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P.J.
P.J., Technician
Category: Motorcycle
Satisfied Customers: 750
Experience:  10 years as a mechanic and fabricator in a privately owned, local, custom bike shop.
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I have a 2007 FLHTCUSE2 had to remove the ignition switch to

Customer Question

I have a 2007 FLHTCUSE2 had to remove the ignition switch to do other repairs. I have an alignment tool and it seems to be lined up, switch falls into place at fork lock . I reset key, I hear the sound. But when I turn switch when it gets to ignition the alarm chirps 1 time and no power to bike.
any ideas
I have found any bad fuses
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Motorcycle
Expert:  P.J. replied 1 year ago.

A little more information may be helpful.

  • Are you using a home made alignment tool or a tool manufacturer's tool?
  • While operating the switch with the alignment tool does the switch and bike act normally?
  • Does your switch have an electrical connection plugging directly into it or is there a short (6" or so) pigtail attached and then a plug connecting it to the bike?

Thanks, P.J.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Factory made tool, it seems to work as I turn switch, No burned fuses, I can put key switch back in, when I turn switch to ignition head light comes on but dash does not. Nothing arms and alarm chirps once. No peg tail it plugs directly in to bike
Expert:  P.J. replied 1 year ago.

Ok, you've got the "good" switch. There were two used and the other was very fragile and the knob was removed in a different way.

Knowing that yours is the good switch and it works with the tool then the problem has got to be in the knob installation. It can be damaged but it isn't nearly as likely to happen with it.

I'm sure since you have the tool you know this but I want to make sure you removed and installed the knob with the switch in the fork lock position. The reason for the long tool is that there are two levels of switching that takes place inside the bore of the switch. Each level controls one of the two power out wires. The bike's circuits are split between these two circuits. The knob is working one of them but not the other.

Is the knob retaining plate locking under the top groove of the cast aluminum "nut"? It sounds like the tip of the knob may not be engaging deep enough down in the switch. You can verify the output on both wires if you have a meter just to be sure what is going on. It may help make sense of the issue.

Thanks, P.J.

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