Thanks for the reply.
I put in a Emgo Universal Ignition Coil 24-71532 that I got from the Kaw dealer, apparently the old OEM one is discontinued. States it works with both 6v & 12v, points or CDI. It has a single primary terminal, so I soldered the two original primary wires on the harness to a new blade terminal to plug to it (I think they are the green/white wires).
More on the electrical side, I checked the resistance to the new ignition coil, exciter and pulser coils and got resistances lower than in the manual:
External ignition coil to ground 0.9 ohms (spec 1.2-2.5 ohms)
Secondary (spark plug lead) coil to ground 6.3Kohms (wire only) 14Kohms (with cap)
Exciter coil 122 ohms (220 ohms is spec.)
Signal coil 47.3 ohms (75 ohms is spec.)
Didn't know how critical these values are. Also -- wasn't sure what the cap on the plug resistance should be (see above).
On the rotary valve, I've got the dimple on the phenolic disc aligned with the dowel pin on the crankshaft. I think I am OK there at least according to the manual.
I can't even get it to fire one time when kicking with starting fluid.
On the airleak test, I have put a new rotary valve cover with a new oil seal in the cover, new 120mm o-ring around the cover, new o-ring on the end of teh crankshaft between the key and the spacer, I got a better fitting used carb holder intake manifold, no cracks in rubber, etc.
On Friday I did take the crankcase pump apart and the diaphram was rotted. I didn't see any parts online for that, so I made a paper gasket the same shape as the diaphram to replace it just to see if that was the leak, still no fire. I figure that it won't work long term, but thought I'd try it. Not sure what material original is made out of.
I haven't checked the seal on the magneto side of the crank, still trying to find a puller. I'll check there next.
By oil fitting, do you mean the banjo on the end of the oil injection pipe where it goes into the right side case?
On running the air leak test, how do you recommend I block the exhaust and intake? Where do I get a fitting to attach a hand pump to the spark plug hole? My compression tester hose has a valve in the end of it, other wise maybe I could connect to my air compressor fitting.
Compression test, I am getting 135psi max.
Thanks again, look forward to more input.
Thanks again for the info. I have ordered the LH Crankseal just in case and tried working on getting the flywheel last night. No luck, but will try again tonight. Had a hard time with the homemade puller, will try to find a universal one.
I picked up a coil cap that just has a spring with a sharp point and fits into a rubber bood. Is this the type you recommend?
Did you have any more info on the ignition coil I am using?
I found a universal puller at Autozone in the Tool Loaner program (actually for a harmonic something or other puller for a car). Worked like a charm. It was a little dirty behind the flywheel, but not sure if that is from the penetrating oil I put on the crankshaft. The seal doesn't look that bad from the outside. I guess I need some type of pick to pull the LH crank seal out & replace it to be sure. Is that also a common tool? My LH Crank seal should be in Friday.
The flywheel has metal blocks inside lining the permanent magnets and are pretty rusty. Do they need cleaned, or does the mag field work just as good? How about the coil pickups on the stator side? A little rusty.
Which front engine bolts should I check for being oily? I dripped a lot of 2-stroke oil when I pulled the oil pipe off of the oil pump. It may be hard to tell.
Did you have any luck on the link for the universal CDI coil?
The Kawasaki dealer didn't order my LH Crank seal as I requested, but stated the required seal size is 25x40x7 which they don't have, but they do have 25x40x6 and suggested that should be OK. Should I insist they order, or would I be OK with the 1mm thinner one?
I put the LH Crankseal in last night cleaned up the laminates on the magneto coils and the inside of the flywheel. I also installed a new "sparky" spark plug terminal (spring type, no resistor). I haven't pressure tested the crankcase yet. I tried starting and was able to get it to "bump" over one time on two different occasions. I also cut rubber gaskets and potted up the overflow pump to block off the passage from the crankcase to the overflow drain in the carb area.
