I am having headlight problems with my 2007 G35 sedan. Both high and low beams are not working. Dealer said it was a shorting ballast on the drivers side, and the fuses being blown. I do not understand why this would also make the passenger headlight not work. I want to understand before I spend money on a ballast. I forgot to add that car was recently jump started, which I think has caused the issue. I was hoping it was only fuses, but dealer says it is not.
Hello my name is XXXXX XXXXX XXXXX you for your question.
I know you have 4 fuses in the IPDM for left front low beam, left front high beam, right front low beam and right front high beam.
were all of these fuses checked?
According to the dealer, they were all checked and the drivers side were repeatedly blowing. There was no indication that there was a problem with the passenger side fuses. This is why I am questioning the dealer's diagnosis as both lights are not working and this is inconsistent with the design of the car, in my opinion.
I have another call into the dealer to confirm as the tech who worked on the car was not present when I picked up my car. I will update with any new information as I receive it.
Do the day time running lights work as they should?
I am currently working so excuse my late replies.
Yes, the DRL lights are working.
Attached is the write up from my dealer.
Thank you for that
That does help cause I know exactly what they did which helps me to answer your question.
It sounds to me like it could very well be a shorted Ballast for the left head light.
The only thing I would like to know is if they unplugged the Ballast and turned the lights on if the fuse did not blow.
Cause that would verify a shorted ballast.
But your saying the passenger head light stops working as well correct?
There was no notes on the passenger head light?
I just got off the phone with them and they think that the ground fault created by the drivers headlight is also blowing the fuses on the passenger light.
Their testing says everything is fine with the passenger side, but I don't think they got it to work with the drivers side disconnected.
The Passenger side should operate if you have the left light unplugged
Thats what I thought. That is why I am having anxiety about the ballast being the only issue.
Yeah, something isn't making sense
I can understands the shorted ballast on the drivers side due to a voltage spike! but if the fuse is not blowing for the passenger light, it should operate.
They seem to think that the left side is blowing the passenger side through the same ground fault. As you can see, their description on the work order was pretty vague. Through interrogation, they now seem to be saying that the passenger fuses were blown and only get blown again when the drivers light is reconnected.
Car is still at the dealer?
Nope. I took it back yesterday.
How handy are you?
Do you think if I ask you to do somethings you could?
cause it's pretty complicated.
Just trying to get a idea of your skill level
what do you suggest?Fairly handy.
First I would like to know if you have a Volt meter
I would like to access the back of the head lights and check voltage to the Ballast
but it's going to require access to the IPDM as well to check fuses
I do have a multimeter.
Test light also?
DC test light? No.
I could certainly get one, for what I can save by doing this myself.
The left front wheel needs to be removed so the front inner fender liner can be removed to access the back of the head light.
The ballast plug is only a two wire connector if I remember right
So I want to unplug it, change the fuse and measure the voltage.
The IPDM is kinda next to the battery.
You will need to remove that whole battery covers and the passenger side wiper cowl to access it
It has a pinch tab to slide it up and two pinch tabs on the bottom of it to release the cover to access the IPDM
It does pull out enough that you can lay it by the battery with out disconnecting it.
I am currently working, if you can start this later towards the evening when I am online the most that would be best
I am normally online around 6 or 7 pm EST till 10 or 11 pm
This way I am online to assist you.
I don't want you to start and get stuck waiting for me if you need the car.
LoL. No problem. Can I reach teh ballast plug from teh top, if I remove the drivers air intake?
you have to remove the inside fender lineer
The lights are a pain in the @#$ to access
changing them you have to remove the bumper cover.
Ok, thanks. Talk to you later.
You got it. Just reply back to me when your ready, and I will continue to help you.
Talk to you later this evening. Thanks Jay!
Jay, I tried a little bit of trouble shooting to verify the dealers claims. Of the 4 headlight fuses, the driver Low (15a) was indeed blown. All the others were fine.
I left the fuses for the drivers side out and tried with only passenger side fuses. Again, no passenger headlight.
I am still highly suspicious as to what could be the problem, but I suspect one blown ballast is illogical.
One blown ballast does sound like it could be correct
it's the passenger side light which has me confused.
Did you check to see if that ballast was getting 12 volts?
Also did you check the drivers side ballast to see if that was getting 12 volts with a good fuse?
no, I did not.
It's after 11 pm now, and I will be getting off line.
ok, so if I want to check the voltage, I pull the wheel and inside cover, yank the hl cover out and pull the line off the ballast?
If you can verify the drivers side head light fuse does not blow with the ballast unplugged, then you know it's a shorted ballast
ok, so unplug the ballast with fresh fuses and try the light
Unplug the ballast, put a good fuse in, turn the lights on and check the fuse first to see if it blew. If it didn't then measure power at the ballast
If the fuse did not blow, you know it's a shorted ballast
ok. for the left that makes sense. its the right that's killing me.
At the same time, check the passenger side ballast for power also. It could be a simple bulb is blown maybe for that side.
Yeah, it's possible that ballast maybe blown, but not have a internal short. That is why I want to check that ballast and see if it's getting power as well.
If it's getting power, and the fuse is not blown, rule of thumb is to put a bulb in. If the bulb doesn't work, then it's a bad ballast.
ok, I'll try these. thank you for all your time. i'm a little dense with dc electrics. how do I check dc voltage with a multimeter?
last question, I swear.
Just take the red probe and put it into the connector and same with the black probe
I bet if you look on You Tube there is a video on how to use a meter that would show you.
ok, will do that to be sure. thanks for all your help.
Not that I can't tell you, it's just late as hell and sometimes video's are better to understand than a tired typer
I will be online again tomorrow evening around 6 or 7 pm EST till 10 or 11 pm if you have any more questions on this.
g'nite jay and thanks again.
Follow up: 12V of power to the passenger side ballast so I suspect that it is gone too, but not shorting out the fuses. Looks like I'll be replacing two ballasts now.