I'm at work now, but have an electrician friend coming over tonight with meters to measure where juice is/is not flowing. Do you suggest I test the ECU? Is the drivers or passengers side of the ECU the inflow?
Thanks for your help, I will certainly accept if your help gets the problem discovered.
Mark, I just had my electrician friend over to test your answer - sure enough, when 12v was run to the red/black wire on the ignition switch, the lights came up, fuel pump knocked, everything was normal. I just ordered the sscb (Control Module, part(NNN) NNN-NNNNfrom my local dealer and will install it when it comes in on Friday. As soon as that happens, I'll know if this was the culprit.
Thank you again for your help, I will gladly accept your answer if the new Module solves the problem.
And if it doesn't, I hope you'll be willing to help me troubleshoot the next option.
Thank you again,
as a precaution also check the engine kill switch. we had a unit here that switch was bad, but if you put your thumb on it and pressed and wiggled on it the electrical system would light up. you can use an ohm meter to test that also with the schematic I sent. or just use the 12 volt jumper wire and jump 12 volts directly to the "in" wire on the switch, then the "out" wire, and see what happens. Mark
Great information, Mark. Thanks for the detailed instructions - I'm certainly not an electrical trouble shooter. This helps a ton.
I've been talking you up to my friends and one is having a hard time with the electrical system on his (get this) 1964 Suzuki M12. Do you have the ability to look up the elec schematic on that machine (if they even made them?)? If you do, how can I get a check to you to cover your time? Time is money and your time is greatly appreciated.
I'll let you know what I find as I go through the Power On - EFI diagram.
I dove into the whole electrical system and can't figure out the problem. I wrote down all of the volts coming in and out of each spot. Here's a goofy thing: on sscb 1, I have 12 volts coming in. On sscb 2, there's only 5.5 volts coming out and going to the wire that feeds the ignition and kill switch. Can you figure out why that would be? I assume it needs 12 volts to run.
I tested a friend's perfectly-good kill switch and it didn't change anything. So I'm more sure that it's not the issue.
A goofy thing, can you make sense out of this? I left my batter charger on for a few hours the other night and, at some point, the lights came on and I ran out to the garage, turned the key, and it started up just fine. wtf.... you know? could it be the battery? I had it tested at Batteries Plus and they said it was just fine. I think I'll buy one anyways (14 day return policy) to see if that changes anything.
I am hoping that you are CAREFULLY following the detailed current flow for the ignition system as I described above and ONLY when you are also holding a print out sheet of the diagram of the ignition only circuit. simply start at the battery and follow each wire COLOR CAREFULLY checking voltage AT EACH POINT along the way. I've never personally seen a sscb unit go bad, but I"ve heard that they can and do. its hard to believe its the battery IF you have 12 volts going into the sscb unit at the connector plug and pin as described, yet only have 5.5 volts coming out. are you testing at the correct connector/ pin/ and wire color on the sscb2 connector? if so, I would make a temporary jumper wire and connect from where power goes in then over to the wire where power comes out (I cant remember the colors without looking at ignition circuit diagram again) and see if everything works as it should. you will need 12 volts minimum for everything to work properly. if it does, this would indicate a faulty sscb unit? I've also got a call into polaris tech to see if they have any ideas on this. I've always found the tough electrical issues here and never found one I couldn't fix. Mark
Yes, I had the ignition only diagram next to me the whole time that I was testing the system. It's at home (and I'm at work), but I followed it carefully, referencing the whole electrical schematic to fully understand where wires go.
The sscb is the part that I already purchased and it didn't change anything. Read back through the older posts, I thought that the new sscb would fix the problem, too, but it didn't. I would love to know what the polaris tech says. If it would help to have a video or pictures of anything, I will figure out how to get that posted here.
Got it, thanks for the advice. Do you have any thoughts about the 12v coming into sscb 1 and only 5.5v coming out of sscb 2? Could voltage be getting lost coming out of sscb 1 before it can get over to 2?
Hi Mark, I walked back through the "power on" diagram carefully with another electrician-trouble-shooter. He was excited about helping to solve this problem, but was as frustrated as I am after 4 hours on Saturday.
For sure, there are no bent pins and I'm testing only the wires on the "power on" diagram.
What stumped him is exactly what is stumping me: how could it possibly be that I have 12v coming into the sscb, but only between 5v and 5.5v coming into the yellow wire that goes to the ignition switch? The sscb is the only thing in between those two plugs and I just replaced it with a new one.
Another thing we learned: While jumping 12v to the red/black wire at the ignition plug, we measured the power coming to the "B" position wire on the ignition plug - the one that power feeds to after being passed through the kill switch, headlights, and a splice. As soon as we put the tester on the "B" wire, the volts measured decreased over a couple seconds down to nothing. What could that mean? It threw me off badly.
One thing that the latest helper told me that I did wrong was to plug the new sscb into sscb1 while the battery was plugged in. He said that I may have fried the sscb. But, he took apart the old sscb and couldn't find any place on the circuit board that looked bad, burnt, or disconnected.
I've double + checked everything and still have a large paperweight in the garage. Any other thoughts or any shops in Wisconsin that you know of that can help me would be appreciated. I live in Franksville (53126), but go west of Madison often.
Thanks for not giving up, Mark.
Sorry it's been a few weeks, here's the latest:
I tested the battery voltage, it's not dropping, and jumped 12v to the sscb1, same results.
A couple weeks ago, my dad brought the atv to Vetesnik Power Sports in Richland Center. It's real close to our family farm where the atv will be used the most. A relative in the area uses them for service and really likes how he is treated.
Vetesnik's has been trouble shooting and have narrowed the fix down to the sscb unit - again. They have a copy of this whole transcript and know that I already replaced it one time, but are sure that it's the culprit.
I will let you know if the new sscb fixes the problem, but I'm not hopeful - I think I'm getting pessimistic about the atv in general.
Thank you for all of your guidance and trying to help me fix it. I sincerely XXXXX XXXXX and you earned and deserve the $28 for all of the time you have spent.
Once I hit "accept answer", I hope I can still communicate with you with updates or requests for more help (cross your fingers I don't need to!). My email address is XXXXX@XXXXXX.XXX, shoot me an email if you think of it so I can keep you updated.