I will save a LOT of money by doing the compressor and accumulator myself, I just dont know about spending another 1000$ or close to that, to have the evap core replaced. And then the car will probably rattle worse than it already does, like all old blazers do
because a lot of stuff will come out of the front of truck cabin
if the system goes completely empty then air will potentially damage the accumulator, that is all
hmmmm, once wife is working at home....I could theoretically do the evap core. but my gawd!!!!!!!!!! what am I in for, with that job? We are talking air bags, the entire dash??? and what about anything else that has to come out of, or off of the engine or inside of cabin!!!!!!!!!!!!??????????????? ughghghghggh. Ivan, I just dont know about that. Very imtimidating
(About what you just said: Im sorry to ask again, but if the system goes empty, wont accumulator fill up with mositure? and then gather debris? and then possibly damage the compressor? Or is that only going to happen with my current 14 year old accumlator and not the new one)
what a pain in the butt this whole A/C system is! But hey, at least its NOT THE ENGINE we are talking about. This is probably childs play to you, right?
how long would it take you on average to fix the compressor, accumulator ANd the evap core in a blazer like this? just curious....
That should take you no more that a couple of hours
what take a few hours? the evap core replacement????????????????????
or are you saying thats how long it will take you :-)
I would need a lot of your help, are you sure you want me to bother you about a large job like that? I dont ever want to be a pest to you.
For a professional, the evap replacement will take around 8 hours
Your compressor and drier, should take you around 2 hours
ok, yeah, I believe I could do that in 2 hours...
the evap core is scary to me, for a number of reasons. there is a LOT to do with that job. Stuff I have never done.
And I can only work on these projects very part time
I never gave you a chance to answer this one.... I will shut up and let you answer it :-)
only if it goes completely empty
but with a system we know is leaking....isnt that going to happen for sure?
I saw two different people using some kind of sniffer inside the cabin, down by the foot area of passenger side, and I swear they both said there was some kind of small leak.
I think U could hear the machine like ticking or something. I dont know if it was ticking that fast....maybe they were making it sound worse than it was? because they wanted a 2000$ a/c job
But whether its the compressor (which has a lot of gooey crud on it, which mike said is a sign of it leaking, and then I am almost sure two different people (including mike) said they thought the evap core was leaking...but maybe it wasnt leaking very much? I really dont know.Those tests happened too long ago. So as you said, i could just fix these things, and have it retested. And have it re-charged. worse case, if it starts losing coolness....I will have to just bit the bullet and have evap core fixed, or bite it hard and attempt to fix it myself
As long as there is pressure, air wont come in. When the system operates the lows side drops in pressure and the high side rises. No air will come in until the low side pulls to a vacuum instead of retaining pressure. So if the system gets real low, it can suck air, but not unless it is that low
You have given me a lot more to think about...I will think about it when I am awake again :-)
Sounds good. I will explain it in better detail if need be.
I think I just need to proceed and fix those accum + compressor, and then have it recharged..etc etc like we talked. And see how it functions after that
and also have Mike test it again, before I let it run dry, assuming it does run dry after fixing these two things
if it starts losing coolness,then I have to basically act fast....or ont too slow. So I dont let it get completely out while using it, and then cause me more pain than needed. I just dont think I will have time to do the evap core, and hate to think how much I might have to bother you with that job!
welll, as always, I really appreciate you help me learn all these things.
I take a while to learn tho....and I ask a LOT of questions
Anytime. Tomorrow I will upload a pic for you of the inside of the garage. I am moving stuff from the house garage into that garage, but I have 1 car inside at the moment
oh yeah!!!do that
is it finally done?
it took me months to get my garage in order after finishing everything
and moving everything out there, to both floors
I got the new blue paint for the datsun air dam. and it looks like a very good match, in the can anyway. But A/C work has to come first. Because its more important to a certain persons sanity
Of course I never talked to them about additives, etc....a friend picked it up for me, after they did the color match. so who knows about that
I finally finished the floor about a month ago. I am edging the sides with black and white checkered tile
WOW! thats gonna be soooooo nice!
