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Ivan
Ivan, ASE Certified Master Technician
Category: Nissan
Satisfied Customers: 4870
Experience:  ASE Master Tech w/ 20+ years in the field. Self employed for 9 years. Member of AUTOLAB radio show.
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Nissan/Datsun: Hi Ivan, Lets talk about the A/C job now on

Customer Question

Hi Ivan, Lets talk about the A/C job now on this thread. I will be offline for a little while today, but back on this afternoon sometmie maybe around 2 or 3pm
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Nissan
Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.

Ivan : Cool! I'm in Pa right now, I'll log on as soon as I get hom
Ivan : Home
Ivan :

Ok, I'm home. I saw the pics. Yell for me when you see this

Customer:

im back

Customer:

I found out late in the afternoon that we had a grand national car show in our town today. Spent 3+ hours looking at all the cars. Must have been 500 to 750 cars there. The most I have ever seen at a car show. I will upload some of my favorites. And out of all of those cars, there was a 240Z!!!!!!! from 1972. perfectly restored. The guy was from california. And this was his third z car. He bought this 240 from Jay Leno, so he said.

Customer:

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Customer:

I am going out to garage for about 15min to check something on a vehicle. Then I will pop back on here and see if you are online. thanks

Ivan :

I can't wait until I have time to get back into the car show scene. It has been too long ...

Ivan :

Jay Leno's former car...awesome

Ivan :

Wow, beautiful cars!

Customer:

im back

Customer:

sorry took me longer than I thought

Customer:

most of the cars all won some kind of awards.

Customer:

I have never seen so many different cars, and many many cars have never heard of

Customer:

one of my fav cars was the red mercedes 300SL parked next to the Z car

Customer:

look how tiny the datsun looks compared to other cars by it, which are not really that big eitehr

Customer:

it rained for like 1.5 hours out of 3 hours. But not a lot of rain thankfully, just a little. Some of those cars have never been wet once since restored. LIke 20 or 30 years ago some of the owners told us that

Customer:

**********************************

Customer:

That datsun is in several commercials (and on youtube the owner said) for a nissan 240 Z 40th anniversary

Customer:

and was also in a few ads that nissan did.

Customer:

he showed us the ads.... and I am going to look for the video on youtube

Customer:

***********************

Customer:

Well I will be here a little longer, then I am going to meet some family at a triple A baseball game for a few hours 2night

Customer:

heres a URL for ya http://vimeo.com/z1motorsports/2011znationals

Ivan :

Im back too :)

Ivan :

A 300 SL from the mid 50s with Gullwing doors is one of the most beautiful cars ever made

Customer:

yeah!

Customer:

I never seen one like that before....and it was cool it was next to 240z

Customer:

so do you have a little time to chat about the A/C compressor?

Ivan :

Yes, In a few minutes I have to check the codes in someone's car, then run for dinner, but for now we are good

Customer:

ok

Customer:

maybe we will just chat for 5 minutes or so?

Ivan :

So on the truck, you would evacuate the system. Then remove the one bolt on that hose assembly that is connected to the compressor

Ivan :

Then tape up the two openings in that hose assembly to keep the air from saturating the accumulator

Ivan :

Then you would unplug that one connector on the front and if it has a pressure sensor on the back, unplug that one too

Ivan :

Then the belt

Ivan :

Finally the four bolts and off it will come

Customer:

the a/c doesnt produce any cold air so I would assume its all empty now. it stopped being cold last year after 3 to 4 weeks

Customer:

3 to 4 weeks after charging it...

Ivan :

it may be very low. Loosen that bolt on the hose assembly slowly and see if it hisses out with force.

Customer:

there is goop on the compressor and Mike thought it was leaking and it has bad bearings too, because it sqeals sometimes...

Ivan :

A little hiss means it was almost empty. But if you have smoke from the refrigerant escaping, then you still have refrigerant there

Customer:

he heard it squealing once luckily when I was there

Customer:

its original GM part from 1999

Ivan :

I will be back. I have been ordered to get the food

Customer:

:-)

Ivan :

It is most likely leaking. It is common

Customer:

Ok, lets just catch up later....what time might U have?

Customer:

2night, tomorrow? later than that?

Customer:

PS when you say hose assembly, U do mean those metal pipes on top of it right?

Customer:

talk to ya later! thanks

Customer:

*****************************

Customer:

Based on what you said, it basically sounds really easy to take off, am I wrong? There are no gotcha's, tricky things to look out for , etc???

Customer:

I have never taken a belt off before on any vehicle for that matter. So that worries me. Just because I have never done it. Now, I know for 1000% sure to make a diagram of exactly how it goes on there. So there will be no mistake to re-install it. But I tried to put a new a/c belt on the 280, and failed. It seemed impossible. And the belt on the blazer is really on there tight. I am sure, like it should be.

Customer:

So I believe if the a/c compressor is as easy as it sounds to remove and reinstall a new one (not a refurb), then my issues will be with the belt.

Customer:

I think what I might do, is take it to mikes shop and pay him for his time to show me, and let me remove it and replace it, under his guidence. That way, once I have done it at his garage, I can do it again a LOT easier in my own garage. For when I need to do it for real, after replacing the a/c compressor. And then he has all the stuff he needs to recharge it.

Customer:

But if you really think I can do the belt without having to stand on one toe, with my head tilted just the right angle with one eye partially close and a 40 pound crowbar in my hands....then maybe I have a chance??? to just do it without any help from Mike beforehand. But I am sure he wouldnt mind showing me. Since I will pay him

Customer:

********************************

Customer:

I will check back later and see what you said your schedule looks like. I should be back tonight by 9am CST. And will check for ya

Ivan :

I'm back

Ivan :

Yes, those metal pipes are referred to as the manifold set. They are also referred to as suction discharge hoses.

