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yamsuzpolaris, Motorcycle Mechanic
Category: Motorcycle
Satisfied Customers: 156
Experience:  service technician on yamaha suzuki polaris products since early 70's. currently own and manage deal
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I have a 1995 suzuki intruder 1400. i had problems with a intermintent

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I have a 1995 suzuki intruder 1400. i had problems with a intermintent spark that keeps the bike from starting.i tested the primary and secondary coils the one coil was lower then the other but both were in the ok zone.the one coil that is giving the intermintant spark is the low one. my range is 10,000 to 25,000 the coil is hitting about 13,000 while the other is 23,000. the stator checked ok, and the regulator was all over the place which is why the wires going to the regulator were burnt. can that cause the intermintant spark that is keeping my bike from starting? i am changing out the regulator and putting new plugs and caps in and then i am going to try it. but should i replace the lower coil? or since it checked out in range but low? does it mean it is going to fail or can they be that far apart and be ok?
the stator unit on most japanese motorcycles does 2 things. 1 part of it charges the battery along with a regulator/rectifier just like the alternator on a car. but also usually built into it is the coils that tell the ignition system when to fire. if the battery is not charging fully or properly this will upset the system and it also wont be able to generate a strong spark or fire spark at the proper time. so its like combining a distributor and alternator in the same unit. to test the wires and components, you must first know where the wires are coming from and what color they are. mostly wires from a stator that are "burnt" are the charging part of the stator wiring, as attempting to keep a bad battery charged overloads the regulator and the internal wiring, causing a lot of extra heat and hence either melted wires or burnt connectors. first of all find the wires that come out of the left side engine case and follow them all the way to the connector plugs on the end of them. are these the same ones you are saying are burnt? the unit with fins on it is the regulator, but I think on the intruders that mounted way down on the left side behind the rear of engine and just below the drive shaft housing. if you can give me a good description of colors of wires in each connector, regardless of male or female connections, I'll tell you what they are for and how to test them. Mark
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
My repair book says the wires for the stator are yellow and there are three of them. now u said they look like a fins, so they look like paddles? and would fit into the other connections? if so then they are the ones that are burnt. i have pics of it i can send. with this. so i will try to attach it. my bike only has 15,000 on it.graphic
what I was trying to convey is the voltage regulator unit is aluminum colored or dark grey and has fins on it. I described earlier where you should find it, its maybe 5-6" long and 3-4" wide or approx. from the looks of your pic there was definitely and overload condition causing a lot of heat. also if the regulator is bad that can cause this. one can never tell for certain EXACTLY what happened first, but one thing does definitely lead to another. first of all gotta make sure battery is GOOD, STRONG, holds CHARGE for a while without going dead. use a battery charger. if riding bike with a dead battery trying to get it to charge the battery can end up with what you got now. first off make sure battery is 100 percent good. then you can cut the connector ends off those yellow wires and check resistance, make sure you are testing the end that goes into stator on engine left side. check ohms between all wires, 2 at a time, resistance should all be close to the same. then check to ground between each yellow wire. should have infinity. you can replace the metal wire connectors with new ones from auto supply store, doesnt make any difference. when testing for spark you can even leave these 3 yellow wires unplugged for a few moments. do you get spark? let me know when you've checked everything this far. Mark
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
ok, now i am electrically not to good, i checked the one side of the yellow wires, ( the ones that werent burnt) put my meter on ohms and set it at 2 lowest i have on my meter. it read.08 through all three. now how do u check to ground? one on a wire and touch other to a bolt of something grounded? The wires with the fins (burnt ones) do go to the regulator. i traced them to it. i charged the battery saturday and it is reading 12.60 right now.
yes touch 1 lead of ohmeter to 1 of the yellow wires and other meter lead to ground (bolt on frame but motor block or cylinder fins is best). do each yellow wire and test to ground one at a time. meter should have no continuity reading. if it does, thats telling you that the wires inside the stator are shorted, possibly also heated and melted. sometimes when we even have to replace a stator like this, when you pull it out you can actually SMELL the burnt. back to the terminals or blade connectors. burnt or corroded is bad. you dont get good electrical flow thru burnt or loose or corroded. bad electrical flow makes HEAT. thats what you got now. heat melts, burnts, then its all over again. in effect thos 3 yellow wires must be 100 percent good contact and connections from the stator lead harness to ultimately the regulator. you can eliminate the plastic connector totally by replacing with your own you can substitute (can you say trip to hardware or auto store again?) as long as its just as thich and heavy or heavier. again thin and small is same as corroded, and builds heat as engine is revving and making voltage. let me know when you can get engine to start, again as I described above previous msg. you can also test for stator output with these 3 yellow wires dis-connected, but gotta at least get bike to start and idle first. when you get to this point ONLY let me know and I'll get you rest of way thru. Mark
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
ok , sorry i ask so many questions, but i like to iddiot proof it. so cut replace and then test regulater wires and ground test as well? my meter will say -OL when it is no conitiunity, and my button for ohm is just one setting, no ohm 2 or ohm 20, so i guess it should be ok to use as long as it does not show a number. so when i test the regulator do i do the same test three wires to each other to get a reading? then ground test? what should they read if it is good?
no test for regulator (there is but we won't get into that). all following tests are done with harness UNPLUGED from regulator. if 3 yellow wires all have continuity between each other, no reading to ground from any of the 3 yellow wires, then when engine is running you test for ac voltage between any 2 of the 3 yellow wires and you should see an ac voltage reading that increases with rpm, and reading voltage should be approx the same between any 2 of the 3 wires selected, then you know stator is functioning properly. at that point you plug the harness connector into the voltage regulator. voltage should be at least 12.5 volts at idle and when rev to approx 3000 rpm you should see voltage climb to approx 14 volts. this reading is done directly from the battery terminals OR from any good ground and the heavy red wire that is in the voltage regulator wiring connector. Mark
Customer: replied 6 years ago.
but wont the bike not start with out the reg and stator wire connected? so do i connect them then after it starts dissconnect and test? when i ground tested the stator the radings were.05 to .08 from wire to wire. my meter when set on ohms reads OL till i connect it. so when i did ground it didnot change from OL so i guess that means no connuitiy? I thank you again for your time, i just am not great with electric, so i need to idiot proof before i try.
please go back to the beginning of postings and re-read EVERYTHING slowly. then re-read them all again. if you need help, get someone who can read what I wrote and then look at all of your testing procedures with you. yes, bike WILL START with the 3 yellow wires disconnected, it just will not charge battery. the regulator changes the ac volts to dc volts and limits voltage to battery at 14 volts or so so battery won't overcharge and also burn out bulbs and other stuff. Mark
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Customer: replied 6 years ago.
great thanks i put a continuity light tester on the stator wires and it did not light so i guess that is ok? just send a quick note back so i can pay you. thanks again for your time and patience.