I did a 19 foot chevy bowtie edged in gray epoxy in the middle
well at least it was CHEVY and not FORD!
found on road dead
Right, the funny thing to that is my first car was a 1971 Ford Torino GT. I am going to look at a 1971 Torino 500 on Wednesday and see if I can closely resemble my first car with it. There may be one Ford in the fleet
Its not a GT, but its close
What is funny, is this one has the same mileage as the one I bought in 1986
my neighbor had some kind of old grand torino...but not in good shape
geeze so it has low mileage
1972 began the Grand Torino. 1971 was more streamlined
welll maybe it was a torino, now I am not sure, but it was one of those
it was in bad shape....
Sort of. In 1968 the Torino was more boxy, but in nascar it was more aerodynamic than the streamlined 1970 and 71
he actually had two of them, both brown rust buckets
This one I'm going to look at is Brown and has a certain rust patina to it
and now they are gone, and he has a bad monte carlo from the 90's
I am hoping it is solid under it all
these had RUST HOLES
but I had a friends parents in the 80's that had a primo one. And his hot sister would take us for beverages
it was brown too and like new
take your pointed body hammer with, and see if you can poke some holes in it....hehehehe
Mine was Blue, and so will this one be if things work out
I seen them do that to some rusty cars on youtube
welllllllllllll sorry for keeping you on here too long again....sorrrrry
If it has holes, I am passing it up. If it has little tiny holes I'm still interested
No problem, I will look for you in the near future!
good luck! I hope it is a good one!
Me too. thanks
send me those pics of your garage!!!!!
im outta here......:-)
Hi Ivan. A few things...
1. I cant find any of those moisture bags. Is there something else I can use in addition to the duct tape over the holes on the tubes? I would buy something is there was something to buy to help make sure no mositure gets in there....
2. I watched another youtube video about replacing an A/C compressor. He said he had to add like 4 ounces of oil? because it was dry. The oil looked green color to me?
3. Do I need, will I get new orings? And if so, what kind of oil/lube do I or should I put on them when replacing with the new ones
yeah, I will do accum last, but knowing me, it will end up taking me a few hours just to do that. Something will be difficult. If not, I will be happily surprised ;-L
So are all new (not refurb) sent out dry? I didnt even know they took oil. Geeze that could have ended badly for my new compressor. Im a noob, I wouldnt even know that. Its also why I am just taking my time :-)))
I can buy refrigerant oil at oriellys or any autoparts store? I hope the new unit has a capcity listed on it, because I have no idea how much they take otherwise. He said 4 ounces, but I am sure they are all different capacites!
Thanks again, happy 4th! ivan!
Do I need to lube the o rings?
Can you recommend any brand to buy or any brands to stay away from for the compressor?
Sorry, got some more questions for you, as I am sizing up this A/C job!
1. how often would the oil run out of the compressor? is there any way to check the level of it, without taking it off?
2. What kind of dye are we talking about, and I am curious why it needs dye? to look for leaks or what? is it dye you can see with black light? I have one of those in a kit that I bought when adding dye into engine oil in blazer one time.
3. What do I lube the orings with? I have all kinds of oil and stuff, white litium grease, etc...but I am not sure what is the proper thing to use for orings? I hope the instructions with the A/C compressor tell me exactly how much to add :-) so I can do it right the first time.
4. I was out looking over the A/C compressor and accumlator 2night. And had a question about the accumlator. There are those copper colored nuts on the front side of it, but I dont see anyway to unscrew it from the back side. I think the nuts holding it into place in the back are inside of a plastic looking housing. I think maybe that is the fan?? that is in the big blazk plastic housing sitting behind it. I see 5 or 6 smaller bolts holding that big black plastic housing in place. I imagine you will tell me, I have to take that off too :-O, so that I can access the nuts on the backside of the accumulator. hmmmmmmmm
5. Are you saying I put the same oil into the accumulator??? ughghghgh, this keeps getting more and more complex, the more I learn about it. If so, where do I put oil into accumlator? I have no idea on that one. Are you saying one ounce, two ounces, etc??? This is making me nervous now.