Ivan :

Nothing tricky at all.

Ivan :

For removing the belt, draw a diagram of the routing for when you reassemble. Don't rely on your memory. There is a spring loaded tensioner that you will connect a wrench to and swing it away from the belt. That will loosen it and allow you to remove the belt.

Ivan :

You don't need to completely remove the belt, just enough to lift it off the compressor

Ivan :

You can do it, I know you can.

Ivan :

I will be back on later tonight. Yell when you are back

Customer:

I am just posting back here.

Customer:

Where is the tensioner at? It sounds nice that I wont have to remove the belt all the way. Is there anything with that part of the job that will trip me up? I just dont want to get stuck without a belt on it, in my garage :-( With my experiences on the 280, I am leery of messing with it. It is like this everytime I do something this important to the functioning of the vehicle. But compare to removing the gas tank, and fuel pump, and fuel filter, the belt cant be too bad.

Customer:

I know it may seem silly for me to worry about the belt, but if I am unsuccessful in getting it back on, then I will be in trouble.

Customer:

Since I have never seen this done before on this kind of a vehicle, it seems intimidating to me. In fact, I saw Leon put the belt back onto the 280, and it was not easy. Then ended up getting out some huge 3 or 4 foot long jimmy bar, to put pressure on the alternator, just enough to move belt into place. I certainly dont want to do this the wrong way and break something.

Ivan :

Shoot me a picture of the belt area focusing on the passenger side of the front of the engine. I will mark up your picture and show you exactly what to do. You will be amazed how easy this will be!

Ivan :

Just to make you laugh, look at the times that I post back to you after you post to me. This time it was 3 minutes. Last time it was less than 10 too.

Customer:

:-)

Customer:

believe me, I am the luckiest person on the planet to have your help!!!!!!!!

Customer:

Watch that first video, I am watching it now. I think its for a similar vehicle. And the second video wasnt great, and the third one only showed a few seconds that I saw.

Customer:

Im going to keep watching that first video...and see if I can find one specifically for the blazer, or if you know of another similar chevy vehicle, so I can search youtube for that kind of vehcile too

Customer:

thanks!!!!!!!!!

Customer:

I ordered that vFan System, and a super pack of all the other little sprayers, and canisters, rechragers, etc

Customer:

so now I will have plenty of stuff to paint with for anything I need to do in the next few years!

Customer:

******************

Customer:

OK, I watched that whole first video (without sound for right now)...and that engine looks similar to mine, but not exactly the same. Also I sprained my wrist two times in past week, and its my left hand too, and I left handed. So, I see in the video they are using their left arm and wrist pressure to push down the socket, as its inserted into the tensioner.

Customer:

I am thinking having a second person to apply the pressure downwards on the tensioner, while I pulled the belt off the ac compressor, and left the belt in the rest of the places...assuming it will stay in place once I would remove the ac compressor? maybe it kind of falls loose after that? at least in some places. But as you mentioned, it might be alright for me to jsut leave it hang there while I proceed to remove and replace the a/c compressor

Customer:

and then after remvoing a/c compressor, they could apply pressure on the tensioner, and I could easily slip the same belt right back up there on the new a/c compressor.

Customer:

geeeze, could it really be that easy????

Customer:

it cant be. there must be something difficult that is going to slow me down, like all these jobs do the first time.

Customer:

im outta here....!!

Customer:

********************

Customer:

Im back

Customer:

Just wondered if you saw the videos yet that I mentioned above. Looks like you havent logged in yet today. I will check back later today. Gotta go get some lunch

Customer:

look at my comments starting at 1245am. and especially that first video. I think it shows almost exactly what needs to be done for the serpentine belt, and even tho that other video with the kid in it, doesnt show a lot of great details, there is a point in the video, where it shows him sticking the compressor back on top of the housing. And he points out the 4 bolts. That looks similar to what I need to do also.

Ivan :

The first video should be close. I indicated the tensioner. You want to move it away from the belt. You will feel the belt loosen when you are going in the right direction.

Ivan :

We had a birthday party here today, that is why you didn't hear from me earlier.

Customer:

Hi Ivan

Customer:

yeah, that first video seemed to me, that must be close to what you were telling me. I have to try to remember to locate a youtube video first, that will save us a lot of time in the chat window !

Customer:

so this job does seem easy enough.

Customer:

I will be working on it possibly this wednesday...I took some time off this week.'

Customer:

However, I was wondering about re-charging the A/C system. Since its probably all empty now, a year later after having it charged, and of course its no longer making cold air....is there a middle step that has to happen before recharging it?

Customer:

Last year I bought those hoses/guages to recharge it, and have the can of refridgerant....but I was thinking there might need to be something else done, that only Mike can do, since he has the machines for dealing with A/C. The system is most likely already empty, I will find out as you already explained. But I cant believe its just as easy as recharging it with that hose/guage kit that I bought last year. So I just wanted to ask about that

Customer:

Also, how do auto shops deal with the open pipes (once the ac compressor is taken off?) do they just close up the holes using duct tape or what?

Customer:

The thing is, that it should not take more than a few minutes, once the old compressor is off, to have the new one bolted on. Its only the 4 bolts on the sides of it, and then the one big bolt for the a/c piping. So that should be fast to swap them (unless there is something else to get in my way). I know there are a few other things up there connected in or around the a/c compressor. Some kind of wiring maybe for throttle,,,etc....so I am hoping none of that stuff will interfere, and I can just unbolt the old one, pull it off, and stick the new one on there....in a matter of minutes or less. Then bolt it down

Ivan :

The middle step would be evacuating the system so it is void of all air. Once in a vacuum it will be ready to accept the new refrigerant on refrigerant oil.

