Nissan Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Chat it is!
im typing on ,my little Eee PC from Asus
this body work is crazy!
a LOT of meticulous work, for these little spots
I just put some of that red glaze putty on there, and its drying fast cause there were only a few small pin holes
That meticulous work brings great finished product
That is great
What you do after you get it as best as you can, is wet sand the surface with 1500. That should give you a surface that will be perfect for painting over
I know the bondo patch isnt perfect, but it looks pretty close to orignal body shape, ya know. Cause its curved down in that area, and also its right up against the plastic fender flare. Talk about a challenge for a first time...geeeze
that sounds good, but I actually dont have 1500 :-( I got 1000 and 2000 but I dont think I got any 1500.
2000 will be ok
After you do that, and you only want to get it smooth, let it dry, then hit the area with primer
And I wasnt sure if I should fix up the other larger area first, and then fine sand the bondo? Guess it makes more sense to just finish the bondo work now, as you said with 1500 wet sanding by hand of couse
Use a prep agent first and remove any lint
Once you are happy with the primer coat, prep agent the surface again, and begin your color coat
should I use the 2000 to sand down the red glazing putty ? with wet sanding?
Yes, that would work well
ok, I havent wet sanded before, but I watch Mike and Edd everyday, really I do,. And I have seen Edd do that
so I know what it looks like
we are probably talking about a minute or less of wet sanding, I mean its already pretty smooth,. in fact the bondo already looks way smoother than all the other paint I messed with, around it
Its nice because it takes the material off and creates and incredibly smooth surface without being aggressive
Yes, just enough to give you a smooth surface, and you don't have to worry about overshooting the old paint
And I will also wet sand the other little area, that I had highlighted in the yellow color, in the pcitures I uploaded
Just for fun I tried a little 2000, dry, around the other little spot, and it seems like it barely doing anyting at all
well anyway, now I know what to do about the bondo, and all in all, that shouldnt take me long to prepare.
It is extremely fine. You can use a more aggressive sandpaper to get you close, then use the wetsanding to take it the rest of the way
It is so fine, that to cut down significant material will take a long time
but wait, 1 thing, you said
can U explain what prep agent I need to use?
I bought dawn soap, somone else said dawn soap, but now I cant remember if they meant that was only for the non bondo areas or what
They sell products that you wipe over the area about to be painted and it will remove any oils, lint or inpurities from the surface. I bought some product at home depot when I redid my baseboards. When that dries, the surface is ready to accept paint.
do you mean PRE from eastwood?
I haqve that stuff
That would be exactly what you want
and also, what do I use to wipe it with? cause if you used a rag, it would leave dust, if you used paper towel, even the blue shop towels, it will leave behind paper material
(great news on the PRE) :-)))) I got a whole shiny bottle waiting to be used
its from a year or two ago tho...when I was messing with datsun
Use it before the primer, then before the paint
think it will be OK?
Also, find those anti static wipes
and also before the clear coat?
antio static wipes, like for a plasma TV?
They don't have to be this brand
oh I have tack clothes too, the guy at the auto paint store gave me some for free
is that what ya meant to use along with the PRE?
he said I would need them, but I didnt know for sure exactly when to use them, and if they would work with PRE cleaner or not.
After the PRE, but you can certainly use it with the PRE. It will wipe and discharge the surface. Then wipe again with a new cloth. Then your ready to paint
If you static the surface, you will attract dust into the paint or before the paint
I wasnt sure, from the bveginning what to use to wipe it clean, as in, a dry material., but that is what the tack cloth is for hehe
so I got what ya said locked in now.
However, the only problem is the rest of this 12" by 6" area that has to be prepped. I am still at a loss as to how to deal with that....
You can wetsand that area too and prep it the same way
I do understand now, how to wet sand bondo, how to paint, how to use PRE, when to use tack cloth. So I got all that. BUt also one other thing, do I need to wet sand in between the primer gray coats? and wet sand in between the factory brown color coats?
Treat it all like one surface
and do I wet sand clear coats???
You certainly can
but do I have to :-)
Im afriad I will end up dong more damage than good, but I also believe that Edd wet sands in between coats, If I remember correctly, but he is a pro. I cant be any more of a noob at this
I would not wetsand between coats. Wetsand at the end
And also that wet sanding in between each paint coat, makes the next coat stick better, which is what I want of course.
but that is why I am asking :-)
I see what ya just said, and it sounds like I dont have to wet sand in between coats. That would be a relief!!!!
You definitely can, but the real advantage is to remove any dust and dirt that lands in the paint
you mean wet sanding in between coats is to remove dust and dirt that got on there during painting???
and it doesnt effect paint adhesion?
