Nissan Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
sorry I posted on a few different ones, was trying to upload these pics for you to see, thought U might like to see
one thing I thought I saw Mike and Edd do, when painting, is to blast a little shot or two of paint, away from the car...I guess to prime it. Once I get painting that I wouldnt need to do that, just first time? Because this is such a small area, I figured I could blast a little paint on a board next to my painting area, and once I see paint coming out, then do the deed and paint the panel.
yeah, I am getting really close now to doing this.
Basically I know what pressure to try on the paint gun, I got the mixing cups for mixing the 4:1:1 paint ratio, when I mix the gray primer and also the clear coat (with the smaller can of hardener I believe that stuff is called)
And I will do a little test painting first, since I have more than enough paint
I think the good thing is that the one paint gun is used for primer, and one is for color. But when it comes time to clear coat, I am going to have to clean out the larger diameter paintgun, and then load up the clear coat. I will have to blast some clear coat onto my wood test surface that will be next to my painting area.
I have paint thinner stuff they sold me at the auto paint store. So I will wipe out the canister that holds the paint as good as I can, then load up some paint thinner full stregnth I assume and shoot it through the paintgun onto my test wood surface.
Then I have a third canister (I got a set of three), so I could use that one for painting the clear coat. But I will just have to run paint thinner through the paintgun for 5 or 10 seconds or whatever, to clear it all out, right?
*****I will make sure to not over do it when painting each coat, and I believe I am to hold the gun about 8 to 12" away from surface. You can see the area is not very big so it wont take long
Dont worry I am going to mask off everything, cover the blazer with plastic sheets and a car cover that I dont really care what happens to it, and tape off some stuff underneath it too, with some brown paper I got at menards. So it will all be safe from over spray
BIG thing I am unsure about, is if you look at the pictures, and look at the top of the sanded paint/primer area
I made it real smooth, with wet sanding 2000 grit. So the transition between the original brown paint, and the area that I sanded down to the original factory primer, is a little marred up. I wouldnt call it scratched per say, but it made a noticable mark in the paint up there at the top side of this sanded area
You cant see it in the pictures, but you can see it if you get up closer and look at it. Its a distinct line that goes across the top, like right above the gray primered area.
SOOOO what do I do about that????
Its like I dont know how to exactly stop sanding and start painting. Cause you keep sanding, blending, etc....but at some point you have to STOP sanding the area. Which is what I did. But now I have this mark acorss it. maybe you will say I can just buff it out, since I only used 2000 grit WET (yeah I got it wet) and then sanded it last night, as the last thing I did.
What i mean, is that the tranisition between brown paint above it, and the gray paint below it, is very smooth. Sandy checked that all out and said I did a great job. So when I said the transition was marred up, I guess I meant that its just a little noticable to the eye, but not to the touch
im perplexed at how to deal with that. And I know I need to understand that before I get out my paint gun!
I will be back here in about 5 minutes, I promise, will leave this open
What you do with that top edge is after you are finished with the clear, you will wetsand with the 2000 at that edge. That will bring to two points to the same level.
sorry I wrote so much, its pre-paint-planning time for real now
so the pics look decent right?
I am definately worried about wet sanding after its all done. I just say that because I wet sanded that edge last night, and I see a mark all the way across it. :-((((
Im not conifident I can do that without having the same exact thing happen.
I only have 4 mixing cups, and need to do at least 6 coats to 8 coats of painting. But I dont need to mix the brown paint because its already mixed. So maybe I just have to use some paint thinner and clean out the plastic mixing cups before putting new paint. I dont want to use the mixing cups unless they are clean, because that could send *globs* into the final paint I would imagine.
