Motorcycle Repair Questions? Ask a Mechanic ASAP
Good day and welcome to Just Answer. My name is XXXXX XXXXX I'd be happy to help you with your problem today. The cdi only receives signal from the pick up coil to signal the ignition coil to spark and does not require a battery. Your battery is only for your lights & your starter. The stator charges the battery & nothing else. 90 psi is low. You need nearly 110 psi. Check your valve clearances or replace your top end components. This statement sounds like you need a carb service more than anything.. "...thats why it runs half chloked and crappy.".. at the same the garbage machines are known to go through cdi boxes frequently or any of the other crap components that they are built with.
ya im finding that out. im just trying to get it running for a friend who bought it for 150 for her little girls chrismas coming up. my gues is by adding the extra voltage and fuel on the triger wire at the cdi is increasing the explosionin the cylinder to be more low and thats why it runs this way but crappy. i cheched valve clearance its good. im thinking blown head gasket?
ill need to do a leak down test!
no I don't think that has anything to do with it. I've yet to see a blown head gasket start & run, even crappy like, & that points to a fuel delivery, fuel mixture or intermittent spark issue. I don't think a leak down will tell you anymore than your compression test. And I need to back that up, I have seen these run on 75 psi, so 90 I think is ok, not ideal but ok, & I see the issue in fuel mixture, fuel delivery or intermittent spark/ignition.
ok when i try to start normaly hits intermitenly. ithought a week spark at first. i was tought in school "mmi" a cdi has to have 10.5v min. to work but this is a chinese piece of crap! i will take your advice and planning to change the coil, cdi, and stater. what does not fix it will be good spare test parts. on these pieses of crap you need an entire electrical system to test with.
That is not a powered cdi system. The battery is only for the starter & lights. The cdi is ac driven by the stator signal. I wouldn't change anything without testing the components first and again your issue sounds like a fuel delivery, fuel mixture or intermittent spark, more leaning towards the tune up issues.
ok got to go to church when i get back i have mor question if you r around
ok im back
story on this bike is a girlroad once and was scared of it. father put it up for about a year then tride to start it. wouldnt run. 2 people have worked on it with no luck. now me. i got a steady spark with my spark tester light.
Right, you have a dirty carb, or more like plugged up from sitting. Like I said you have a fuel delivery issue. Get some Yamaha carb cleaner, mix it with water & heat it up, take as much of the carb apart as possible & soak it in that hot bath for 20 minutes. Rinse with warm water & blow dry with compressed air. A carb cannot sit that long, and in my experience with those lumps you are likely better off buying a new carb for $35.
i took the carb apart and checked. all passeges clear and clean and every thing and seems ok. it wont even try to with start ether
I don't know, maybe the timing shifted.
i just put my finger over the spark plug hole and craked it. doesnt blow my finger off.
ok just redid the same thing with throttle wide open and now will blow my finger off
90 psi would. You have to have the throttle open for a compression test. Recheck the valves clearances & re-check compression. Is that a reliable compression gauge?
ya your right. forgot the basics. sure compression isnt the problem. made in CHINA IS!!!!!!! do you have any idea on this motor speec for valve clearance. i set intake at .051mm and exhaust .127mm or in standerd intake .002 and exhaust .005
its a nock off of a honda motor
plus it's not breathing. Those are much closer to .08mm intake .12 - .16 exhaust. That is just a Honda atc 110 motor, there are manuals all over the web, some free some not
timing cant be changed on these motors. checked timing on tdc compresion and timing mark "t" is dead center of timing inspection hole. only way it can change is if the the flywheel brakes the alignment pin. if it did i think the t mark would line up on tdc like they say it should
i have a valve clearance spec given to me by some one on line intake .05-.09mm and exhaust .11-.15mm thats why i set them to what i did. you and him seem to be correct so they should be set to spec.
the exhaust is the onley one i changed it was tight. so i readjusted it to the spec given.
