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Louie
Louie, Technician
Category: Motorcycle
Satisfied Customers: 12059
Experience:  25+ yrs. experience
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What is the most likely cause of overheating in a Polaris Rzr

Customer Question

What is the most likely cause of overheating in a Polaris Rzr 800 is coolant is boiling over. Fan is no running. Very difficult to see or following the fans connection and wiring harness. Is there a fuse or relay that is bad which is located somewhere specific which we can check? If the fan runs we can at least check to see if we have any other problem but for now after 10 minutes she is boiling over and fan never kicks on.
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Motorcycle
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
What is the most likely cause of overheating in a Polaris Rzr 800 if coolant is boiling over. 1. Fan is not running so that would be first choice of the issue. Very difficult to see or follow the fans connection and wiring harness. 2. Is there a fuse or relay that is bad which is located somewhere specific which we can check?
3. Do you have a wiring chart to show the fans connection to and from?
4. If the fan runs and it is still overheating what should we verify and how? Pump?
5. The first time we noticed she was overheating the system was dry but we have no leak. We filled up with coolant and there is no leaking of the system just boiling over? 10 minutes she is boiling over and fan never kicks on. How could most of the fluid leak out- just boiled over and out completely?
Expert:  Louie replied 2 years ago.
Hi and welcome to JustAnswer,Thank you for the question and your patience. Should you still need assistance for information purposes only...Initially, a possibility to consider would be presence of air/bubbles thus purging would be needed. Please click HERE. The procedure is in a Portable Document Format (PDF) file and can be viewed in most web browser. Click on the link to open the file or right click then select “Save As…” to download the file. It would require Adobe Acrobat Reader or equivalent for this purpose. Still, a review / proposed preliminary checks:• test the fuses at the relay/fuse block;• ensure that the radiator and brown wire are tied to a good frame/engine ground;• verify orange/black wire from fuse box to the fan motor carries IGN+12.Please post back results / observations of the above once tried.Incidentally, a hardwire mod (should it be of interest) would involve providing the fan motor's orange/black wire with a manually switched+12V and its brown wire directly to the frame/engine ground or perhaps better yet, the battery's - terminal.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Louie, I haven't yet tried your suggested repair since I have been out of the state. I will let you know over the weekend how I make with the repair. I would like to know how and why our coolant system was almost empty or at least so low we could see any fluid in the reserve container or in the actual radiator. We have no leaks that we can find anywhere so even if we bleed the system of any air which hopefully will solve the problem with the fan not starting which should solve the overheating and boil over, I still am concerned why a closed system was so low in the first place. Can you lose most of your systems fluid by overheating and causing a boil over? If yes, then I am back to a why we boiled over last fall to begin with.
Kris
Expert:  Louie replied 2 years ago.
The only way the coolant could have dried with no sign of leak would be if it has evaporated (over time) likely through the radiator cap and/or through the reservoir's cover.
Still, yes please; would look forward to an update when able.
Not only would this be an attempt of a fix, it would also serve as a test to determine if there is a leak somewhere.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Louie,
The purging of the system was unsuccessful. The unit kept boiling the fluid and boiling over out of the system before we could successfully purge the system and have it full. Howver, we did pull the harness off the thermostat sensor which was suppose to turn the fan on and register HOT on the ECU. Neither item happened. So we know there is some other issue. I also jumped the fan from the harness and battery and the fan started right up. I also checked the fuse for the fan relay and that was fine.
This is where I am at. I don't know how to check the fan relay or the thermostat. Based on these items what do you believe should be my next steps?
Replace thermostat?
Replace fan relay?
Replace Wiring to the fan harness?
Thanks
Kris
Expert:  Louie replied 2 years ago.
I understand Kris. For the secondary tries, please consider: • jumping the 2 wires of the thermo/fan switch or if only 1-wire, then short this to the frame ground;• temporarily hardwire a second ground line to the radiator from the battery's - terminal;• use a testlight to determine the presence of +12 on the fan motor's orannge/black wire;• temporarily remove the thermostat (not thermo switch).Please post back results / observations of the above once tried.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Question: What are we testing and trying to accomplish in this test outcome: Slightly confused.
1. Jumping the two wires of thermo fan switch on the engine block to power and ground?
2. Temp hardwire a ground where to the radiator?
3. What am I doing by or what should happen by moving Thermostat?
Thanks Louie. You have been a great help.
K
Expert:  Louie replied 2 years ago.
