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2001 xcf 440 sp edge and it boggs so bad it wont move..10 miles..cdi

 

Customer Question

i have a 2001 xcf 440 sp edge and it boggs so bad it wont move after about 10 miles or so once it gets warmed up good i replaced the cdi box with no improvements also tried rejetting which helped but the problem is still there any ideas?

 

Optional Information:
Year: 2001
Make: polaris
Model: xcf 440 sp edge
Engine: 440 fan

Already Tried:
new cdi box rejetting carbs

Submitted: 799 days and 11 hours ago.
Category: Motorcycle
Value: $45
Status: CLOSED
Picture
Expert:  .... replied 799 days and 10 hours ago.


Brian : Good day and welcome to Just Answer. My name is XXXXX XXX I'd be happy to help you with your problem today. What is the color of the plugs now?
Customer :

cardboard brown

Brian : Does that transfer onto the threads too or just the electrode? How long are you letting it warm up before putting a load on it?... Which way did you go with the re-jet, rich or lean?
Customer :

just the electrode jetted leaner

Customer :

warmed up five minutes

Brian : I had a yamaha dirt bike once that has the same feature. I call it a feature not an issue because otherwise the bike ran like a raped ape, once IT was ready, regardless of how ready I was. Where are the plugs gapped at?.. Are you using ngk or denso plugs?
Customer :

ngk br9es .030 gap tried closer and wider gap with no change its not ridable when i come to a stop it will not move gotta shut it off for about ten mins before it will go again

Brian : Do you have adjustable needles in those carbs? if so where are those set? Where are you mixture screws set?... I prefer seeing that color out on the threads too and I'm thinking that you might not have had a rich condition or your ideal jetting is between were you are versus where you were
Brian : I need a little clarity on that statement; you ride, it bogs, you come a stop, & it will stay idling but not rsp
Customer :

yup they are in the middle tried up one notch and down one runs even worse mix screws out one turn tried both ways runs worse

Brian : Not respond to throttle input?
Customer :

it will idle fine hit throttle but revs little but not enuf to engage clutch

Customer :

seems like weak spark but checked while this was happening but sparked good

Brian : did you verify float height?
Customer :

yup

Brian : I don't really buy into the "weak" spark theories, you have spark or you don't on a cdi ignition, if you had points & condensors, maybe but not on a cdi ignition. Where are the screws set at?
Customer :

one turn out

Customer :

do you think pick up coil could be bad throwing off timing

Brian : that can't throw offf the timing, that is fixed, but those can wend a weak signal to the cdi, seeing as how it's fine after warm up pretty well eliminates that though. It seems to me it's carb based and I know of no machine that can have proper jetting with mixture screws at 1 turn out. If those are fuel
Customer :

it only has low speed air bleed screws

Brian : Screws that is very lean. If those are air screws that is very rich. Fuel screws start at 1 1/4 turns out, air screws closer to 2 and with proper jetting stay in that vicinity or at least that is what you jet for
Customer :

ive tried all sorts of settings this is where it runs best

Brian : Those are air mixture screws and at 1 turn out would be pretty rich at low rpm/ idle. I think you need to re-jet further keeping those screws out near 2 turns & jet for that
Brian : I think you are going about it backwards
Customer :

i had a polaris shop rejet this machine and made about 500 miles and it melted down so i now have it back to stock

Brian : At one turn out it will bog until the heads are hot enough.
Customer :

or so they say

Brian : Oh my, stealerships are great aren't they?
Customer :

talked to many different shops they all said the cdi box was the culprit

Customer :

but it wasnt

Brian : That is how I would confirm/set the jetting. Air screws out to 2 - 2 & 1/2 & jet up to that
Brian : Does not sound electrical to me at all. If it a
Brian : If it were it would happen all the time, not warm up & run great. I also think you need to find other techs to talk to as I think you are being misinformed
Customer :

actually it runs worse as it warms up

Customer :

sorry i confused you

Brian : That isn't what you said though, please re- read your first question and correct or confirm that info... You stated that after it warms up it's all good....
Brian : And still at 1 turn out your jetting is not correct...
Brian : That is where I think your issue stands
Customer :

my first question said it boggs so bad it wont move after 10 miles or once ist gets warmed up good

Customer :

ill try jetting more

Brian : Exactly, but now your are
Brian : Exactly but now you are saying that is not true. So which is it. It gets bee
Brian : Better or worse as it warms up?... And really it doesn't matter as you are not correctly jetted, yet
Customer :

it boggs bad when motor is warm

Customer :

you thinkin bigger pilot jet then?

Brian : Ok. With that info, things move in the opposite direction. I'd correct the jetting &'do both cold & warm compression tests
Customer :

compression stays within 10 psi cold to hot

Brian : Yes & no. Now I'm thinking compression or crank sealmissue as well as bad jetting trying make up for that. Yes, with an air screw at 1 turn out you would turn out the screw & jet up
Brian : What was the compression?
Customer :

never thought about crank seals have to hit them with carb cleaner compression is 135

Brian : Just another possibility
Brian : I like to see closer to 150 on 2 strokes but 135 is nice.
Customer :

maybe rings didnt seat yet

Brian : Is it that fresh of a motor? Did they not run it in after rebuild or did you domthe rebuild?

 
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