Hi there! So the check engine light is still on with a crank sensor code? Even after replacement?
Went off for a while, then came back on. Tried a second sensor to make sure the other wasn't bad and same thing happened.
ok, you replaced the crank sensor a second time? On the back side of the engine?
Yes, I don't know where on the engine . I'm just getting my answers from the mechanic when I call for status of my car. He has had it for 4 days and no fix.
Ok, I think I would start with an idle relearn on the throttle body and check the fuel pressure. Make sure it is up to 36 psi when you start the car. Here is the idle relaern procedure
1. Perform "Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning".
a. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
b. Turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait at least 2 seconds.
c. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' wait at least 10 seconds.
d. Turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait at least 2 seconds.
e. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' wait at least 10 seconds.
2. Perform "Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning" .
b. Turn ignition switch 'ON'.
Make sure that throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch 'OFF' and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch 'ON' and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following procedure quickly five times within 5 seconds.
a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal.
b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
7. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the MIL stops blinking and turned ON.
8. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the MIL goes off.
9. Start engine and let it idle.
10. Wait 20 seconds.
11. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure that idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
12. If idle speed and ignition timing are not within the specification, the result will be incomplete. In this case, more test needs to be done.
If he starts here then it resets it so it should stay running when you start it.
I will call him and have him do this and let you know how it turns out.
If this doesn't work, what other tests need to be done?
I would do a fuel pressure test. If it still has the crank sensor code, make sure they are replacing the one on the back of the engine block and not the one on the cylinder head. The one on the head is the cam position sensor.
Actually, they have replaced both. After they replaced the Cam position sensor, the car started 10 times fine on the 11th the problem returned. They checked the codes and this time it was showing a crank sensor so they replaced that as well and it still dies after starting. Once you get it running everything runs fine.
Ok, I realize they contacted the dealer, but you should contact them with the VIN. There was a recall for both sensors and it included reprograming the ecm. They can run the vin and see if there are any open recalls
and if the light is off now, the relearning the throttle body may be all it needs
Already done that and no recalls. ECM was reprogramed 2 years ago as part of a recall. He has done 3 different re-learns and has checked the fuel pressure and it is fine. He also sees fire when trying to start. He is going to try a throttle body something ($250 part) just to see if it makes a difference.
Also said dealer gave him some pin points to check as well
Ok, as long as the recall has been done. I suspect he is going to replace the throttle body. It has possibilities if the relearn is not working.
What next if that doesn't work? Have you experienced this problem?
Does the car have to be left over night for this to happen?
No. Anytime you start the car. As long as you depress on the gas after your turn the ignition and gun it a couple of time it stays running and has never died at an intersection. Last week I pressed the petal a little too early and flooded it out and it wouldn't start at all. Hoped in my Bfriends truck and went to work. Came home and turned the key, gave it gas and it started. This is what my mechanic finds odd is that it will run and not die after you start it. You just have to give it gas to get it running.
Just thought you might want to know the outcome on my car. Seems that it has jumped timing by 2 teeth. It's a wonder it runs at all and didn't mess up my valves & pistons. Have to replace the timing chain and all that goes along with that to the tune of $924.00. Naturally mine wouldn't be a simple fix like cam & crank sensors. That is why they didn't fix the problem!
Thanks for your input!