Customer:

I see, and that needs a special machine to do that.

Customer:

if mike evacuated the system, can I bring it back home and fill it up with the can of refridgerant? We were going to do that last year, but I gave up on this ac project....too many other things to do. but right now its looking like I can do this soon. Except this part aboutevacuating the system

Customer:

and how soon do I have after the system is evacuated of all air, to hookup my special guages/hoses and can of refrigerant? and what does it mean if we still have a small leak in the evaporator core? does that negate the process of evacuating all air?Or maybe since its leaking outward, that means it doesnt suck air back into the system because of a leak in the evaporator core?

Ivan :

Yes, if he evacuates the system it should remain in a vacuum until you fill it up.

Ivan :

If there is small leak in the evaporator, you will lose vacuum but you can still fill the system up but it will deplete over time.

Customer:

Ok, that is good to know that he can just do that one part..... Then I will ask him to just evacuate the system (is that kind of the same thing as people evacuating a building?? -seems like the concept is exactly the same. And then no one (no air) remains after wards)

Customer:

And tell him I will refill it myself (with your guidence of course). If all goes perfect, I may be needing your help more on this, several times between now and sunday. Are you going to be around? Im taking time off for a few days, so I can do this, and other stuff too

Customer:

Thanks

Ivan :

Yes, I will be around. I am moving my auto program to a new facility starting on the 3rd, so I will be a bit crazy, but I will keep looking for your posts.

Customer:

oh that doesnt sound like fun!

Ivan :

Just cover the open ports on that manifold hose when you unbolt it and the rest will go easy.

Customer:

is that how you pro's do it? I mean I am being serious...do U just cover up that open hole in the manifold with duct tape or what? :-)

Customer:

or soemthing more serious to lock it down?

Customer:

(cap it off I meant)

Customer:

wait a second....OK, I went back and looked at the pictures. I see what you are saying, more clearly now that I looked at pictures again.

Customer:

there is one big bolt that holds those two metal *hoses* onto the a/c compressor. And once I remove it, the pipe on each side will be open to the surrounding air, and those are the holes you are talking about covering up.

Ivan :

A small piece of duct tape will do the trick. Nothing crazy. I do it that way. All should, but most don't. If the air is not humid, it is not as urgent and if you left it open, the system will still work well. If the system is truly empty, then you should replace that accumulator too, but when you do, you want to have the system evacuated shortly after to keep it from getting saturated.

Customer:

because once those pipes are off the compressor, it doesnt matter what happens to the compressor. Because it is no longer attached to anything on the A/C piping.

Ivan :

Right

Customer:

now there ya go, throwing a monkey wrench at me hehe

Ivan :

No monkey :)

Customer:

whats this busienss about the accumulator? I mean, yes, I believe it has to be empty. It was filled and then stopped cooling in less than 3 weeks , last july

Customer:

and that is where I left off with it

Customer:

where is the accumlator?

Customer:

is it that big shiny *can*

Customer:

on the other side of the engine bay?

Ivan :

If there is even a little refrigerant it will be ok. if it is completely empty, then you want to replace it. It is that big silver canister that is on the passenger side near the firewall.

Customer:

ieeeeeeeeeeeee

Customer:

yeah OK, I seen that thing. I have pictures of it right here, from my truck

Ivan :

That has a desicant bag inside that absorbs moisture. If the system is empty, it is most likely saturated with moisture and will not do its desired function

Ivan :

It just unscrews, no big deal

Customer:

uh huh suuuuuuuuuure

Customer:

monkey wrench

Customer:

ooooff-da

Customer:

seriously tho, I am glad you are letting me know about it

Customer:

I can plan ahead

Customer:

I can only absorb a little info at a time, since I am having to always process so much new information every day

Customer:

sometimes I feel like I have to split atoms

Customer:

how much do those d-dad's cost? do you have any guesses?

Customer:

do-dad's

Ivan :

About $40-$50

Customer:

Blazer Engine
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Customer:

there it is in left side

Ivan :

yes

Customer:

I beleive my blazer has all factory original parts, which isnt necesarily a good thing, since its 14 years old

Customer:

I see some like copper? nuts on it, whats on the other side?

Ivan :

definitely

Customer:

are we talking about just unscrewing some nuts on both sides, and then puttnig new one in place, and then threading them back on there?

Ivan :

yes exactly

Customer:

hmmmm

Customer:

I wish I just knew for sure, maybe I just need to do it no matter what....? just to be safe. Since my judgment may be off, and then can that damage the new compressor or other components, if the accumulator cant accumulate? I mean this is happened before too, like a season before last. This A/C hasnt worked for a few years now. And I am finally confident (barely by a whisker) to feel like attempting this now

Customer:

I just got it charged last year, and then of course it stopped working in less than a month. Sadness.

Customer:

cant that thing ever dry out? hmmmm

Ivan :

2 things. One, if it can't absorb moisture, you lose about 5 -10 degrees of cooling. 2nd, it collects debris in an internal filter. if that debris bag breaks, it could destroy the new compressor so it is worth replacing

Customer:

ieeeeeeeeeeeee

Customer:

U just convinced me....I mean especially since this system has been dead for a while, dont you think it must be messed up in that accumluator?

Customer:

this makes me feel like the scene in star wars, where there was only one jedi, and then there were two of them :-O we should not made this bargin is what the little aliens said when they saw the two jedi's hehe

Ivan :

funny

Customer:

I thought I was getting out easy with just the serpentine belt deal, and the a/c compressor, and now the accumulator.....ieeeeeeeeeeeee

Customer:

well, the brakes are still braking good, and the paint job is holding up, so I guess I might survive this one too

Customer:

as always with something new, how much pressure do I use to tighten down the ac compressor and this accumulator nuts?

