Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
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There is a simple test that you can run using the snap on scan tool...just pull up the PID for the rpm and see if it will move when you are cranking it over. If it does not, then chances are that you have a bad crank sensor. If so, you are looking at something else and will need to continue troubleshooting.
There is also a relatively common problem with these engines wherein the timing belt will begin to fray and hit the crankshaft position sensor. This will usually set a code even after cranking for only a few seconds but it does not always. If this is the case, you will see clear evidence of it as soon as you pull the timing cover off. Good luck!
I havent figured out how to check the PID for the rpm yet , I just bought this scan tool from ebay. I was using my friends newer model and it was much nicer and qucker.
Here is what I did discover, we disconnected the CrankSensor cranked it over a few times , then rescanned it, now it reads crank shaft sensor failure.
So that tells me the problem may not be the CS?
It may indicate that, yes. I would try to figure out how to read the pid for the rpm first, though. Another thing to check would be the rpm gauge on the cluster, if there is one. If it is reading rpm with the sensor plugged in, then you are likely not looking at a c.s. sensor.
Ok, we just figured it out, It is reading 113 rpms during cranking. Not sure what else we should check.
It's good news that you don't necessarily have to disassemble the timing cover, but not that we are still unsure of the problem...The very first things to check are fire and fuel. I would first start by checking to see if there is fuel pressure. There should be a schrader valve on the fuel rail (very similar to the valve stem on your tire) that you can simply depress with a screw driver and check for fuel spray.
No fuel or fire, checking relays again.
Gotcha, it sounds like you have an electrical concern for sure.
Found the problem
got it running but its not running good. took off down the road for a test drive and the further we went the worse it ran. maybe has a clogged Cat. not sure
That's great news, buddy! I'm glad that you found the issue. I would revisit ignition quality before condemning the catalytic converter, but it is possible that if the vehicle was running bad before you bought it that they may have flooded the cat with raw fuel. If that is the case, it is possible that it may improve if you run a fuel system cleaning through it.
It looks like its only firing on 2 of 6 . The center two wires are the only ones firing, in fact it will not start if those are unplugged but will start if all 4 of the out side wires are unplugged.
I assume we are looking at 2 bad coil packs? Anything else I should look at?
If it is running only on 2 and 6, then you would have to have all bad coils...the diagram in the middle indicates that those run off of two different coils (each pair of posts on the pack are indicative of a single coil to those cylinders). I would check for spark output from each coil tower individually using an *incandescent* test light (not led) connected to ground while someone spins over the engine and watch how far the spark jumps (if at all). Then, I would suggest checking the resistance of the injectors individually by disconnecting the injector connectors and with the key off reading the resistance in ohms between each terminal; the reading should be approx. 16 ohms.
Have you had a chance to run the tests I have suggested?
Hi, this is Josh checking in to see if you have made any progress or if you have any questions. Let me know if I can further assist you. I also want to remind you to please take a moment to rate my service! Thanks!
We changed all spark plugs and those 2 coil packs.
It's better but not fixed. I'm thinking it has one pr more clogged Cats. Monday we are going to remove the upstream O2 sensors and see if it has more power.
That sounds like a great idea. Let me know how it goes!
Ran it the O2 removed and no change.
Tested the new coil packs and And we are not getting a pulsating ground on the outside coil s. We do however get a pulsating ground on the center coil . Even if we move them around, putting an outside coil to the inside, we still only get the pulsating ground to the middle?
Not sure where to go from here. Its running on two cylinders with no power
is it possible that I received a bad Ignition control modual from the parts house? Do you know how I can test it?
It is certainly possible. I have been pondering how to proceed from here...I would suggest taking it to O-reilly's as they are the only parts place that I know of that can test ignition control modules.
Also you should make sure that all the wiring to the connector of the icm is working properly.
check all the pins for looseness and corrosion
This is a brand new unit. they are all good
Just to clarify, I am talking about the pins on the harness side, not the icm side, but if they are good that's great. Consider having oreillys test the module (they do this for free).
The engine was not running before the icm replacement and has now began to run but only on a few cylinders, correct?
Correct, had no fuel or fire. If you have a computer or smart phone that plays youtube videos, I have made a short informative video to help explain whats going on.
Please Watch https://youtu.be/DEwhKkWVsDE
I will check it out when I get out of work.
Are you not able to view YouTube videos?