Reading the codes doesn't work that way anymore in an ODB2 car, it was a trick for some older ODB1 vehicles. ODB2 took over in 1996, and covers so many more codes than ODB1 that making a flash sequence ID for them all would not be feasible.
You can have the codes read at most auto parts stores or repair shops, most of them won't charge you anything to just read the code. Many cheaper handheld scanner tools will not read ABS codes, but some better ones do. They should be able to give you a description of the code too, and when you get the code, you can return here and we will be able to help you further troubleshoot it.
If you want to check some basic mechanical stuff first, trace the ABS wheel sensor wires and make sure they are ok. Also check the wheel bearings for play, by jacking one wheel in the air at a time and tugging and pulling on the wheel, to feel any play in the bearing. A very worn bearing can allow the ABS sensor and trigger wheel to actually come in contact with each other and break stuff.
I can't remember if your car has the toothed ABS trigger wheels or rings visible from the backside of the wheel hub, but if they are, look for cracked rings or dirt stuck in between the teeth. This all would be a massive waste of your time if you don't have the code, the code usually tells you WHICH wheel signal is missing or wrong, etc... in case it is a wheel sensor problem in the first place. (It could be something else).
The standard of error codes covers some ABS codes too, while any manufacturer may have their own additional codes. The standard codes are in the group called Chassis codes:
The ABS light being on also means that the ABS system has turned itself OFF as a safety measure, so you are now driving on regular brakes, which may lock the wheels when you hit the pedal hard enough. Drive safe.