BTW, as in the pictures, a few places I sanded a little too deep, and one little spot hit metal, but I cannot worry about that, the gray primer will cover all that up. Again, I am not going for PRO, just to have those nasty rust spots be gone!!!! And all I have learned already WOW!!!!!!!!! This is soooo exciting
hmmmm We may have to discuss that wet sanding the final clear coat when I get to that point (I suppose even if I paint it on tonight, I can wet sand it tomorrow or sunday), but in the mean time, I have another important Q's to discuss before turning on the paint gun
I think the things I listed in here are my final issues before I do the painting!!! Except for this last issue
Basically, I know about back masking the masking tape, which is what I am going to do along the top edge, where brown paint, and existing gray primer come together. however....the problem I have, is tyring to decide EXACTLY where to place that masking tape
Now, I realize you cant see it in those pictures but I will upload another closer picture. if you zoom in 100%, I think you will see the line marred up area, above where the gray primer is at.
dont get distracted by the reflections in the paint, when you zoom in, its deceiving. You might think I sanded a bunch of stuff above the gray primer, when you look at this picture at 100%, but I assure you I didnt do that
but I am hoping you can see that little faint hazy mark going right across the top of the gray primered area
SO, do I put the back masking tape right above that area, then the primer will settle onto that area. Or do I put the back masking directly below that area, so that it is touching the top of the gray primer???
It seems to me, if I back-masked along the hazy strip right above the gray paint, that will be several millimeters higher than the paint below it, and that would not be good
so maybe for the primer, I dont paint over that hazy area
maybe I only paint that hazy area with the new brown paint??? and then of course clear coat everything from that hazy area, on downwards
that took a lot to explain, sorry about that.
oh yeah, that reflection, is the green plastic tarp that I drove on top of, I can see it now, when I zoomed in on that last picture. Just FYI
I think that is all I got. Once we discuss that and decide what to do, I really think I will be ready to do this finallly! ARHGHGHGHHHH
I will have to step away in about 5 minutes, but will be back on here within 20 minutes, just in case yu think I abononed you.
Yes the pics look very good, clean up any gray that shows before you clearcoat. Then clear and simply wetsand the edge. That will blend the two surfaces together. After wetsanding you will use your buffer and polish and bring the luster to a beautiful finish.
would there be any gray when I get to the point of clear coating, I assumed it would all be brown paint by that point? Am I overlooking something?
ps and what kind of polish are we talking about??? I saw Edd use ALL kinds of crazy stuff. I have no idea what to get? All I have is wax and a buffer from menard
Im sorry to ask again, but where do I use the back masking tape trick?
do I put the back masking tape trick right on the gray area or right above the hazy area?
OK, I really have to run for about 15 minutes, I will leave this open and check for you in about 15 minutes.
There should be none, but I would recommend, removing your tape, the retaping
so you are saying to remove tape in between coats of gray primer and color paint too?
No, just between color and clear
This way, you can see the edge before you seal it in
Tape it in the same spot though
Im just readnig what ya wrote
but, where do I place the tape edge? since I am back-masking the tape edge...I am not sure where that tape should be placed? I realize the back-masking will allow some paint to fall down, in not such a hard line, as if I just painted directly on the edge
it may not matter anyway, since I am sure this takes years of experience to really get it right, but I am trying to do the right thing by using the back masking trick. I just dont know where the edge should go. But if I had to guess I would say on the primer, I should put the tape down in between the hazy area and gray primer (during the time I am using gray primer). Because then I wont build up that area (the hazy area) with extra paint.
The main thing is that you want the clear to blend to two surfaces together. Make a tape line higher so it blends in with the old surface. Then wetsand it to perfection
And then I move the back-masking tape right above the hazy area when I do the color paint. Since that area is scuffed up a little bit anyway, then maybe the brown paint will fall into that hazy area, but not build it up too much
and then clear coat as you said (put the back-masking tape edge right above the hazy area) before clear coating.
how does that sound?
somehow, it seems that no matter how I do this, I am still going to see a line :-))))
Painting a whole body panel would seem EASy compared to trying to blend paint on a 14 year old vehicle, that is on an angled surface, and up against a fender too. qrgH!
I knew all along this subject we are discussing was going to be my nemesis, its where years of experience would normally make it easy for a person.