6. A side note, I also noticed a little port called evap port towards back of engine, right in the middle of the engine bay near the firewall. What is that for?
7. Can you send me a link to the type of oil I should be looking for, I want to make sure I get the right stuff, because I had no idea I needed that until the dude in the video showed himself dumping 4 ounces into it. In fact, I dont even know where to pour oil into the compressor. I dont really see any place to do that. So that is yet something Else I have to ask about.
I am sorry I have to ask so many questions about this, but I am a lot more nervous now about doing this job, because it is involving a lot more than I originally realized.
I think I can do it, but I just need to be 100% sure about these things. I certainly do NOT want to screw anything up.
Thank you once again!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks for all the info!
hmmmm I was nervous before, and then after all our chatting and watching more youtube videos, I was OK with the job, and now this oil business is making me nervous again. Sorry, I cant help it. I am not sure I understand the exact procedure to get oil into the compressor nor the accumulator. Since I have never seen them off a vehicle before.
So you are saying I should dab a little refrigerant oil with a finger?
hmmmm I didnt see anyway to remove anything from back side of accumulator. It looks like what is on the back top side of it, is permanent, and not movable. I will have to take some pictures of it, and wait to see what you can show me about it. At this point, I just dont understand how to do anything with the backside of that accumlator. There is a metal tube running out of the top backside of it, and it looks like it cannot be unscrewed there. Which is why I thought it had to be done somewhere else, like further back inside that black box (fan housing??/evap core?).
At least, I understand now why the dye is important. I see its the same purpose as engine oil dye. :-)
Also, sorry I am not sure what you mean by the 'accumulator is clamped'
Ivan, I know as you have tuaght me before, I can do this, but I just have several more issues and questions I have to clarify before I will do this job.
Also, one last thing, I found several good step by step procedure for doing this job, and now I understand a lot better what words to use, when I take it to a garage to have them evacuate the a/c system, then apply a vaccum to it, and I imagine it will hold and OK vaccum but not perfect. That is what happened before. It held vaccum OK, just maybe not perfect. And after they see that vaccum hold up, then they can (or maybe I will do that part with your help) recharge the system. Since I have all the equipment and refridgerant I bought last summer. I am stil unsure about doing that part. I would like too, but as you can see, for a first time noob perfectionist, this job is multiplying...
I stuck a 3/8" socket wrench into that hole in the spring/tensioner, and I saw how it moved. It actually seemed fairly easy ( I sprained my wrist and was not sure if I could apply enough pressure or not, but it didnt seem that bad at all to move it. So I think I should be OK with that part, and I may have a helper to just slide the belt off the compressor at that point of the job) . So at least I know that part shoul be really easy. And I will NOT remove the whole belt. I will try to be very careful and just remove only what I have to....I hope I can accomplish that. There is a digram on the engine bay, of how the belt runs throughout the system. So if it did come off more than expected, I can see the diagram.
yeah, I cant believe you are still going!!!! its VERY late. I was up way past 345am the other night, since I m on vaction. Im at my PC of course, as usual. Working on some of my cool stuff.
sorry things are so crazy for you right now, the good thing, this too will pass :-)
Speaking of crazy things, I was watching new episodes of Mike and Edd. But Edd did something that made me crazy wondering about the status of the timing chain on my blazer. 114,000 miles and its never been done. I REEEEEEEEEEEEallllly dont want to pay to have that done, I know its expensive, and there is no way I am doing that job. I have my limitations still being a noob. I am hoping I can drive a while longer without the job. But 14 year old truck and 1140,000 miles. We put maybe 3000 to 4000 miles a year on it, and its going to drop down to more like 2000 or 3000 starting soon.
