Motorcycle Questions? Ask a Mechanic.
Hi Dane and welcome to JustAnswer,Thank you for the question and your patience. Should you still need assistance for information purposes only...Initially, bear with me and post back with what are the available wire colors on the bike that go to these 2 connectors.
In turn, I would check the available wiring diagrams at my end and/or pictures of actual connectors to see which would match (depending on the version).
Still, please click HERE for 1 version.
Thanks Dane and unfortunately, no direct match to any of the available pinout diagrams/pictures.
Still, I am back tracing the wiring.
Please post back with the complete wiring diagram and if available, the page containing the 'Junction Box Internal Circuit'.
If it's alright with you Dane, when able.
Actually, working on an available pinout diagram BUT would want to confirm the wire colors by manually tracing each wire from pin to end.
Let me send you what I am working on and we can run parallel tracing/confirmation.
Please click HERE.
...and it matches your junction box.
Bear with me further.
Using this as template, then reference the internal circuit of the junction box + clear wiring diagram, then...
Confirming would be a matter of getting the function of a pin...
Per your last post, that's what I am hoping to populate. Click HERE.
Hence the need for a clear wiring diagram based on your initial attachment.
I believe I have that Service Manual for the 87-99 of your last screenshot.
Let me run this confirmation using the diagram that I have.
Post back with your diagram when able please. It would validate my findings.
The last time I did this was configuring two (2) single cylinder CDIs to run an NSR-250. Pretty much the same except the NSR had a PGMi to factor in.
...and then transplanting a lot of electrical parts on other bikes/models as replacement are not readily available in my location.
And appreciate your kind understanding (...read patience) as it takes time to trace and confirm.
When able; I'm using my copy of the 87-99 SM as basis to get things going.
For some reason, p. 433 is missing.
And my update, click HERE. Please note, partially completed still subject to verification.
Thanks; would post again soon as verified.
That would be based on the connector pin assignment of the junction box itself.
"...http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/motoforge/2009-05-27_013436_vn1500junctionbox.jpg...The top one is my junction box..."
Just 1 wire color that's confusing. While I have figured out the two (2) white/blue wires (and all others), the 2 black/white wires (based on the wiring shown HERE) are causing a mixup.
...an update/status report.
For test purposes, temporarily disconnect pins 7, 8 & 17.
Confirm internally the presence and status of the headlight relay and the two (2) diodes connected to it using the Ω function of a multi-meter.
Sorry; yes nothing on the 7.
Still, please re-confirm; 17 would have the red/blue wire.
Sorry, but what does "...Nothing again on 17 ..." mean?
Bear with me Dane with the specifics; "...It's not reading anything. Stays at 1..."
Does it read 1Ω? ...or does 1 mean no continuity on your meter?
1Ω is a significant reading as it indicate close to full continuity to something.
Let's try this; short the black and red probes together. What is the reading/display?
And what model is your meter please?
Please reference the earlier posted wire colors @ "...http://www.justanswer.com/uploads/motoforge/2009-05-27_013436_vn1500junctionbox.jpg...The top one is my junction box..."
Note that pin 17 is connected to pins 6 & 7.
With the meter set to Ω, black probe to pin 17:
And would the earlier description of "...constant lights, and running lights..." only be with the engine running? ...or even with engine not running but ignition switched On?
Please re-wire as provided in the last pinout wiring.
Then disconnect some of the wires 1 at a time...disconnect the white wire.
Check for any reaction(s):
Plug back in this white wire and then disconnect the white/blue and observe the same.
Then the other white /blue wire.
Then the brown/white wire.
...then the yellow wire
...and finally the red/blue wire.
I understand.......and back to the drawing board.
Still, other than the white wire (please disconnect temporarily) do all other wiring/pinout work as expected?
Have you re-check the two (2) black/white wires?
(A possibility) Have you tried swapping the the pin connections of the black/white wires?
And is there IGN+12 at the black/red wires of the ignition coils?
Would the starter motor spin if attempted to START?
Is there IGN+12 at the black/red wires of the ignition coils?
Please attempt a start with the clutch lever pulled in and side stand folded up.
Bear with me again; would be mobile briefly but expect to be back in an hour or so.
The black wire of the ignition coil is not to be grounded; it is an output of the igniter (together with the black green wire) that drives in the ignition coil to produce spark.
With or without the junction box (wired in), the neutral light with a good bulb and IGN+12 on its brown wire should work by itself together with the neutral sensor/switch.
Please check the black/light green wire from the neutral sensor/switch that is connected to a light green wire that turns on/off the neutral indicator. Grounding either wire should make the neutral light lit up.
Hi again Dane,
Do you still need help with the "10 and 8 pin connectors" ?
Hopefully, the above service information may serve your purpose and would appreciate a Positive Rating and/or an Accept (if haven't done so).
Good luck and thank you too for the opportunity to be able to share the information.
For a no-spark issue with a Kawasaki VN1500-A1, proposed preliminary tries (if have not been done):
Appreciate the update now and again when able.
The ignition coil's secondary winding would read very high Ω.
Not that often that both coils would go bad at the same time.
Still, yes please; an update when able.
Yes; well 2-3 likely pins as the white is an always available +12. Was hoping to have a running engine to test 'theories'