Customer:

can I use a torque wrench? should I? or are you just going to say use the force?

Customer:

I dont want to over-tighten and wreak the stuff, but if I under tigthen and it all leaks out, I wont be a happy jedi

Customer:

*********************

Customer:

another thought crossed my mind, which may stop me from doing this job....what happens if I really do have an evap core leak. I know thats a big job, and there is NO way I want to tackle that job. I might be able to do it, but it would take me FOREVER, and we need to use that vehicle a lot. I dont want to replace the compressor and accumulator, if having a leak in the evap core (or anywhere else for that matter) is going to end up doing more damage to these new compoents. I never thought of that until right now

Ivan :

Snug and then a little more. The unit is aluminum, so you will get a good feel for when it is tight enough

Customer:

(OK)_

Ivan :

An evap repair is big. Removal of the dash board. Repair these items, and have the system tested after. If the evap is leaking, you can get your trusted shop to do it for you. You could do that too, but it is a big job. If you take your time, you could do it to, just expect it to take you a couple days or so

Customer:

Oh no, it would take me WEEKS!!!! I know it :-(

Customer:

I take things so carefully, mark eveything, study, read, learn....slower than a snail.

Customer:

It makes me crazy I go that slow the first time on jobs, but I only want to do a job once right the first time.

Customer:

so are you saying if it is confirmed I have evap core leak (I am already 99% sure I do)...if I used the system for 3 or 4 weeks until the system was out of refridgerant, is that going to end up damaging the system?

Customer:

I really need to factor that into this whole equation. While I will save a LOT of money by doing the compressor and accumulator myself, I just dont know about spending another 1000$ or close to that, to have the evap core replaced. And then the car will probably rattle worse than it already does, like all old blazers do

Customer:

because a lot of stuff will come out of the front of truck cabin

Ivan :

if the system goes completely empty then air will potentially damage the accumulator, that is all

Customer:

hmmmm, once wife is working at home....I could theoretically do the evap core. but my gawd!!!!!!!!!! what am I in for, with that job? We are talking air bags, the entire dash??? and what about anything else that has to come out of, or off of the engine or inside of cabin!!!!!!!!!!!!??????????????? ughghghghggh. Ivan, I just dont know about that. Very imtimidating

Customer:

(About what you just said: Im sorry to ask again, but if the system goes empty, wont accumulator fill up with mositure? and then gather debris? and then possibly damage the compressor? Or is that only going to happen with my current 14 year old accumlator and not the new one)

Customer:

what a pain in the butt this whole A/C system is! But hey, at least its NOT THE ENGINE we are talking about. This is probably childs play to you, right?

Customer:

how long would it take you on average to fix the compressor, accumulator ANd the evap core in a blazer like this? just curious....

Ivan :

That should take you no more that a couple of hours

Customer:

what take a few hours? the evap core replacement????????????????????

Customer:

or are you saying thats how long it will take you :-)

Customer:

I would need a lot of your help, are you sure you want me to bother you about a large job like that? I dont ever want to be a pest to you.

Ivan :

For a professional, the evap replacement will take around 8 hours

Ivan :

Your compressor and drier, should take you around 2 hours

Customer:

ok, yeah, I believe I could do that in 2 hours...

Customer:

the evap core is scary to me, for a number of reasons. there is a LOT to do with that job. Stuff I have never done.

Customer:

And I can only work on these projects very part time

Customer:

I never gave you a chance to answer this one.... I will shut up and let you answer it :-)

Customer:

(About what you just said: Im sorry to ask again, but if the system goes empty, wont accumulator fill up with mositure? and then gather debris? and then possibly damage the compressor? Or is that only going to happen with my current 14 year old accumlator and not the new one)


Ivan :

only if it goes completely empty

Customer:

but with a system we know is leaking....isnt that going to happen for sure?

Customer:

I saw two different people using some kind of sniffer inside the cabin, down by the foot area of passenger side, and I swear they both said there was some kind of small leak.

Customer:

I think U could hear the machine like ticking or something. I dont know if it was ticking that fast....maybe they were making it sound worse than it was? because they wanted a 2000$ a/c job

Customer:

But whether its the compressor (which has a lot of gooey crud on it, which mike said is a sign of it leaking, and then I am almost sure two different people (including mike) said they thought the evap core was leaking...but maybe it wasnt leaking very much? I really dont know.Those tests happened too long ago. So as you said, i could just fix these things, and have it retested. And have it re-charged. worse case, if it starts losing coolness....I will have to just bit the bullet and have evap core fixed, or bite it hard and attempt to fix it myself

Ivan :

As long as there is pressure, air wont come in. When the system operates the lows side drops in pressure and the high side rises. No air will come in until the low side pulls to a vacuum instead of retaining pressure. So if the system gets real low, it can suck air, but not unless it is that low

Customer:

You have given me a lot more to think about...I will think about it when I am awake again :-)

Ivan :

Sounds good. I will explain it in better detail if need be.

Customer:

I think I just need to proceed and fix those accum + compressor, and then have it recharged..etc etc like we talked. And see how it functions after that

Customer:

and also have Mike test it again, before I let it run dry, assuming it does run dry after fixing these two things

Customer:

if it starts losing coolness,then I have to basically act fast....or ont too slow. So I dont let it get completely out while using it, and then cause me more pain than needed. I just dont think I will have time to do the evap core, and hate to think how much I might have to bother you with that job!