I dont think you know how happy you just made me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that is frigging awesome to know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That is awesome to hear about the 94 blazer. I just love my blazer a whole lot!!!!!! When I saw the paint job I did, when walking out of a store today, it just made me smile real big!!!! you cannot even tell, unless you know what to look for!!!!!!
the more I learn and work on the 99 blazer, the better it seems. I mean, its becoming easier for me to understand what is what in the engine bay, and not overwhelming like 1 year ago. The 280, I can identify pretty much everything in the entire engine, and tell you mostly what it all does. Little by little I am learning the blazer, and it is VERY exciting to know I am becoming more confortable with it. So when other things go wrong, I will have more knowledge...it all builds on itself, and learning about cars has made me more confident when dealing with other projects in my life.
THANK YOU ! again for helping me so much.
I will stop sending messages now. I have to think over all the stuff you told me, and I will be back on here tomorrow sometime. I dont know exactly when I am gonig to start the a/c project. But since its not going to be that hot for at least 10 more days, I may wait until next weekend anyway. That will give me time to gather all the parts and materials, and make sure I have a 100% solid plan, that I can see in my head of exactly what to do.
I thought of something else....to ask.
This may sound like a dumb question, but lets say, I have replaced everything, and am ready to have the system evacuated, and then recharged. Is it OK to start up the blazer and drive it somewhere, even though there is no refridgerant in it?
Im gonig to go take a few pictures of the accumulator. If you have time to briefly discuss that part of the job, I may just proceed and work on it today and probably tomorrow, if it drags into another day. I will be uploading pics in 5 to 10 minutes. I still dont understand how to removed accumulator. So that is why I want to upload the pics....
Here is a picture that may be similar. Note the screw that clamps the wrap around clamp that surrounds the accumulator.
have pics will be uploading
momentarily, I have to mark them up first
that is a pdf file, click it to open, or right click and do a save as.
Ok, I think that is all the pics I wanted to markup and upload.
Look at my notes in these pics.
Ok, I think that is all the pics I wanted to markup and upload.
1. Also, you said this "Then rotate the compressor clutch a little and it will move within the compressor." 2. DO I just turn the pulley wheel, and rotate it a little? Like what a 1/4 turn, or 1/2 turn or 2 or 3 fullturns??? not sure how much you meant to rotate it
3. Are you saying I need to dump the oil into the accumlator, like when I have the accumulator turned a little sideways in my hands, before I bolt it back on? I dont know how I can dump oil into the accumlator without making a mess???
4. Since there will be two holes on top of the a/c compressor, am I supposed to pour it into one side or the other, or both?
I think that does it finally for all my questions, and I am about to go buy all the parts finally!!!!
PSWhat bolt did you mean??? I still dont understand how I can remove the accumlator? without removing both of those big bolts that go into and out of the top of it??? sorry
I went and got the new compressor and new accum. There are some instructions with it...I will mention a few more things before I decide to turn wrenches on this today
oing to add pictures now. I posted a Q on the nissan, to see if we can chat now.
the pics are large, U may have to scroll out?
will upload more pics here, this system is acting flaky, so first i have to post this message, and then go back and edit my post, to upload pictures, it keeps acting that way. This software of theirs is kind of broken here.
Hi Ivan, OK dont respond to this part of this message, otherwise, i have to keep posting a new message, its broken :-(((((( I am trying to upload new pics. I should be done in 1 minute or less
OK, I think thats it for pictures. Now, if you have a few minutes, can you answer that other new question. So we can try a chat. Will make it a lot faster I think to finish this out.
Ok I am done I hope
I did request you on a new chat on nissan a little while ago. I guess you must not see it,. maybe thats broken today too?