I will check back on here in a little bit to see what ya said to my last questoin, then I will be painting soon
The key is to reduce it the best you can, Why don;t you do that whole area under the molding?
i need ya!
there is a littlwe while filter thing, plastic, that was part o0f the paint gun set
Ithe only place I could figure to put it was inside the hole on the top of the paint gun, where the paint can attached
Im hoping that is where it goes
this has taken me wayyyy too long to just get everything covered upa
a nd now I am majoprily struggling to figure out how to operate the paint gun
I think I have it figured out and am about to dump paint in there
only have 1.5 hours of light!!!!
well i got it working, but I am not sure if its going on corectly, I had to have the pressure at the paint gun air meter set pretty high before it seems like it wanted to to even pressurize enough to spary paint
now Its spraying paint
I tested it on a MDF flat board first
it seemed a little globby at first but now I guess it seems better
I just dont know for sure
Im running out of day light and its gonna rain tomorrow I think, and I got it all taped up with a huge tarp over it, and then a bunch of brown paper roll stuff that I got from menards
im a little concerned that I had to set the pressure so high on the gun, maybe now that I am waiting for the second caot to dry
but unfortnately after I had put the first very minor coat of paint, I noticed someting in the directions of the poaint gun!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
it said that I was supopsed to clean the gun out first with thinner because it was coated with some kind of anti=corrosion crap at the factory
well I didnt do that first, and now am horrified that I just sprayed paint on there, and it aint gonna stick right
but I decided since I have done all of this work and the rain is coming and I wanted to get primer done tonight
so I sprayed the second coat anyway, that could have been a very bad mistake on my part
maybe I should have sanded it all down again and started over ?????????????
I wish the paint gun people would have told me that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
they new I was a noob and then I somehow missed that line in the instructions...cause I was kinda freaking out that the gun wouldnt spray any paint
now I know and wish I had time to have practiced with it first, that is what I should have done
I hope you read this before I go any further
because maybe you will tell me to stop painting and sand it back down and start over, that will stink but I will do it if I need to,m instead of spending all the time doing all the coats of paint, and then finding out that first little blast messed it all up!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am steaming mad right now
I forgot to mention that after I read that, I grabbed the other paint canister and put some thinner oin there, and ran it through the gun, before I did the second coat.
NOw the second coat is dry enopugh and I want to put on another one, but maybe I will have to stop now, and sand all that off, if I made a mistake by no cleaning it first!!!!!!!!!!!!! grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
i also forgot to mention that before I painted the blazer, I sprayed some paint onto that board, and that was before I cleaned the gun with theinner and then sprayed second coat. So maybe at least since I ran paint throughy it,first onto thatpiece of wood for testing it, maybe that will mean I didnt just create a real problem here with paint adhesion. but since they spefically said to clean it out with thinner first, I somehow think that just because I ran some paint through it first, doesnt not mean it got all that bad stuff out of thtere
well its getting dark in 15 to 20 minutes and it may rain 2night, so I may have to take all that stuff off there an pull bacl into garage and wait to see what to do about this. I do not want to make the problem worse by adding more paint, if I need to sand it all off before starting over.
I think I need to take a timeout, and go back and talk to those people who sold me the gun and have them show me in real time how to make the gun work. they shuld have some extra paint laying around to demonstrate. Or worset case I will let them use mine
I really wish the gun had not been such a problem to use, and I could be using it all wrong.
YEAH I am gonna unplug and run
Now that I have had all these bad experiences, I need to regroup after I hear from you, and go see them next week. then I will either resand all that paint off, or continue on, after they show me how to use the paint guin propertly
sorry I spaaaazed out.
I really was upset that I didnt see the note in the instructions about the gun. I did look at the instructoins, but unfortunately I didnt see that part of it
U think it will still be OK. At least I sent some paint thru it for a minute or two before spraying onto car, maybe that blasted some of that bad stuff out of there
WOW, it sure was a lot of work masking off the truck.
Well, anyway Ivan, I just did what you said. Which is cleaning out the gun from the left over paint, and call it a night. Then we picked up all the tools, pulled all the paper off of the truck and pulled it back into garage
I want to regroup
I ran some thinner thru it, wiped out the cup, etc...so the gun should be clean now. So I learned how to do that too
The truck is back in garage now.
I think it says you are supposed to recoat within 12 hours or less, does that sound right? Whats the big deal if you waited longer?
Well, from what I could tell the gray primer looked OK, but if I got up really close, I think I could see tiny little bumps in all the paint. I mean you gotta get right up there and look. If you stand at side of truck, like next to it, and just look down at the gray primer, it looks great. I will snap a picture in the morning, and upload. I will try to get a close up too. So you can see what it looks like.