Ivan :

sounds good

Customer:

welll, as always, I really appreciate you help me learn all these things.

Customer:

I take a while to learn tho....and I ask a LOT of questions

Ivan :

Anytime. Tomorrow I will upload a pic for you of the inside of the garage. I am moving stuff from the house garage into that garage, but I have 1 car inside at the moment

Customer:

oh yeah!!!
do that

Customer:

is it finally done?

Customer:

it took me months to get my garage in order after finishing everything

Customer:

and moving everything out there, to both floors

Customer:

PS

Customer:

I got the new blue paint for the datsun air dam. and it looks like a very good match, in the can anyway. But A/C work has to come first. Because its more important to a certain persons sanity

Customer:

Of course I never talked to them about additives, etc....a friend picked it up for me, after they did the color match. so who knows about that

Ivan :

I finally finished the floor about a month ago. I am edging the sides with black and white checkered tile

Customer:

WOW! thats gonna be soooooo nice!

Ivan :

I did a 19 foot chevy bowtie edged in gray epoxy in the middle

Customer:

well at least it was CHEVY and not FORD!

Customer:

hehehe

Customer:

found on road dead

Ivan :

Right, the funny thing to that is my first car was a 1971 Ford Torino GT. I am going to look at a 1971 Torino 500 on Wednesday and see if I can closely resemble my first car with it. There may be one Ford in the fleet

Ivan :

Its not a GT, but its close

Customer:

hehe

Ivan :

Different roofline

Ivan :

What is funny, is this one has the same mileage as the one I bought in 1986

Customer:

my neighbor had some kind of old grand torino...but not in good shape

Customer:

geeze so it has low mileage

Ivan :

1972 began the Grand Torino. 1971 was more streamlined

Customer:

ah -aerodynamics

Customer:

welll maybe it was a torino, now I am not sure, but it was one of those

Customer:

it was in bad shape....

Ivan :

Sort of. In 1968 the Torino was more boxy, but in nascar it was more aerodynamic than the streamlined 1970 and 71

Customer:

he actually had two of them, both brown rust buckets

Ivan :

This one I'm going to look at is Brown and has a certain rust patina to it

Customer:

and now they are gone, and he has a bad monte carlo from the 90's

Ivan :

I am hoping it is solid under it all

Customer:

these had RUST HOLES

Customer:

but I had a friends parents in the 80's that had a primo one. And his hot sister would take us for beverages

Customer:

it was brown too and like new

Customer:

and HUGE!

Customer:

take your pointed body hammer with, and see if you can poke some holes in it....hehehehe

Ivan :

Mine was Blue, and so will this one be if things work out

Customer:

I seen them do that to some rusty cars on youtube

Customer:

welllllllllllll sorry for keeping you on here too long again....sorrrrry

Ivan :

If it has holes, I am passing it up. If it has little tiny holes I'm still interested

Ivan :

No problem, I will look for you in the near future!

Customer:

good luck! I hope it is a good one!

Ivan :

Me too. thanks

Customer:

send me those pics of your garage!!!!!

Ivan :

Tomorrow definitely!

Customer:

im outta here......:-)

Ivan :

Good night

Ivan, ASE Certified Master Technician
Category: Nissan
Satisfied Customers: 4870
Experience: ASE Master Tech w/ 20+ years in the field. Self employed for 9 years. Member of AUTOLAB radio show.
Ivan and 4 other Nissan Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hi Ivan. A few things...


1. I cant find any of those moisture bags. Is there something else I can use in addition to the duct tape over the holes on the tubes? I would buy something is there was something to buy to help make sure no mositure gets in there....


 


2. I watched another youtube video about replacing an A/C compressor. He said he had to add like 4 ounces of oil? because it was dry. The oil looked green color to me?


 


3. Do I need, will I get new orings? And if so, what kind of oil/lube do I or should I put on them when replacing with the new ones


 


 


Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
Yes, add refrigerant oil to the compressor. His looked green because it contained dye in addition to the oil. Everything should come with orings so you should be good there. Don't lose sleep over the bags. Put the accumulator on last right before evacuating the system. That is the only thing that will absorb the moisture.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

yeah, I will do accum last, but knowing me, it will end up taking me a few hours just to do that. Something will be difficult. If not, I will be happily surprised ;-L

So are all new (not refurb) sent out dry? I didnt even know they took oil. Geeze that could have ended badly for my new compressor. Im a noob, I wouldnt even know that. Its also why I am just taking my time :-)))

 

I can buy refrigerant oil at oriellys or any autoparts store? I hope the new unit has a capcity listed on it, because I have no idea how much they take otherwise. He said 4 ounces, but I am sure they are all different capacites!

Thanks again, happy 4th! ivan!


Do I need to lube the o rings?

Can you recommend any brand to buy or any brands to stay away from for the compressor?

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
All are generally sent out dry. Add a few ounces no matter what. Also add a few ounces into that accumulator when you install it. You can buy it at any autoparts store. See if you can find it with dye included. If not buy a small bottle of dye and add some of it too. Lubing the o-rings is a good idea. Just enough to coat it. If you are buying a new compressor, you are good where ever you go. The quality of new should be relatively good regardless of brand.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hi Ivan


Sorry, got some more questions for you, as I am sizing up this A/C job!


 


1. how often would the oil run out of the compressor? is there any way to check the level of it, without taking it off?


 


2. What kind of dye are we talking about, and I am curious why it needs dye? to look for leaks or what? is it dye you can see with black light? I have one of those in a kit that I bought when adding dye into engine oil in blazer one time.


 


3. What do I lube the orings with? I have all kinds of oil and stuff, white litium grease, etc...but I am not sure what is the proper thing to use for orings? I hope the instructions with the A/C compressor tell me exactly how much to add :-) so I can do it right the first time.


