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Ask Kenny O. Your Own Question
Kenny O.
Kenny O., Motorcycle, ATV, Mules, Side by Side's Product Specialist. All Brands
Category: Motorcycle
Satisfied Customers: 953
Experience:  Worked for Kawasaki Motors as a Product Support Specialist (Factory Support) for 24 years
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I have a 2009 Vulcan 900. It only has about 4200 miles.

Customer Question

I have a 2009 Vulcan 900. It only has about 4200 miles. Recently it developed a starting problem. On the speedometer are two lights. Oil and fuel injection lights. When I turn the key to start position and both lights come on the bike will start. If I turn the key on and only the oil light comes on the bike just cranks. There is no rhyme or reason for this. Any ideas??
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Motorcycle
Expert:  Kenny O. replied 1 year ago.

Hi my name is ***** ***** sure if I'm understanding you correctly, when you turn the key on, without starting, both lights come on, correct ? but is it intermittently that sometimes when you go to start the engine only the oil light is on, but the unit will not start then ? Please clarify that ?

Also is there any modifications to the engine management including exhaust and intake ?

and do you have access to a multi-meter (volt meter)

Thanks

Kenny

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I Kenny. This is an intermittent problem. There are times when i turn the key on to start it that it just cranks and there are times when it starts right up. The times that it starts right up I noticed that both those lights initially go on. On the times when it just cranks I noticed that only the oil light is on.
Expert:  Kenny O. replied 1 year ago.

OK, good, do you have a multi-meter ?

and any mods to what I asked ?

Thanks

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No I don't. But my bike is at friends repair shop. He might. If u tell me what to do.
Expert:  Kenny O. replied 1 year ago.

OK, I want him or you to check the battery, please do exactly what I have below

You’ll need a multi-meter and set it to VDC, and since we are only testing the battery (12 volts) you can set it on the scale accordingly.

  1. Key off, we need to establish “battery” voltage, take a measurement and record it.

  2. Key on, observe the voltage drop with the key on, and record it.

  3. Key on, not while observing your meter, attempt to start the engine and observe the voltage drop, and record that. If your meter doesn’t have a peak voltage setting, you might have to do this a few time.

Once you get the results, please get back to me.

Thanks

Kenny

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Kenny it won't be till tomorrow. How do I get back to you?
Expert:  Kenny O. replied 1 year ago.

Same as today, just come back to this question and we'll continue !

Thanks

Kenny

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Thank you so much.
Expert:  Kenny O. replied 1 year ago.

OK, good deal !

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Kenny I'm going there at 1 o'clock tomorrow. I'll text u then. Thanks again
Expert:  Kenny O. replied 1 year ago.

OK

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hey Kenny. With my bike now. The test reads 12.03 at rest, 11.80 key on 9.9 cranking. We also hooked up a booster box and readings were 12.68 at rest, 12.55 key on, 11.20 cranking. No start. Then box unhooked it starts. There is something going on and none of us here can figure it out
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Kenny just confirming you received the test results concerning my 09 Kawasaki 900
Expert:  Kenny O. replied 1 year ago.

OK first off you have a battery that is likely on its way out, when they drop below 10 volts then weird things start to happen on the ignition side, and if its internally shorted even with a jump I have seen abnormal things go on, so you really should start with a good battery.

OK what doe this mean, not sure if I understand what box ? "Then box unhooked it starts"

Thanks

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
We unhooked the Jumper box turned key on and it cranks. I Wait a couple of minutes turn key on bike starts
Expert:  Kenny O. replied 1 year ago.

I'm going to pull up the service manual, in the mean time have your guy remove the ground wire (-) from the battery to where it bolts up on the engine and have them clean that really good, and then when hes finished, then he needs to check the voltage drop again, then there should be a small wire (ground) black/yellow wire on big ground wire where it bolts to the battery, tell him to take a wire from the battery negative post and then find the black/yellow wire where it go into the ECU and tap into that wire, so what you are doing is running a direct ground wire from the battery to the ECU, this will eliminate a corroded splice in the main wiring harness.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I gotta tell u Kenny everything is all clean under here. No corrosion clean connections
Expert:  Kenny O. replied 1 year ago.

O, you need to run that jumper and see what that does, and I just got bombarded with questions but O ned to look at the wiring diagram and give you a few things to try, if it all checks goos then you could be looking at an ECU. give mw a little bit here.

Thanks

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ouch. If it's the ECU Okay they are about to close shop anyway. They were hanging for me. I'll wait to hear from u. Do you think I should just get it scanned?
Expert:  Kenny O. replied 1 year ago.

Also in the mean time you need to find an electronics store, you need to purchase a couple of 1/4 watt 100 ohms resistors, get those and then I will instruct you guy what to do with them, let me know when you get this resistors.

Thanks

Kenny