I sure learned a lot about this painting experience 2night. I am glad I finally tried it. I learned how long it takes me to cover the entire blazer, I didnt want ANY paint getting anywhere else. So that took a while. And then the gun problem. I finally made it work. I didnt realize there was so many adjustments on it....geeeze
The thing that worries me a little about the paint gun, is that in order to make it spray decent (at least what I assume was decent, but could be rotten bad to a knowledgable person looking at it) I had to turn up the pressure at the tank to like 90 psi. And it held there. Then I had to adjust the pressure at the paint gun inlet (I had a pressure guage on the spray gun)...and it was like at 80 psi. But it sure didnt sound like 80 psi to me. It felt a lot less than that.
That is why I am going to take the gun to Leons shop, and see if he will spend a little time with me (I will pay him for his time), and I will bring some paint with me. And have him adjust the gun to spray a decent pattern for Gray primer. And then I can see what he does to the adjustments on it. There was some kind of a screw/bolt on the bottom of it, and I believe I had to open it up all the way, and then it finally seem to get and keep the pressure.
but 80 psi is way too high, but I think somehow that just cant be right
I KNEW I should have practiced, and then I would have realized all of this before I got way into this job. I knew better, and I just didnt have the time, and really wanted to paint tonight. So that was another learning mistake I made. Which I wont make again
So, all, in all, I know after reading all this, it might sound like I am unhappy, but I did learn a lot, and that is the whole point of this. I also believe that I figured out how to insert that little filter into the tube that connects to te gun to the paint holder canister that sits on top of gun. I mean if I put it in the wrong way, the gun woudl have never sprayed.
well I am wiped out totally, going to sleep on it, and if weather is OK, I will be going to Leons shop to have him show me how to use the spray gun properly.
Once you see the pictures of the paint, I think you will tell me I need to wet sand it with 400 to 500 (that is what the paint shop told me to use). to make it a little smoother. But they did say that wet sanding the primer coats is not so that the paint will stick better, but merely for "Looks". What I mean, is by sanding it smooth, the other layers will lay down better.
I agree. Sand it, then you should be able to continue. No real harm done.
this site is acting crazy this morning...
it never seems to finish loading the previous comments.
Oh well, lets see if you get my response here. Wow what a day that was yesterday. It taught me a lot more about whats involved to do a job like this. When you dont have a paint booth, etc it takes alot longer to get everything setup and taken down. :-O Well its going to be raining throughout this weekend, so I cant paint again (unless I covered both the other cars with car covers (wouldnt that protected them completely?)
and then paint inside the garage. Since the area I have to paint is so small, that should not be a problem to paint in the garage (as long as you tell me that car covers will not let any paint through them) because I only have to paint for a few seconds at a time on the small area.
But I really think before I do anything else, I need to learn how I am supposed to use this paint gun. So I better just take a time out for a few days until I can get all that stuff sorted out. I need to be 100% sure my paint guns are going to work properly before using them for any more painting. I am not confident at all, that I know how to operate them, after seeing how many things can be adjusted on them.
I will post back once I have thought about all of this some more
Sounds good, and I understand your concern. When I do my car, I will be in the same place
also, you may know about this one.
My new compressor is only 15 gallons, I bought it and it has worked fine for other jobs so far,
but the paint shop said that normally they use like 150 gallon tanks or whatever. like really big ones
I am going to see leon this afternoon and he is going to spend an hour with me, and show me how to use my paint gun
i will be very curious to see how much pressure it takes on his larger compressor to make my paint gun work. because like I may have mentioned, it took 80 psi according to the [pressure guage on the gun to get things working. So maybe using a 15 gallon/200 psi compressor wont work for painting the little things I want to paint, but the thing is that. Once I got paint flowing out of the gun, it never made the compressor kick back on, because I had output pressure set to 90 psi, and the tank gets up to 200 psi and slowly goes down, as I painted, but the thing is that since I am only ever going to paint small stuff, it seems like it should be able to hold that 90 psi for plenty long enough, and I did see that happen when painting
so the main issue is why did input pressure on the guage attached to the bottom of the gun say like 80 psi, and then I also adjsuted the pressure dial on the bottom of the gun itself, , and finally somehow, I got paint flowing.