 


4. I was out looking over the A/C compressor and accumlator 2night. And had a question about the accumlator. There are those copper colored nuts on the front side of it, but I dont see anyway to unscrew it from the back side. I think the nuts holding it into place in the back are inside of a plastic looking housing. I think maybe that is the fan?? that is in the big blazk plastic housing sitting behind it. I see 5 or 6 smaller bolts holding that big black plastic housing in place. I imagine you will tell me, I have to take that off too :-O, so that I can access the nuts on the backside of the accumulator. hmmmmmmmm


 


5. Are you saying I put the same oil into the accumulator??? ughghghgh, this keeps getting more and more complex, the more I learn about it. If so, where do I put oil into accumlator? I have no idea on that one. Are you saying one ounce, two ounces, etc??? This is making me nervous now.


 


6. A side note, I also noticed a little port called evap port towards back of engine, right in the middle of the engine bay near the firewall. What is that for?


 


7. Can you send me a link to the type of oil I should be looking for, I want to make sure I get the right stuff, because I had no idea I needed that until the dude in the video showed himself dumping 4 ounces into it. In fact, I dont even know where to pour oil into the compressor. I dont really see any place to do that. So that is yet something Else I have to ask about.


 


I am sorry I have to ask so many questions about this, but I am a lot more nervous now about doing this job, because it is involving a lot more than I originally realized.


 


I think I can do it, but I just need to be 100% sure about these things. I certainly do NOT want to screw anything up.


 


Thank you once again!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
You measure the oil going in. It is not measurable while it is in the system. It should never come out until the system is evacuated and even with that a little stays in. It is suspended in the refrigerant. The dye is use for leak testing. Once in, it will always show up in the event of a leak. It is always a good idea to put it in so if a leak surfaces later, you can identify it under a black light. The orings get lubed with the refrigerant oil itself. The dye is like the oil dye but it has to be for air conditioning systems. Yes, put the same oil into the accumulator. You will just pour a little in. Nothing special. The accumulator is clamped. If you look there is a small bolt on the back side. You ask for ESTER oil. They will know what you are talking about. You will pour the oil into the openings where the lines bolt up. Then rotate the compressor clutch a little and it will move within the compressor.

It is not as bad as you think.

I think I covered everything.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks for all the info!


hmmmm I was nervous before, and then after all our chatting and watching more youtube videos, I was OK with the job, and now this oil business is making me nervous again. Sorry, I cant help it. I am not sure I understand the exact procedure to get oil into the compressor nor the accumulator. Since I have never seen them off a vehicle before.


So you are saying I should dab a little refrigerant oil with a finger?


 


hmmmm I didnt see anyway to remove anything from back side of accumulator. It looks like what is on the back top side of it, is permanent, and not movable. I will have to take some pictures of it, and wait to see what you can show me about it. At this point, I just dont understand how to do anything with the backside of that accumlator. There is a metal tube running out of the top backside of it, and it looks like it cannot be unscrewed there. Which is why I thought it had to be done somewhere else, like further back inside that black box (fan housing??/evap core?).


 


At least, I understand now why the dye is important. I see its the same purpose as engine oil dye. :-)


 


Also, sorry I am not sure what you mean by the 'accumulator is clamped'


 


Ivan, I know as you have tuaght me before, I can do this, but I just have several more issues and questions I have to clarify before I will do this job.


 


Also, one last thing, I found several good step by step procedure for doing this job, and now I understand a lot better what words to use, when I take it to a garage to have them evacuate the a/c system, then apply a vaccum to it, and I imagine it will hold and OK vaccum but not perfect. That is what happened before. It held vaccum OK, just maybe not perfect. And after they see that vaccum hold up, then they can (or maybe I will do that part with your help) recharge the system. Since I have all the equipment and refridgerant I bought last summer. I am stil unsure about doing that part. I would like too, but as you can see, for a first time noob perfectionist, this job is multiplying...


 


PS


I stuck a 3/8" socket wrench into that hole in the spring/tensioner, and I saw how it moved. It actually seemed fairly easy ( I sprained my wrist and was not sure if I could apply enough pressure or not, but it didnt seem that bad at all to move it. So I think I should be OK with that part, and I may have a helper to just slide the belt off the compressor at that point of the job) . So at least I know that part shoul be really easy. And I will NOT remove the whole belt. I will try to be very careful and just remove only what I have to....I hope I can accomplish that. There is a digram on the engine bay, of how the belt runs throughout the system. So if it did come off more than expected, I can see the diagram.


 

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
Don't let the oil issue bother you at all. Just pour a few ounces into the compressor, a few ounces into the accumulator and call it a day. Use Ester oil. Nothing more to worry about. You will pour it into the openings at the compressor and at the accumulator. Just simply pour it into the openings where the lines hook up. Naturally before you hook the lines up. You will use about 3 capfuls between the 2 places you are adding. Where you add doesn't matter. You want it into the compressor because it needs the lube right away. The accumulator is good to pour it into because it has an area inside that will absorb it. The accumulator has a band that wraps around it and uses a small 10mm bolt to hold the ends together thus clamping the accumulator. For a system to be classified as "tight", no leaks, it should hold almost 30 inches of vacuum for over 30 minutes. You're catching me still awake because I downloaded a cool app that lets me create albums and sync them to my phone, so I have been moving pictures around.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

yeah, I cant believe you are still going!!!! its VERY late. I was up way past 345am the other night, since I m on vaction. Im at my PC of course, as usual. Working on some of my cool stuff.