Don't know if it was a coincidence or not, but I think I was able to get it to "bump" over after holding my hand over the carb horn, just trying to see if it was sucking fuel. Usually I start kicking with choke on and throttle closed. After many kicks, I'll try combinations of different throttle positions with choke open and closed. No luck.
I'll try the pressure test next. I think I have all of the right fittings. Should the piston be at the bottom of the stroke? Rotary open or closed? Or doesn't it matter as long as I have the aluminum opening to the rotary cover and the exhaust port sealed with a plug?
I did the lower end compression check tonight with a rubber stopper in the rotary cover intake and a test plug in the exhaust. I was able to hold 10 PSI with no problem. There seems to be a decent spark. I had another motorcycle enthusist friend of mine look at the spark and he thought it looked like I "had plenty of spark".
Thanks for not giving up on me!!
Yes, the rotary cover was worn out and I found a New Old Stock one on ebay and replaced it. The rotary disc was in spec. per the manual. I don't recall the thickness, but pretty sure it was OK. When checking the compresison tonight, I did notice when I had a cork in the intake and the piston down (intake port closed by disc) and pressurized through the spark plug port the pressure would hold. When I took the plug out, I did see fuel bubbling around the edges between the disc cover intake opening and the disc. The pressure would hold for a while, then eventually run out. I assumed that it was OK since it was sealed everywhere else.
Tonight I got 1 "bump" over total after kicking until my leg almost fell off. I think yesterday I got maybe 2 single "bump"overs on different kicks after many many kicks.
Here are pictures of the flywheel and timing mark at TDC. I don't see a "T".
I held my hand over the carb horn with the throttle open while kicking. I feel it suck my hand and as the engine revolves I feel it pulsing. Not sure if it is pushing away, or just letting off the suction.
I checked a little more and noticed that when I hold my hand just in front of the carb without blocking off the horn, it does feel like it is puffing towards my hand, not sure if it is my imagination. I noticed that when I block off the horn with the throttle open, my hand gets wet with fuel, but when I hold my hand in front without sealing it off, my hand isn't wet. Not sure if that is a clue.
Hope this will save you a little research, here is the section from my manual on the flywheel/ignition/etc.
I checked and the stator is lined-up.
Today I was able to pull the baffle out with a slide hammer and I tried to start it with it out. No luck. I rechecked top end compression after a few drops of oil and I get about 155 PSI max. Tried starting with and without the carb cover on, with and without starting fluid, no luck. I recheked the rotary valve timing and it is OK. I got a foam element from a mower shop. They didn't have a wide enough one to wrap around the inside and outside, so I used two and they overlap slightly in the middle.
Any other suggestions?
Are you suspecting the spark plug coil or the coils on the stator? I don't have another spark plug coil, the original one was shorted out and I pitched it & replaced it with the universal coil noted earlier. The coils or CDIs aren't avail from Kawasaki any more. I'd have to try to find one used on ebay or something. Is there a way to check them w/ a meter? I listed the stator coil and spark plug coil resistances above.
Appreciate the offer to look at it, but I am pretty far away in Ohio.
Am I at the point where I should take it in to the dealer? Do they have a way to tell if it is the CDI or coil?
This is crazy. I checked the Compression cold, and then started it up and warmed it up to check it again hot and it stalled again after running for maybe 10 min. or so like it has been doing. The compression is about 150 PSI cold and maybe 140 hot. The crazy part is that when I tried to restart it, it wouldn't fire. I pulled the plug out and put it into the cap & held to cylinder but no spark! I thought maybe the NOS coil I have is faulty, so I switched back to the universal one that was suspect (but did spark) and no spark at all.
I pulled the oil tank off and check the connections, checked a few resistances, etc. Couldn't find a broken wire, the resistance of the exciter and pulse coils is lower than the spec in the manual (about 1/2) but it was about that range when I checked it before and was able to get it to run. Very perplexed. Where do I go now???????
Do you think it would be worth paying $75 for a used CDI on ebay, or would chances be that it will fail before long, assuming it is in working order?? The NOS versions are hard to find, and very, very expensive.