Hello, my name is XXXXX XXXXX I am here to assist you
Let me see what we can see here...the fuse that blows is a 15A that says woofer/amp...hum...let me look for that fuse.
I see that you are there: Can you tell me the fuse number and which box it is in?
fuse is not numbered- the box is beside glove box
Thanks let me pull up a picture of that fuse panel and then we can count positions and see which one it is
Are there 24 spaces for fuses in this panel and 2 harness connectors above them?
2 rows of 13 fuses & 2 harnesses
Ok, you are correct and I don't remember how to count....actually the numbering system skips over the fuse tha has a plastic holder around it (8th from the left in the top row) and that threw off my counting technique.
the fuse that is blowing is 6 from left on bottom row
Ok, that is fuse #17..let me pull up that circuit
Fuse 17 is only powering the audio amplifier in the center of the dash. Unfortunately that doesn't help us much...let me ask you this: has anything been added to the vehicle?
only command star 6 months ago
Unfortunately I am not familiar with command star...can you fill me in?
Ultra Start is the brand of command start-
Is it perhaps Command Start
Ok..I get it now.
I have a feeling that they may have pulled power from the green/white wire that comes off of this fuse...Can you see the Command Start module and follow the wires to see if that may be the case?
power wires are tied directly to the heavy grren wire at the ignition switch
and the command start has worked properly since installed
Does it work now?
I know, that sounds like a stupid question
well nothing works now because there is no power- the door locks work until the fuse blows when trying to srtat
Ok...give me the whole run down of things that go inoperative
everything seems to work when you install a new fuse- when the fuse blows the only things that work are the interior lights-
door locks also work from switch on the door
Let me see if I get this because I am struggling with the "everything" as it doesn't specify anything. What you are telling me...I think...is that you get in the car and turn the key to the on position and you don't see anything in the instrument cluster as well as not being able to crank the vehicle to start it. You also identify that the key-on items are inoperative such as the power windows, the lighting system, the radio..etc. Am I good so far.
when fuse is blown you are correct
with new fuse all key-on items work until you try to start the engine
Ok, we must go back to the ignition switch...your fuse thing is really throwing us a curve ball but we need to look at what is happening at the power source for all the key on items
You saw the green wire there...can you check and see if it has 12 volts to it with that fuse blown?
with fuse blown there is no power at the igniyion switch (on that green wire)
Ok, let me ask another dumb question...did you by any chance jump start the vehicle?
Now let's look at a 40 amp fusible link under the hood
In the fuse box at the right rear of the engine compartment
it is good we checked it- that's the one labelled "ignition switch" right?
Yes, that should be the one...but it is also the only source of power to the green wire at the ignition switch so now I need you to see if (aside from the fuse looking good) there is power in and power out of that 40 amp ignition switch fuse
give us a few minutes please and we will check
the fuse is good- but no power to the fuse
only reading 1-3 volts
battery reads almost 12 volts
not 1-3 but 1.3
Ok. Now I need you to go to the fuse box right by the battery and check the 100 amp fusible link "E"
i minute please
there is a 140 amp main fuse on the
positive post- faces up- it is blown
must have been a massive short to blow that
Ok, that is what you latest problem is...now we need to understand why...
I was expecting you to answer earlier that you had jump started the vehicle because that is the typical reason for blowing this fuse and then I would have gone straight to it.
it looks ok but 12V to one side and zero on the other side
Since you say you did not jump start the vehicle now we have to figure out what is blowing such a major fuse
You say it looks ok....could it have been jump started earlier and somebody did and "ooops" ?
was a cold weather start- -23 Celsius (aqbout -10 F) and vehicle was not indoors or plugged in
nobody jump started it- it has never been jump started & I have never boosted anybody else
One thing- when I tried to start the truck with the remote it did start- I was inside and heard it start- when I went out 5 minutes later it was not running- I thought that was strange- but it had started then I guess the fuse blew
Ok, it is possible that the fuse was overheated by working too hard too long at that time but not blown and that it finally gave out. I am leary to just put a fuse in so what I typically do is force the remaining pieces of the fuse together enough to make contact and then prove that everything works and nothing blows it again, after that you can replace it.
would it be starter related- maybe it didn't disengage or something?
we tried disconnecting the wires to the starter but the 15A fuse still blows- but that is because the 140 Amp fuse is blown correct?
The starter main cable is sourced directly from the battery and does not go through that 140 amp fuse so I don't think it was the starter, just bend the pieces together and try to start the vehicle and let's see what happens.
Yes...don't worry about the 15 amp fuse...
If we replace the 140 we will watch & listen to the starter to see if that is a possible source- or am I off track?
That one is simply blowing because it is back feeding current to the ignition switch which then tries to use it to start the car
I don't think the starter will be your cause because it is not fuse protected. The alternator is the only unprotected device that hooks to that particular fuse.
ok- there is no short in the starter- we have an 80 amp fuse and when we tried it with the 80 amp and got starter connection but now battery is low
You may have a shorted alternator or simply a fuse that was somehow somewhen damaged and finally gave out.
should we try to boost it with the 80 amp in?
Once you get the fuse in there and everything operational it would be good to know what the alternator is doing...if it is overcharging at any point in time it could be damaging that fuse.
so boost or not?
You should be ok with the 80 amp fuse in there to get it going as long as you hook up to the battery with nothing turned on and then try it.
ok 2 minutes please
truck started & ran
Hey, that is wonderful
I am glad I could be of assistance
Make sure you have the charging system checked
Thanks for the question
Please use the accept button to complete the process
Have a good day
REAL GOOD service- I love my NISSAN and this service makes me want to buy again- Thanks Alan
Your welcome and thank you