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
I am dealing with craziness in my end. Tonight I'm just messing around, but tomorrow will be crazy. I have moved my automotive program to a larger facility and I'm setting it up. I am waiting on tons of equipment as well as furniture for the classroom. I have 2 sessions that are supposed to show up on Monday. One new cohort and one that I have been working with for 10 months. I am trying to delay the new cohort for 1 week because I don't want them to see the place unfinished. I want to start on a high note, not a low note of disappointment. It is insanity. By the end of tomorrow I will have a better handle on what I'm dealing with.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

sorry things are so crazy for you right now, the good thing, this too will pass :-)



Speaking of crazy things, I was watching new episodes of Mike and Edd. But Edd did something that made me crazy wondering about the status of the timing chain on my blazer. 114,000 miles and its never been done. I REEEEEEEEEEEEallllly dont want to pay to have that done, I know its expensive, and there is no way I am doing that job. I have my limitations still being a noob. I am hoping I can drive a while longer without the job. But 14 year old truck and 1140,000 miles. We put maybe 3000 to 4000 miles a year on it, and its going to drop down to more like 2000 or 3000 starting soon.

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
Don't worry a bit. That timing chain will easily do 300000 miles
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I dont think you know how happy you just made me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! that is frigging awesome to know!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
I sold my 94 blazer with 250000 miles original everything.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

That is awesome to hear about the 94 blazer. I just love my blazer a whole lot!!!!!! When I saw the paint job I did, when walking out of a store today, it just made me smile real big!!!! you cannot even tell, unless you know what to look for!!!!!!


 


the more I learn and work on the 99 blazer, the better it seems. I mean, its becoming easier for me to understand what is what in the engine bay, and not overwhelming like 1 year ago. The 280, I can identify pretty much everything in the entire engine, and tell you mostly what it all does. Little by little I am learning the blazer, and it is VERY exciting to know I am becoming more confortable with it. So when other things go wrong, I will have more knowledge...it all builds on itself, and learning about cars has made me more confident when dealing with other projects in my life.


THANK YOU ! again for helping me so much.


I will stop sending messages now. I have to think over all the stuff you told me, and I will be back on here tomorrow sometime. I dont know exactly when I am gonig to start the a/c project. But since its not going to be that hot for at least 10 more days, I may wait until next weekend anyway. That will give me time to gather all the parts and materials, and make sure I have a 100% solid plan, that I can see in my head of exactly what to do.

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
Don't let this upcoming project worry you. It is straight forward and self explanatory as you move forward. Have a great night!
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I thought of something else....to ask.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

This may sound like a dumb question, but lets say, I have replaced everything, and am ready to have the system evacuated, and then recharged. Is it OK to start up the blazer and drive it somewhere, even though there is no refridgerant in it?

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
Yes you can definitely drive it without worry. There is no such thing as a dumb question :)
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Im gonig to go take a few pictures of the accumulator. If you have time to briefly discuss that part of the job, I may just proceed and work on it today and probably tomorrow, if it drags into another day. I will be uploading pics in 5 to 10 minutes. I still dont understand how to removed accumulator. So that is why I want to upload the pics....

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.

Here is a picture that may be similar. Note the screw that clamps the wrap around clamp that surrounds the accumulator.

 

graphic

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

where to detach accumulator?I

have pics will be uploading

momentarily, I have to mark them up first

 

Attachment: 2013-07-06_182600_blazeraccumandevapport.pdf

that is a pdf file, click it to open, or right click and do a save as.

 

unscrew back of accumlator?

 

evac port?

 

metal band on accum

charingin port

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Ok, I think that is all the pics I wanted to markup and upload.

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.

Look at my notes in these pics.

graphicgraphic

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Ok, I think that is all the pics I wanted to markup and upload.

 

1. Also, you said this "Then rotate the compressor clutch a little and it will move within the compressor."

2. DO I just turn the pulley wheel, and rotate it a little? Like what a 1/4 turn, or 1/2 turn or 2 or 3 fullturns??? not sure how much you meant to rotate it

 

3. Are you saying I need to dump the oil into the accumlator, like when I have the accumulator turned a little sideways in my hands, before I bolt it back on? I dont know how I can dump oil into the accumlator without making a mess???

 

4. Since there will be two holes on top of the a/c compressor, am I supposed to pour it into one side or the other, or both?


I think that does it finally for all my questions, and I am about to go buy all the parts finally!!!!

 

PS
What bolt did you mean??? I still dont understand how I can remove the accumlator? without removing both of those big bolts that go into and out of the top of it??? sorry

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
For the compressor, the hub in the center of the pulley is actually connected to the inside of the compressor. That is the part you will rotate. Turn it in both directions a little. That will make sure the compressor will not start up dry. For the accumulator, turn it a little sideways, and slowly pour some in. You'll be able to do it without it coming out the other side.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I went and got the new compressor and new accum. There are some instructions with it...I will mention a few more things before I decide to turn wrenches on this today

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
Sounds good!
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

g

 

oing to add pictures now. I posted a Q on the nissan, to see if we can chat now.

 

 

the pics are large, U may have to scroll out?

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
All looks good. Just add 1 of 2 ounces of dye to the system. You can add it just like the refrigerant.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I

will upload more pics here, this system is acting flaky, so first i have to post this message, and then go back and edit my post, to upload pictures, it keeps acting that way. This software of theirs is kind of broken here.

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
that happens sometimes. All looks good so far
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hi Ivan, OK dont respond to this part of this message, otherwise, i have to keep posting a new message, its broken :-(((((( I am trying to upload new pics. I should be done in 1 minute or less


OK, I think thats it for pictures. Now, if you have a few minutes, can you answer that other new question. So we can try a chat. Will make it a lot faster I think to finish this out.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Ok I am done I hope

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
All looks good, Yes request me and I'll accept it
Customer: replied 1 year ago.


