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yamsuzpolaris
yamsuzpolaris, Motorcycle Mechanic
Category: Motorcycle
Satisfied Customers: 156
Experience:  service technician on yamaha suzuki polaris products since early 70's. currently own and manage deal
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I have a 2000 suzuki quadmaster LT-500. it will crank but

Customer Question

i have a 2000 suzuki quadmaster LT-500. it will crank but will not start. it has no spark. i have replaced the CDI box, and coil. I also replaced the pick up coil and stator. But then i took the side cover back apart and found a lot of oil in it. could you please help me figure this out? i have a volt meter and a peak voltage adapter.
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Motorcycle
Expert:  yamsuzpolaris replied 1 year ago.

there is supposed to be oil in the stator housing and flywheel area. I once found something very unusual with a 400 Suzuki that didn't have spark. we did what you did and replaced all the components and absolutely couldn't figure out why no spark. then looked at the magnets in the flywheel very closely and found that the spacing between them was not the same between each of the magnets. the magnets are glued into the steel flywheel, and sometimes the glue lets go. when the flywheel spins then a few of the magnets can slide back and forth touching the ones on each side of it. when this happens the magnetic fields are not consistant, and the spacing of the magnets controls when the spark fires. so look very closely for this, maybe even poke at the magnets gently to see if any move. if this happens you must absolutely replace the flywheel, you cannot glue them cause it wont hold long.

also check to make sure wire harness is grounded properly, and engine is grounded properly to both frame and battery.

Mark

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Thank you Mark. I checked out the grounds. the frame and engine both have a ground running to the battery. also i looked at the flywheel. but i cant tell much about it. so here are some pictures. thanks

Expert:  yamsuzpolaris replied 1 year ago.

flywheel magnets not the problem. just gotta ask did you replace all components with new? if so, the only other part in the ignition circuit is the kill switch, ignition switch, and ignition fuse. check the fuse. this is a different fuse than the main fuse. when key is turned on you should have 12 volts on the orange wire to the fuse then 12 volts flows on orange/yellow stripe up to the kill switch. check for 12 volts at the orange/yel stripe at the kill switch going in and then coming out on the orange/white stripe wire and these are on the harness end of connectors. from there 12 volts goes into cdi to energize it. you could use a jumper wire and go from pos battery 12 volt directly to the orange/white stripe right where it plugs to the cdi box. you should have spark then as you will have bypassed the kill switch and wiring connectors to the kill switch. sometimes we see just packed dirt and corrosion not allow 12 volts to flow. recheck all cdi connection and wires from stator and trigger coil. but I'll bet you have bad circuit into or out of the kill switch cause this completes the circuit to energize the cdi box.

Mark

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

Hello Mark. I check the things you asked me to. If I understand correctly the end of the kill switch and fuses is a orange wire with a white stripe that powers cdi box. If so I do have 12 volts on that wire going into the cdi box. But I still do not have spark. How about we back up and you tell me how to check the components? Like the pickup coil. It is new but just to incase. Thanks. Or if you know something else I could do just let me know. I will do whatever you think I need to.

Expert:  yamsuzpolaris replied 1 year ago.

in your first statement you said that you replaced several electrical components. which were new, which were obtained used? and were new original Suzuki factory parts or other brands?

Mark

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

stator and pick up coil is new from Electrosport. CDI box is used from ebay, listed as being off of a good running 2000 Suzuki Quadrunner 500. The Ignition coil is new from Suzuki dealer. Thanks

Expert:  yamsuzpolaris replied 1 year ago.

here is how to test the output from stator and pickuo or trigger coil. for testing unplug all stator leads from harness. pickup coil is blue wire and green wire. resistance is 150 - 300 ohms. infinity from either wire to ground. with stator harness unplugged , tester pos to green, tester neg to blue with engine cranking you should see 4.0v or greater on peak voltage. the power source coil for cdi unit is the yellow and the white wires. resistance should be .05 - 1.0 ohms. when engine cranking over you should see .3 volts with tester pos on yellow wire and tester neg on the white wire. also make sure that either white or yellow wires are infinity ohms to engine ground. then plug the stator harness back into the main harness and unplug the cdi unit from harness. the pickup coil wires at the cdi connector are green and a blue/green. do the same tests at these wires as earlier for the pickup coil. results should be exactly the same. the power source coil wires are yello and white/green stripe. again with cdi unplugged see if you get the same readings with the above described results from the power source coil. if you do then stator part is good and so are the connections to the cdi unit and harness. if all is correct this means that the stator charge and trigger pulses are reaching the cdi unit thru the wiring harness.