oh well, I will be watching how this gun and pressure guage works at leons. I am going to mix up the same kind of paint, even tho its an expensive waste of paint. I want to see my gun and my paint, being used at his shop attached to his huge compressor. And then I will learn a lot more
I still tend to think that even tho I only have a 15 gallon (high output) compressor that holds 200 psi, that it should be sufficient to do the kind of painting I ever plan to do in the next few years. Maybe the fault is with the pressure guage that came with paint gun kit, or maybe just me not knowing how to set the dials on the gun
I will let you know what I find out after leons today
Pressure has a lot to do with it. The tank may not be able to keep up with the demands of the gun.
You will end up ok
Well, I learned a TON of little insider tricks after meeting with Leon. He has been painting stuff for over 45 years.
He helped me setup the paint guns and learn to listen to how it sounds, how it sprays. how to adjust all 3 options on it, and how it effects performance of the paint gun, etc it would take a while to explain everything he taught me. I was there for 3 hours
I have to goto harbor freight to buy a few little things (like a water filter ) for the paint gun, and a few other things he suggested.
He showed me how to properly soak and clean the paint guns, what materials to use for sanding, and scuff and buff,, etc etc etc
I took some notes specifically related to project I am working on the blazer. So I am just going to go visit the paint shop 1 more time and see if they have the little paper filters to filter the paint through before letting it enter the paint canister on the paint gun.
But, I am definately a lot more knowledgeable after spending all that time with him, and having him open up his paint cabinet, and show me all these different things.
Also, one other important thing,, is that the incoming pressure on the pressure guage on my paint gun at Leons shop was like 120 psi. He said it was OK. If you believed the bad instructions that I got with the paint gun, you would think that it should only be 43 psi max. But he said thats a fallacy. So we practiced with the incoming pressure at about 120 psi. That tells me, I need to boost up the pressure next time I paint. At least to 100 or 110. And see if I can make it feel and sound like it did when connected to his huge compressor. I think since my tank goes up to 200 psi, and the small amount of painting I will ever be doing with the tank, shoudl be OK, as you said. Because I will only ever be blasting a little paint at a time, which wont use up that buffer between 110 psi at my paint gun and the 200 psi at the tank
while I was painting with it the first time the other day, the compressor never had to restart itself. So again, that seems to tell me it will be OK for what I need
PS I posted something about the oil dispstick in that other one....Im very worried about starting engine now. Can you go pop over there and read that, and let me know what you think. Thats a big concern for me right now, and THANK you for coming online now!!!!
This whole body repair is mind numbing in details...
also, is it best to check oil after engine was running, then shut it off and check it. Or was the dipstick made to check when engine is cold. I have always assumed to check it when its cold, and that is how the dipstick was calibrated at the factory, for checking it when its cold.
im worried that I should not have added any oil, and that the reading on I got was in fact wrong. You see, I hardly ever have had to add oil to blazer, it doesnt seem to burn much. So maybe I should have re-checked a few times before dumping it in there.
NOw I think I really better drain a little out of there. ugh!
I certainly dont want to destry engine for something so stupid. It tiffs me off that the dipstick in the blazer isnt easy to read
OR maybe I should just give it an oil change. Since it could use one anyway. Wife will be mad, cause she wants to use the blazer soon.
I just decided to change the oil
and after I drained it all out into a oil container, it was about 4.5 quarts, which is what it says the crankcase quarts is
so that means it was a little low.
and I only added about 4.5 quarts back into it, even tho the filter was like 2 times longer
is it ok that different filters are different sizes, like from different brands?
I figured since it was a larger oil filter (like about 2x bigger) that just adding 4.5 quarts is OK. Im scared to add too much
it was a Wix brand by the way.
Oh well, its all OK now, but I still cant get a good read on the oil level. that is really really ridiculous. All other cars have had no problems doing this, with their dipsticks.
I have to leave now, and BTW, this chat window freaked out before and locked up, so I posted over in the other one
thanks Ivan for helping once again.