Otherwise, follow the instructions on the product for recoating
I dont want to do that, I just want to talk to you ;-)
well, OK, I will at least read the instructions the paint shop guy gave me, for the paint products. Its like 4 pages long or something
Always look at the instructions. Sometimes there are windows that recoating can occur in, if not in those windows, a waiting time before recoating
I found that out the hard way with a Pinebox derby car
Even if it doesnt look perfect, I mean, I gotta keep this in perspective ...I just wanted to get rid of that ugly rust spots, and I already have more work to do on the bottom of the doors, and a rust spot on the other side.
so if the paint doesnt look perfect, I honestly dont care. I will never be selling this truck, nor trading it in. Sooooooooo I am not saying I want to take any shortcuts, I am just saying I am already OK with how to turns out
Gotcha...I promise I will read the instructions, and if needed call the paint guy, he said I can call him anytime. He is the one I bought the paint gun from,. So in order to actually paint, now I have to learn how to operate that thing tooooooooooo
it will come out good enough, and you may surprise yourself as to how good it comes out. You can wetsand and polish the finished coat and make it flawless after it cures
He put reducer in the brown paint, and said the clear coat and gray primer are already set to be used, but the brown color needed reduces and he did that for free for me.
Ivan, once again, you are teaching me lifetime skills that will serve me well on my future cars that I will be working on, and I thank you ahead of time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I am very excited about all of this, and it is nerve racking because I want to get this first job over with so I can see how it turns out, but I will not sacrifice time or quality, I am heeding everything you are telling me. So it can be as good as it can be, with my limited body working skills right now
well, I dont want to get any further ahead of myself, If we can just discuss one other thing 2night, I know its getting late
I will get my chance with my 65 Malibu. I actually am considering picking a car like I had in high school and playing with the body making it like the one I had too.
I'm going to look at it over the next couple of days
Also, will you be around tomorrow night and friday night, because I will be doing more each night, and have a few other questoins. And then on saturday and sunday (weather premitting) I need to paint this thing. and of course mask EVERYTHING Off, and paint outside,. I am going to make a shoddy plastic paint booth around the area to paint, to help keep at least some dust dirt and bugs off of itm, while each coat dried.
yes, I'll be around
(you should do that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! get the high school car)
I had a 1971 Torino GT and have been half looking. I found a 1971 Torino 500 that bizarrely has the same mileage as mine did when I bought it many moons ago
Different roof line but close enough
My car in high school was an old brown duster., At least it didnt have any rust on it. Parents bought it for me. I almost bought an orange 67 or 68 camaro from a friend for 700$, but my parent would not let me have it. It ran OK believe it or not, I got to cruise some girls around it, and scared the hell out of some friends too
its probably best I didnt get that car. their wisdom saved my life.
Funny, my parents blocked some purchases too, but my father liked this car which was around the corner. It ended up being a really cool car that is well remembered by my former classmates
I usd to get airborne in the duster....I will just leave it at that.
I wanted my Uncle's 73 Nova SS, but he wouldn't sell it to me
I had a 78 Volare that had bumpers that line up with my friends Toyota pick up
We used to bumper bash each other everwhere
my wife had an orange volarie too!!!! Dont remember what year it was though. It kind of reminded me of my duster
so I laugh when I see dusters at car shows, cause it reminds me of my crazy youth
I had two 15" subwoofers and huge speakers in the back of that thing. People would get in there, and I would crank it up and their eyes would get the size of pie plates, I think I even scared some people
Mine was a 4 door, slant six with a 3spd on the floor and manual steering. I put speakers in every door, under the seats, in the trunk all powered by sparkomatic power boosters
the more the better
we are not always the smartest at 17
yeah exactly, I got these two alpine 12" subs just sitting here!
I want to put them in the blazer. THere are those four mounting holes or clasps in the back for tying stuff down. I may remove those, and use them to hold down the double wide sub box that I know how to build correclty now
]I can put digital amp under the seat somewhere in blazer
I just dont want to drill any holes into the blazer, so I have to secure it somehow, and that could work
cant have a 100 pound wood box go flying if an accidnet happens, although if it was bad enough it might go flying anyway :-(
oh well, now I am getting way from the topic,,,,hehe, sorry about that
I did want to discuss one other part of the job, so maybe I can juyst work over the next two days, and then talk to you on friday before I am ready to paint
I do believe I understand everything else that needs to happen, and in what sequence to do stuff in. However, I am really hung up on sanding that whole larger area that I am going to repaint. Since there are some spots that are scratched, some spots that are down to brown paint, some spots down to gray primer,,,etc. AAnd I dont want to keep sanding like all the way down to the metal, or even to the original primer. So this may be where I just have to rough up the rest of the surface with the Stage 3 scotch brite, and then repaint
Use the wetsanding to smooth it out. It will cut down the scratches and even things out
but, you see, its complicated, a little, because I know I have to use primer over the bondo areas, but I think if I only roughed up surface with scotch brite ...then I dont thnk you want me to start painting over that area withgray primer do you?