These tests would be indicative of:• jumping the 2 wires of the thermo/fan switch or if only 1-wire, then short this to the frame ground - test to determine if the thermo switch is engaging or not. The alternative is bench test the continuity of the switch whilst submerged on 195°C to 215°C water;• temporarily hardwire a second ground line to the radiator from the battery's - terminal - test for loose ground. The alternative is to check the Ω of the radiator's metal (unpainted portion) part to the frame ground and then to the battery's - terminal;• use a testlight to determine the presence of +12 on the fan motor's orange/black wire - test for the IGN+12 from the fuse box to the fan motor. The alternative is a to use a multimeter set to DCV;• temporarily remove the thermostat (not thermo switch) - allow free circulation of coolant; a bypass condition. The thermostat restricts/blocks coolant flow and only opens up when the engine has reached operating temperature. This would also allow observation if the coolant is circulating (flow can be carefully/cautiously seen through radiator filler hole) implying that the water pump is working. The alternative is bench test the continuity of the thermostat whilst submerged on 195°C to 215°C water.
Expert:  Louie replied 2 years ago.
Sorry, that should be "..The alternative is bench test if the thermostat would snap open when submerged on 195°C to 215°C water..." for the thermostat.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
OK,
thanks Louie,
On it tomorrow or Tuesday.
Expert:  Louie replied 2 years ago.
Appreciate the post back and would look forward to an update when able.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Louie,
We haven't been able to work on the Polaris yet from your guidance last night. However, can you explain or enlighten us on the following:
>We still do not know how to check the Fan Relay inside the fuse box.
> Also, how do we check or replace inline thermal circuit breaker that is hard wired into the harness going right into the fuse block right after the relay?
> This 20 amp inline circuit breaker is a solid metal block hardwired to the harness and then show it going to a 15 amp standard pull out fuse at PIN A5. We checked the 20A fuse on A3 right next to A5 which is 15A but it looks like both are connected to the fan circuit as well. Since the fan is mechanically working I am starting to think we have an electrical issue using the fan to not run either power continuity issue since disconnecting the ETS Engine temperature Sensor harness did not result in the fan automatically turning on which is by design its emergency default mode if the sensor is bad.ALSO CRITICAL NEW NOTE: Louie, In hindsight I think the former owner may have had the fan bypassed to run all the time once the ignition was turned on. We realize that we used to hear the fan turn on as soon as we turned the ignition on. Even when the vehicle stalled but the ignition was still on in the on position the fan would be running without the engine running. I believe this could be very relevant at this point because we know now that the fan does not turn on when the ignition is in the on position. This is not how the unit was designed to run by manufacturer but I recall in the manual or by someone on a forum that this was one of the recommended fixes for a certain year unit which was vulnerable to overheating. Basically wire it to bypass something in order for the fan to positively run anytime ignition was on. I actually like that scenario but also know that the unit is no longer running like that. DOES THIS MAKE SENSE?
I think if we can figure out how to test and/or replace the relay and any fuses in the system so fan engages when key is turned to the on position. I believe we would be in the right direction.
Thank you, ***** ***** provide some additional direction in this regards.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
(Posted by JustAnswer at customer's request) Hello. I would like to request the following Expert Service(s) from you: Help via Email or Text Message. Let me know if you need more information, or send me the service offer(s) so we can proceed.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Louie, am I suppose to rate you before we have the issue resolved or does rating you close out that specific open issue and then we need to start over again??
I only used the service one other time and it didn't get resolved so I am not sure if I am doing this correctly. I am happy with our communication so far but I feel that we aren't even close to trouble shooting this major problem yet. Let me know if I am able to actually support you better from my side.
Expert:  Louie replied 2 years ago.
Appreciate the latest additional information as all are very significant.1 check requested (for the moment and included in the initial post); using a voltmeter and ignition on, is there a +12V at either or both wires of the fan motor? This alone would tell us:• is the fuse, relay, wiring giving power;• is the fan motor receiving power;• is there good return ground.Critical as would serve as basis where to proceed next.Please post back with the above requested information.My participation is strictly limited to providing technical information and only those posted above are mine. Any and all others are machine auto-generated for systems requirements and site policies.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
OK, Very Good. I totally agree with this approach and it should quickly provide some additional direction and next steps.
K
Expert:  Louie replied 2 years ago.
And would look forward to an update when able.
Thanks.

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