Right its fixed but every now & then the keyway shears or is never installed. So then it goes back to the plug sparking, fuel getting to it, compression & intake air, what's missing or off?...
if it sheared is it possible to have on tdc compression and the t timing mark still show correct on the magneto? it does hit every once in a while when cranking and does backfire through carb some times when normal cranking to start?
how do i check it?
i took the nut off the crank at the magneto there is a keyway and it is in place. by the way you have been a huge help and i thank you so much! im just trying to help a single mother of three make a xmas wish come true. she doesnt have alot of money and only paid 150 dollars. im just trying to make it run at no charge to her. im even paying for the parts needed
It's rare.. So then it goes back to the plug sparking, fuel getting to it, compression & intake air, what's missing or off?.... No start on ether is a compression or breathing issue. Is there a nice blue spark. No fuel to the plug is a fuel issue. A wet plug is a rich condition, breathing or compression issue.
the spark when i checked was white not blue! thats why ive been checking spark
is it possible the starer triger is week
im stater triger is week? every time i check it it is a white spark definantly not blue.
White is hotter than blue, that isn't an issue.
tomarrow im going to order a carb, stater and cdi. the cdi is wrong. its a 4 wire. it needs a 5 wire for the fact that all the safety devises work on the 5th wire. the fifth wire is gray wire in the senter of the connecter and controles the kill switch as well as all other safety switches. if you remove it it rules out all safety switches. that i found out from some one else and i traced all the safety device wires that lead to it. its a ground. im sure your right about the carb. iwant to have on hand the stater and cdi as well as a coil for future test parts. im sure she will bring it back to me when it quits running in the future.
If you have spark, compression which is a ???, fuel to the carb & clean intake air I'm not sure spending any money is going to fix anything yet. Is fuel even getting to the carb?.. if so is it getting to the plug?
yes getting fuel to the carb, plenty of air intake, when i try to start the bike normaly i get a spotty black suet covering any thing within 5ft fast exhaust. im thinking to much fuel? what do you think?
i did find after this problem the carb was over filling and running out the overflow tube. i then took the carb and reset the float in the bowl. now better but still the same starting issue with out the suet out the exhaust.
That is way over fueled & quite like oil over filled. Is there oil on the plug at at all? it didn't sound like it.
no oil level is fine and i ordered new carb today. cant be bad rings either cause when at wide open throttle compresion is perfict. im sure carb is totaly the problem. ill now in a few days. thanks for all your help! will let you know progress as it goes. need to find a makuni karb and get rid of this chinese crapy carb.
A new carb isn't likely going to change anything unless there was an issue with the parts in the old one. Carb are full rebuildable & generally, unless dropped & cracked, do not go bad. They are often not set up right & finding "right" becomes a challenge but that is generally the case. Only if your plastic or rubber parts are shot would you need new parts.
That liquid coming out the exhaust is raw fuel. That is an extremely rich condition & is most like attributed to float level.
i did have the problem with fuel running out a everflow tube coming off the carb. i reset the float. had no spec so i guesed. solved that problem but still wont start and did not notice the fuel coming out the exhaust like befor air fuel mixture changes nothing. i start with it 1 and half turns out and go from ther
well got the bike running finaly. put a new carb and nothing changed. put a new 5 pin cdi and walla!!!!! pears like a kitten! one problem was the kill switch was bypassed by connecting the 2 wires together causing it to be grounded all the time. cant ever run this way no matter what ou do to it. its a open run switch and closed kill! i did click exsept one before. need to know if ill be charged more than the 28 dollars before i accept again. i do want you to be paid! i just need to know how much more ill be charged. money is tight. please let me know im very new to this online help!
I wish I would have known that about the kill switch. Don't sweat it, we got nowhere near that. Take it easy.
i found the kill switch problem way ahead before we talked and fix that. plus the cdi was a 4 wire doing away with the kill switch. my guess is some one screwed up the kill switch before changing the cdi with a five pin and got no where then tride the four pin witch evedently will not work on this bike. if they just would of tride a new cdi before messing with the wiring then they probabley would of fix it the first time. so what do i need to do and how much for you to get paid? you were a big help!!!!!!
Were you charged 28 already & did you sign up for a subscription?
i was charged 28 dollars but not sure if i signed up or not. thought the 28 was just to chat with some one one time.
Yeah that sounds about right, if you have questions about your account you'd need to contact cs or I can send this over to them, we don't have access to your account just your questions. You clicked once to accept your approval for deposit & would now click accept to "accept" my information and complete the transaction.
not to be a idiot but will i get charged more than the 28 ive allready paid? if so i just need to know how much so i can be ready for it to come out of my acount. im going to ohio for thanksgiving and money is tight
I'm not sure, let me send this over to cs to see if they can assist you...
ok just let me know and tomarrow ill call them and find out.
I sent them a note saying that you had questions on the account.
ok brian i accepted so you will get paid. THANKS FOR THE HELP!