with the cdi unit still unplugged do a voltage read between the orange/white wire and the black/white stripe wire. with key on and kill switch in run you should see 12 volts. if you either turn key off OR kill switch off then voltage should go to zero. turn key on with kill switch on and you should see voltage come back to 12 volts. this means the battery is energizing the cdi box. if all these tests are good at the stator connector, but not at the cdi connector that means broken wire in the harness.

then move onto the ignition coil. unplug the coil harness connector. black/white stripe wire should be 0 ohms to ground with zero resistance. test peak voltage with pos test lead to ground and the neg test lead to the white/blue lead that plugs to the coil. coil should still be plugged into harness with spark plug in. when engine cranks you should see more than 150 volts. if you get this voltage then that means you have output from the cdi box and that component should be ok.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

hello mark. thank you for your patience! the stator and pick up coil all test good by your directions. also i am getting 12volts on orange with white stripe and black with white stripe at cdi box. and voltage goes on and off with key switch. then as i was following directions for testing ignition coil i noticed something. at the coil there is only one prong sticking out where the white with blue stripe goes. the black with white stripe connector is gets hanging there by the coil. also there is a black with green stripe hanging there with a longer pigtail on it. could this be a problem? thanks. also i followed the black with green stripe back and it goes to the cdi box

Expert:  yamsuzpolaris replied 1 year ago.

my schematic shows the coil should have 2 wires come out of it , or at least the black/white stripe wire should be grounded to the bolt that mounts the coil to frame. the black/green tripe wire plugs onto the coolant sensor mounted possibly on the head somewhere or on the thermostat housing area. take the black/white stripe wire and connect it to a bolt head that bolts coil to the frame. if you have spark that was problem. if not, possibly you got the wrong coil. compare to the one you took off the atv in the first place.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.

i cant seem to get the 150 volts a/c to the ignition coil on the white with blue stripe. with wire connected to coil. positive lead to good ground. negative lead to white with blue stripe. also black with white stripe has been bolted to bolt that holds coil on. could any of the other wires to the cdi box be causing it not to send the 150 volts a/c?

Expert:  yamsuzpolaris replied 1 year ago.

please recheck each and every step here as described earlier:

here is how to test the output from stator and pickuo or trigger coil. for testing unplug all stator leads from harness. pickup coil is blue wire and green wire. resistance is 150 - 300 ohms. infinity from either wire to ground. with stator harness unplugged , tester pos to green, tester neg to blue with engine cranking you should see 4.0v or greater on peak voltage. the power source coil for cdi unit is the yellow and the white wires. resistance should be .05 - 1.0 ohms. when engine cranking over you should see .3 volts with tester pos on yellow wire and tester neg on the white wire. also make sure that either white or yellow wires are infinity ohms to engine ground. then plug the stator harness back into the main harness and unplug the cdi unit from harness. the pickup coil wires at the cdi connector are green and a blue/green. do the same tests at these wires as earlier for the pickup coil. results should be exactly the same. the power source coil wires are yello and white/green stripe. again with cdi unplugged see if you get the same readings with the above described results from the power source coil. if you do then stator part is good and so are the connections to the cdi unit and harness. if all is correct this means that the stator charge and trigger pulses are reaching the cdi unit thru the wiring harness. with the cdi unit still unplugged do a voltage read between the orange/white wire and the black/white stripe wire. with key on and kill switch in run you should see 12 volts. if you either turn key off OR kill switch off then voltage should go to zero. turn key on with kill switch on and you should see voltage come back to 12 volts. this means the battery is energizing the cdi box. if all these tests are good at the stator connector, but not at the cdi connector that means broken wire in the harness. then move onto the ignition coil. unplug the coil harness connector. black/white stripe wire should be 0 ohms to ground with zero resistance. test peak voltage with pos test lead to ground and the neg test lead to the white/blue lead that plugs to the coil. coil should still be plugged into harness with spark plug in. when engine cranks you should see more than 150 volts. if you get this voltage then that means you have output from the cdi box and that component should be ok.

IF each component checks out OK in the stator and trigger coil, and you are getting the same results while checking them at the harness connector where it plugs onto the cdi box, and if voltage also tests good where it goes into the cdi box, then the only remaining item is either the harness connector wiring pins are not connecting properly inside the cdi box OR the cdi box is not functioning properly. would have to replace either or both. And also taking into account that the issue with ignition coil wiring is corrected and now proper. the only component in any system like this that cannot be tested is the cdi box, so its known that when all items that connect to the cdi box are functioning correctly the problem is the cdi box itself.