I had to goto sears to get a few things I needed. I got both sides of the accumulator to move, which I wanted to make sure I could do before anything else. I have a question tho....on the ac compressor that is currently on the blazer, I can turn the front plate around back and forth. But on the new one, it doesnt move? Is that normal. The reason I ask is because I thought that center plate that is on the very front part of the compressor, is what I thought I will be moving around a few full turns to put in the oil. Well It doesnt even budge on the new one. I didnt try turning it with a wrench yet, I see a nut buried inside of it, I think I might have to use that nut to be able to turn it around ....(and am I supposed to spin it clockwise or counterclockwise or doesnt it matter?)
well I got all the needed bolts to loosen a little, so that means I can take everything off that needs to come off. BUt I remove the rubber stopper from the top of the new compressor and I still cannot move that clutch at all by hand,. I stuck a 1/2 socket on the nut inside of the center of that pulley/clutch area, and was able to turn it both ways. Then I realized maybe I just loosened it by turning it one way or the other. Now what to do? Shouldnt it turn by hand? I dont understand why the other one is so easy to spin around, and the new one wont budge except with out a socket on it, hellllllllllllp
If I cant turn it around easily, then I dont know how to load it up with oil. And I am now worried that I shouldnt havent turned that center nut both ways,. ughghghgh What do I need to do to make sure its OK? I mean, if I turned it enough one way or the other, isnt it going to just let the whole pulley pop right off there?
Thanks for info. I am curious tho, is it possible to turn that nut off there? I dont know how it works exactly since its inside of something that is always spinning around and around and around....but I will turn it as you said,m clockwise, and peek down in there, and see if I can see anything moving around,. Its not going to hurt turning it a few times, without any oil? Or should I just not turn it until its mounted? Im just making sure I understand everthing now that I am out here loosening things up...
I didnt turn anything far enough to let any air in or out of the system, just made sure I could turn them a little...
well, I know I dont even have to be messing with it, while its still off the vehicle. So Maybe I should just proceed to install it and stop messing with it now.
I was just really worried that I loosened that nut, when I should not have. Is it possible to turn that nut, right off that center bolt?
If thats true, then which way tightens it, I am having a hardtime understanding how it should work to tighten it back up, in case I loosened it already...?
ok whew, that makes me feel better. I didnt do anything that could have loosened it, I mean I didnt turn it that hard., Just a little each way.
I would rather just install it soon, if I dont poop out first 2night. I would rather dump the oil down there, after its already attached. Otherwise I can see making a mess of oil....
its like my own little comedy show going on. OK, so I tried for real this time, to pull on the tensioner, and I can see it hits the tab, and wont or cant go any further. Well, it does loosen up the belt all around, but it doesnt seem to loosen it enough, so I can just pull it off, past the top of the compressor. Whats the trick to removing the belt off the compressor? Do I have to also remove it from the big pulley thats below it?.
hehehe....im almost ready to do it. but gotta get this belt off there. I dont want this belt to be a problem. Now I see how easy it easy to loosen it up, and also let the big wrench go, that I have holding it loose. But I am just a little concered that there is going to be some crazy trick to getting it back on.
Maybe I just have to also remove it from the big pulley thats right under it???
well I got the belt off, had no choice but to slip it off more than I wanted. Then I saw how the big socket wrench I was using to hold the tensioner, wanted to go a LOT further down into the engine bay. I figured that wasnt good, so I basically tied off the wrench that is inside the tensioner 3/8" hole, into the body frame. I just didnt know what to do with it, and didnt want to relase it all the way. So its OK now, its not going to move until I want it to. So I can begine work and its not hardly 11pm....
i decide I am going to start on it in the morning, I have all tools I need, I have the belt off far enough, I loosened all the bolts holding compressor onto frame strcuture, and I just touched the other connection just enough to know I can move them without problems as you said I would be able to, then i snugged them back a little bit, so basically I have everything reayd now for the job. It SHOULD be easy from here on out. But I want to start in the morning, so I dont make some stupid problem by being tired.
Thanks again for getting me this far. its exciting. I just hope in the end of all this, my a/c works :-) I realize it could be leaking. But the main point of this whole exercise was becquse I dont know the compressor to explode since the bearing are going bad, from the bad squealing it does once in a while,.