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My front brakes on my dyna wide glide..bleeder..reverse

Customer Question

i have a problem bleeding my front brakes on my dyna wide glide and cant build any pressure. i have tried the crack the bleeder and pump and release method and the reverse syringe method and still no luck.
Submitted: 7 years ago.
Category: Motorcycle
Expert:  .... replied 7 years ago.
Are all your fittings tight?
Is the master cylinder leaking inside the boot?
What led you to needing to bleed the brakes?
Are you trying the bleeding process as 1 person?
Can you please explain what you meant by "reverse" bleeding?
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
the fittings are tight. i checked everything twice. im not sure if the master cyclinder boot is leaking. how do i check that, there are no visiable leaks coming from the master cylinder. yes i am bleeding the brakes as a 1 person process.
what i meant by the reverse bleeding is that i use a syringe to push fluid through the bleed nipple to push air bubbles out through the master cylinder. also the reason for bleeding my brakes is i changed my brake lines to braided cables. is there still an air leak. it is also a new custom chrome master cylinder.
Expert:  .... replied 7 years ago.
Ok, thanks for the info.

Either the fittings are not tight or there is still quite a bit of air in the line or m/c. The reverse bleed only works if you go very slowly & it is better to bleed just the m/c off by itself then attach the line that is full of fluid that you reverse bled.

As a one person job a syringe usually does not provide enough pressure & since you are dealing with front brakes why reverse bleed & not let physics do the work for you? I'd fill the m/c give it about 20, 1/2 squeezes, open the bleeder(s) & wait for brake juice. Once I had a good stream of fluid out I'd close off the bleeder(s) & go back to the lever & tickle the remaining air out with multiple 1/2 squeezes, once you start to see small bubbles than I top off the m/c, cap it, swing the bars & squeeze the lever. Open back up top off & crack the bleeders again, see what I get & how things feel & repeat as necessary. Gravity will work for you here. It takes more time & finesse than anything.

You can also loop a drain hose around & stick it through a water bottle top & attach the other end to the bleeder & do a conventional bleed, that loop will prevent air from coming back into the bleeder when you release the lever. I'd let gravity do it though.

Let me know if you have more questions.
Customer: replied 7 years ago.
Hi Brian,

i tried this method and still no luck. when you say open the bleeder & wait for brake juice does that mean squeeze the lever then close off the bleeder nad release or not squeeze and wait for it to bleed it self? i have a good flow of fluid when i squeeze the lever but still has no pressure built up in the lever it self and the caliper still doesnt work. i have tried this over a considerable amount of time and no luck. i also tried this a couple of days ago. i also cracked the banjo bolt at the m/c whilst i was squeezing the lever and there were no air bubbles from there just a stream of fluid.could you tell me what else i could check to see if the caliper or m/c were faulty.
Expert:  .... replied 7 years ago.
Which method?

I offered 2.

There is nothing faulty, just air in the line still or loose fittings. If you are using chrome fittings you need to run a tap or die over/through those to get the chrome off.

This is the easiest way to do front brakes: I fill the m/c, open the bleeder & leave open without touching anything & let gravity do the work for me. Patience & time, it takes nothing else. When you have a stream of fluid coming out, then close the bleeder & resume regular bleeding, swinging the bars back & forth & such. It helps tremendously to have another set of hands here that can understand how to open or close a bleeder or that can understand how to pump & hold.

Second to this is the looped hose method, same thing you just eliminate the need for the other person.

This is normally what I do:

After reverse bleeding the caliper & line with my pressure bleeder, I do the m/c separately.

To bleed just the m/c disconnect the line, hold your finger over the fitting hole, pump the lever & hold, release your finger, repeat until you have good lever feel, should only take one or two tries, then connect your fluid filled line to the bled m/c, then bleed the entire system normally.

Doing it this way only leaves minimal air in the system that is usually brought out through a few squeezes of the lever & turns of the bars.

You need to keep in mind that if you squeeze the lever all the way during bleeding that you are: 1) creating a vacuum in the system if there is air in there & 2) aerating the fluid that is in there, creating more air to bleed.

1/2 squeezes of the lever are your friend when bleeding the entire system & until I start to get lever feel I only use 1/2 squeezes. That is usually very quick when the m/c is bled separately.

If you are running apes or other bars that angle the m/c or at any point create a spot where the line is higher you will need to position the bike so that the m/c is the high spot or bleed the system with the m/c off the bars.