The wetsanding will even the surfaces. Do it until you cant tell the difference
so if I wet sand with 1500 or 2000 (which?) that will smooth all of that out
Then when you prime it, it will be invisible
Both will be ok. 1500 is courser but marginally
well I will just get that, if you want me to use that
so I will be wet sanding that whole area. Should I use some masking tape at the top of the area, so I dont keep going and going and going....into the area that I dont want to repaint?>
its like once I start sanding, I cant stop, because I just keep moving into a new area no matter how careful I am
Yes, tape where you don't want to touch and the associated moldings so they wont get scuffed
Also tape the companion edges at the fender and rear door
yeeah I already scuffed a little part of the plastic fending, but it aint that noticable
its 14 years old ....
So, ok I will tape areas I dont want to touch, but that will make a "line" I suppose. Since I am not good at this
and I will use back masking, to hopefully help me feather the paint over that line (I taped off when wet sanding)
You will be better than you think
wow, Ivan, I think I understand everything that needs to be done, at least understand well enough.
It will come out great
I know you probably think I am a little whacky for asking so many questions, but dont you agree this is a very meticlous process the frist time a person is going through all of this
Do you honestly after all we have been through, that I think you are wacky...
I cant wait to finish this, because then I am going to practice paint a little on the old jeep hood, and then take off the air damn on the 280 and repaint it. I cannot wait to do that, because its not the same color as the rest of the car. I didnt realize when I told them to paint the air dam 510 blue, that the rest of the car wasnt 510 blue. And I will get a scan of the custom color and then the paint shop will make me paint, and then i will talk to you about how to deal with that little project. Which will be a lot lot lot easier than this project. Because all I need to do is probably scuff it up and repaint it the new color
(HEHE to what cha said)
it is empowering
I just feel bad for having to ask so many questoins, but I truely want to know how to do this stuff as much as possible, the right way!!!!
and yes, all that you have taught me has been amazing, I count my blessings for all that I have learned from you!
This will come out great
I have so many painting projects to do, now that you are teaching me, and it will cost a LOT less money to do all this myself, I will save 1000's of dollars easily
and I can kepe the blazer on the road another season or two :-)
without nasty rust spots.
As smaller ones appear, I will be able to fix them
well anyway, you better get out of here before I talk your ears off any more than I already have
Funny! Ok, have a great night, and yell when you need me
I wil send a new message after I have completed as many of the tasks you gave me to do 2night!!!!
thanks and good night
cool. I'm writing a paper, so I'll be up for a while longer yet
Looks like this one isnt in chat anymore., Im trying to figure out their logic of how they do things like this on this site. Since I accepted it, I think it went out of chat mode. Lets see if you get notified of this one? If not, welllllll I will just start a new nissan question, because that allowed us into this chat session for this questions. I have to remember that, its nissan that has chat.
Its about 80 degrees outside, partly cloudy, and humdity seems kind of high, how much will humidity effect my painting??? I have no choice but to paint it outside. Wondering how that will effect it. Its going to rain possibly all weekend, so I am ready to paint. I just stopped by the autp paint shop on lunch break and asked Sandy to check out the work, she said it was perfect, and I did I really good job :-)
BUt my other question to you is about how to handle the top portion of the paint job. I know I want to back mask it, but this is something that will be a lot easier to discuss in a chat window. I will look to see if you are online now
since I have a 1/2 pint of paint, and only a small area to paint, I am going to blast a little paint on a flat MDF board (since that is a smooth surface) just to see how it lays down. The recommend psi at the paint gun is 10 psi, but sandy at the paint shop said that is probably way too low. She said I should try something like 20 or 25 psi to start with. Because the psi effects how the paint lays down. I never knew that. But she did caveat that, with the fact that 10 psi might actually be right. So I am wondering what you think I should use for the psi. I have a pressure guage right at the paint gun. And I also know that the psi reduces a little when it gets to the nozzle. But they said 10 psi in the information about the paint.
Now, actually the psi might be different for the clear coat and the gray primer. I actually dont have the cans in front of me. But I think there are basic directions on back of the cans. I will jog out there and see.
The blazer in in back yard, and I going to make a little spray booth around it. Which is just a wood frame with plastic draped over it. Its like 6 foot wide by 5 foot tall. So I figure that will help keep bugs and dust off of it, while the paint is drying. And I have a clean tarp under that area of the car, so no bugs and dust can come up from the ground
I know you and they told me to paint the first coat gently and lightly, and then the second coat try to fill it in, and 3rd coat if needed. I also found out I am not supposed to sand the color coats. Only the primer is to be wet sanded, if I feel it needs it. With 2000 wet sand paper. I used some wet sanding last night
humidty is only about 50%, so I guess its not as bad as I thought. If I cant finish all the painting, and am left with the clear coat to do, can I drive it in rainy conditions before clear coat or is that a bad idea?
Im racing against the clock today. And I think I remember that the final brown color has to dry for 4 hours before clear coating. And I may have ever heard or read, that its better if I waited until the next day to clear coat it. but that is gonna be a real pain if I have to do that.
Will you be around the next 24 hours on here, Im going to be a little needy I think. To get me through this, who knows what I will encounter. Or maybe it will go easy. I can see either way.