I did request you on a new chat on nissan a little while ago. I guess you must not see it,. maybe thats broken today too?

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
let me check
Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
ok I'm in on the other question
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

I had to goto sears to get a few things I needed. I got both sides of the accumulator to move, which I wanted to make sure I could do before anything else. I have a question tho....on the ac compressor that is currently on the blazer, I can turn the front plate around back and forth. But on the new one, it doesnt move? Is that normal. The reason I ask is because I thought that center plate that is on the very front part of the compressor, is what I thought I will be moving around a few full turns to put in the oil. Well It doesnt even budge on the new one. I didnt try turning it with a wrench yet, I see a nut buried inside of it, I think I might have to use that nut to be able to turn it around ....(and am I supposed to spin it clockwise or counterclockwise or doesnt it matter?)


 

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
You have to remove the block off plate from the open ports. If that plate is on, it will lock it from turning because the air cannot move.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

well I got all the needed bolts to loosen a little, so that means I can take everything off that needs to come off. BUt I remove the rubber stopper from the top of the new compressor and I still cannot move that clutch at all by hand,. I stuck a 1/2 socket on the nut inside of the center of that pulley/clutch area, and was able to turn it both ways. Then I realized maybe I just loosened it by turning it one way or the other. Now what to do? Shouldnt it turn by hand? I dont understand why the other one is so easy to spin around, and the new one wont budge except with out a socket on it, hellllllllllllp


If I cant turn it around easily, then I dont know how to load it up with oil. And I am now worried that I shouldnt havent turned that center nut both ways,. ughghghgh What do I need to do to make sure its OK? I mean, if I turned it enough one way or the other, isnt it going to just let the whole pulley pop right off there?

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
The new unit has no oil and is very tight from the new seals inside. Put a socket on the nut on the front and with the ports uncovered, turn it clockwise. It should turn. don't worry about the resistance, its new and that is why it is so tight.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thanks for info. I am curious tho, is it possible to turn that nut off there?
I dont know how it works exactly since its inside of something that is always spinning around and around and around....but I will turn it as you said,m clockwise, and peek down in there, and see if I can see anything moving around,. Its not going to hurt turning it a few times, without any oil? Or should I just not turn it until its mounted? Im just making sure I understand everthing now that I am out here loosening things up...


I didnt turn anything far enough to let any air in or out of the system, just made sure I could turn them a little...


thanks

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
It will not loosen easily. Pour a little oil in, then turn it, it will help it loosen
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

well, I know I dont even have to be messing with it, while its still off the vehicle. So Maybe I should just proceed to install it and stop messing with it now.


 


I was just really worried that I loosened that nut, when I should not have. Is it possible to turn that nut, right off that center bolt?


 


If thats true, then which way tightens it, I am having a hardtime understanding how it should work to tighten it back up, in case I loosened it already...?


 


 

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
It will rotate before the nut will loosen. It resembles a lock nut, so it will resist loosening. It is ok to do this with it off the vehicle though, so do it if you would like to.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

ok whew, that makes me feel better. I didnt do anything that could have loosened it, I mean I didnt turn it that hard., Just a little each way.


 


I would rather just install it soon, if I dont poop out first 2night. I would rather dump the oil down there, after its already attached. Otherwise I can see making a mess of oil....


thanks!

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
That makes sense!
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

its like my own little comedy show going on. OK, so I tried for real this time, to pull on the tensioner, and I can see it hits the tab, and wont or cant go any further. Well, it does loosen up the belt all around, but it doesnt seem to loosen it enough, so I can just pull it off, past the top of the compressor. Whats the trick to removing the belt off the compressor? Do I have to also remove it from the big pulley thats below it?.


 


hehehe....im almost ready to do it. but gotta get this belt off there. I dont want this belt to be a problem. Now I see how easy it easy to loosen it up, and also let the big wrench go, that I have holding it loose. But I am just a little concered that there is going to be some crazy trick to getting it back on.


 


Maybe I just have to also remove it from the big pulley thats right under it???


 


thanks!!!!

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
Instead of trying to pull the belt off of the compressor, look for a smooth pulley that you can slide the belt off of, then you'll have the room to pull it off the compressor.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

well I got the belt off, had no choice but to slip it off more than I wanted. Then I saw how the big socket wrench I was using to hold the tensioner, wanted to go a LOT further down into the engine bay. I figured that wasnt good, so I basically tied off the wrench that is inside the tensioner 3/8" hole, into the body frame. I just didnt know what to do with it, and didnt want to relase it all the way. So its OK now, its not going to move until I want it to. So I can begine work and its not hardly 11pm....

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
Nice!
Customer: replied 1 year ago.

i decide I am going to start on it in the morning, I have all tools I need, I have the belt off far enough, I loosened all the bolts holding compressor onto frame strcuture, and I just touched the other connection just enough to know I can move them without problems as you said I would be able to, then i snugged them back a little bit, so basically I have everything reayd now for the job. It SHOULD be easy from here on out. But I want to start in the morning, so I dont make some stupid problem by being tired.


 


Thanks again for getting me this far. its exciting. I just hope in the end of all this, my a/c works :-) I realize it could be leaking. But the main point of this whole exercise was becquse I dont know the compressor to explode since the bearing are going bad, from the bad squealing it does once in a while,.

Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
That sounds like a fair plan. I was doing something tonight and decided the same. It will go nice and smooth.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I am going to try to upload some pics, its broken again, so hang on before you respond tpo this one. Thanks
Expert:  Ivan replied 1 year ago.
I responded to your other one.

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