questions i have for you that will help us determine the failure.
1. last service was done when?
2. how many miles does bike have on it?
3. when did you notice the problem?
4. any changes done to the bike recently?
5. what the condition of the bat.?
6 has the bike fell over recently?
7.any changes done to the controls(handgrips)
8. has bike been stored for any amount of time?
things i want you to check.(by the way your doing a good job on the bike)
sounds like you have a multimeter i would like you to check the run stop switch.
and also try the igniter . you can check for signal coming out of the ignition module with your meter as well. should have near bat voltage going to the coil and your signal wire from the ignition module test it as well on ohms rotate engine till it comes to firing mark and check it again. this will let you know if you have a good signal to the coils . sounds like the bike degraded over time . there are many checks to do on the coil pack . also the check the bank angle sensors or anti tip should read on ohms ofl as when it gets tipped it makes contaact completing a circuit causing the ignition system to shut down .
I dont understand this.
Not sure of bank angle sensor, if it has them. I dont see them anywhere in the wiring diagram.
and 'anti tip'?? What is this?
and ohms 'ofl" when it gets tipped? what is 'ofl'?
Thanks for the compliment. Ive been a mechanic for 20+ years, but this is my first bike repair.
ok simply the situation of the wires being melted and spliced . the ignitor was affected by the melting of the wires degraded over time and has failed. my scematic shows grey wire being for the right turn signal probly why no voltage . sorry for the confusion. replace your cdi ignitor and you should be in buisness
No worries dude,
The bike has been in my garage for almost 3 months now. It can wait a little longer.
Im assuming you have the same schematic I do now..
The voltage from the grey wire coming out of the ignition switch and going to the igniter should be what???
and also, I checked voltage to the coils the other night. I have 12 volts at each terminal, of each coil.
Okay, check this out.
I have a brand new Kawasaki switch. I started checking continuity on it. It does the same exact thing as the switch that is in the bike.
Same values, same locations.
And when I check for continuity from the white wire to the grey wire when the key is in the ON position, there is none. Same as the switch in the bike.
So needless to say I am NOT going to install it.
Now I am wondering about the junction box. And also questioning the alternator???
Basically I am left scratching my head, with another $100.00 dollars spent and no spark.
I found in a haynes(?) manual last night how to test the junction box and started probing wires. The was continuity where it says there shouldnt be in a couple of places.
Dont know if I should trust the Haynes manual, but it does leave me with questions and getting very frustrated.
Yes fuse block.
In the Haynes manual it gives pin locations to check for continuity or infinity.
Not sure which ones it was, it was late and I was tired.
I will try to pinpoint it this weekend, and write down the locations.
no you didnt miss anything. I havent installed the new switch. But I do have the 2 volt drop on the old switch (the one still in the bike).
No worries about the time. I would rather not spend 700.00 of my friends money, and get this right the first time.
I use the automatic setting on my craftsman meter.
When the range is supposed to be in the thousands I might set it to K ohms, but generally use the automatic.
Not sure about diode settings. But when I did the diode tests on the fuse block, I reversed the meter leads to get the readings.
And on the new switch, I also used the beep setting for continuity. I did this test on the bench. As far as can tell, the switch doesnt have a ground, or use the frame or mounting bolts as ground.
I know that I have seen new electrical parts be bad before, but In my 20 years auto experience I find that it is rare.
What are the chances the switch is bad???
It doesnt make sense to me. There should be continuity to the grey wire when switched to the ON position. There isnt, and Ive checked it 10 times.
Is it possible Im not checking it correctly???
I dont know, Im lost in this at the moment.
Well i didnt specifically switch the lead polarity and check it, but I have checked it so many times that I would guess that I inadvertantly crossed the leads at some point.
Is there any reason at all that continuity should not go from the white wire in OFF position to the grey wire in the ON position???
If you say Kawasaki made some bad switches, then I may have my customer return the switch for a different new one.
No worries. The thing has been in my garage for 3 months now.
this bike will not fire without poer to the grey wire you have replaced the switch ect. or at least have it on hand the bike getting harder and harder to start till it will not tells me there is a open started ok at the ecu there is no power to grey we need to back up to the place the grey came from im going to look at my scematic i believe it goes back to the key switch . it does . need to check for power at the grey wire at the key switch coming out with key switch on
That was the info I gave you, sorry I didnt specify.
No power or continuity at grey wire coming from the keyswitch, in the ON position.
AND - no continuity at the grey wire on the BRAND NEW SWITCH, tested on bench, in the ON position.
I am reluctant to say that the new switch is bad, and I dont want to install it for fear of not being able to return it.
But I have even tried jumping 12 volts to the grey wire AT the ignitor, and still had no luck.