I cannot get a good reading, but I will try again and look more closely at the side that doesnt havent the marks on it. It said 4.5 quarts, and that is what I gave it. Since it has a larger filter (maybe 2x the size) ...a Wix brand (they said Wix was a good brand, is it?) I decided to add very close to 4.5 quarts. The new oil container has 5.1 quarts, and I added it until it was half way between the bottom of container and the first quart mark. So that should be just about perfect.
Its nice the 350 and blazer take same 5W30, and I use mobile super 5000 conventional in both, since it was mobil oil in the 350 when we got it.
If I had my friend Mike remove (evacuate) the freon from my blazer's a/c system. Then could I remove the compressor after that safely? How much is involved in donig that job? THink I can do it? Know that it always takes me a lot longer, and the serpentine belt would be a problem maybe for me, since I have never done one before. The serpentine belt looks fine to me, and so I would think I could just reuse it....
I am thinking about attempting to replace the compressor myself. It wont be for 6 to 8 weeks until wife is at home full time. Because I think if I choose to accept this job of replacing the compressor, it will end up taking me a week of part time chipping away at it. I know that it SHOULD be able to be done in like 4 hours....can you tell me the overall steps involved? so I have some idea and can start looking into it
1. evacuate freon (mike can do that)
2. loosen and remove serpetine belt
3. start unbolting compressor
4. remove compressor and any piping that goes to/from it
5. remove other components from the engine too? in order to do this?
6. Reverse process...
7. Goto mikes and get it charged.
8. Have some A/C again
Is it OK to buy a refurb unit? or for 20 or 30$ more I can get a new one for like 220$ I think the auto parts told me.
I cant help it
check this one out
scroll down and look at the list of all the upgrades it got!
Hi Scott, You can definitely replace the compressor yourself. The key here is to time it so when you swap it, you can get back to have the system evacuated and recharged as soon as possible. The accumulator will absorb moisture and you want to limit that. It will still work if it does absorb moisture, but it will work better if you can keep it to a minimum. Definitely buy a new compressor. Durability of rebuilts is not good.
Nice looking Mini! Color is good. Options are good. The Xenon lights are a must have. The leather seats are better than the leatherette seats. No heated seats, but that is ok. The car is optioned very well. The color is a stand out. Not too many around in that color, so it stands apart.
hmmm Wouldnt I have the system evacuated before removing the compressor? I am not sure why I would have to wait. I know there will be a delay. Something will be stubborn difficult etc. Everything is like that when I work on these jobs the first time
PS also, the mini has extended factory warranty that they said would transfer to the new owner until april 2015. So that is worth a few 1000. Since they said its bumper to bumper factory warranty, and that our local BMW shop can perform the warranty work (Is that true?)
Mini is owned by BMW, so it is very possible. Yes you will evacuate the system before, but then ambient air infiltrates the lines. The accumulator absorbs moisture so in the case of high humidity, it can saturate quickly. As soon as you disconnect the lines, cap them off with something, even duct tape. Then when you reconnect, you want to suck the system into a vacuum and remove any humid air that may be trapped in it,
I have dehumidfier in the garage, can keep it dry and low humidity like the entire day before and day of this work
didnt get the mini, wife isnt that interested in actually buying one, so until she tells me differently, I am going to stop looking for one.
because that was the best one I have found for all my criteria and it was only 2.5 hours from here. I think having to be 150 miles away from mini dealer for service, is a real downer, and may stop us from buying one, in the long run. but if the mini only needed oil changes and didnt have the maintenance warranty like the one I mentioned above, well I could do oil changes myself (right? or is it too difficult on the mini - since I dont have a lift)
oh well, finding and buying a mini just went down a lot lower on my todo list
So now I have two projects I want to tackle. The A/C compressor and repainting the "plastic/rubber" air damn on the 280.
BTW, I FINALLY finished the body work and paint work on the blazer rust repair, and there are several other places (all along bottom of drivers side door, and a few spots in the same places on the other side of blazer). I will upload a picture to a new question, so we can start discussing how to re-paint the air damn on the 280 since its already painted, and been on car for a few years. It doesnt have to be perfect, just so that it matches rest of car color.