How JustAnswer Works:
  • Ask an Expert
    Experts are full of valuable knowledge and are ready to help with any question. Credentials confirmed by a Fortune 500 verification firm.
  • Get a Professional Answer
    Via email, text message, or notification as you wait on our site.
    Ask follow up questions if you need to.
  • 100% Satisfaction Guarantee
    Rate the answer you receive.
Ask Chad Farhat Your Own Question
Chad Farhat
Chad Farhat, ASE Certified Technician A6 - Electrical / Electronic systems A7 Heating / Air conditioning systems
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 1235
Experience:  Owner at Carolina Auto Service & Sales , 20 years Experience in Foreign & Domestic vehicles
Type Your Mitsubishi Question Here...
Chad Farhat is online now
A new question is answered every 9 seconds

05 spyder dies when given gas at about 1500 rpm. Just got it

Customer Question

05 spyder dies when given gas at about 1500 rpm.
JA: Has the vehicle turned into a gas hog? And how does it start -- same as usual?
Customer: Just got it but has 200k, is now starting ok after first not doing so for hours, I did the timing belt, o2 sensor 1 which cleared code. I have code for cam and crank sensor.
JA: What year is your Ram?
Customer: 05 mitsu 2.4l spyder gs
JA: Are you fixing your Ram yourself? What have you tried so far?
Customer: answered this and it is not a ram that i know of
JA: Anything else you want the mechanic to know before I connect you?
Customer: no, ok
Submitted: 2 months ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.

Hi, I'm Chad ,Welcome To JustAnswer, I'm reviewing your question and I will be posting a reply ASAP

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Thank you. I am fixing myself and only somewhat knowledgeble around the multimeter.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Hoping the condition is something that is typical according to symptom of dying when goosing gas to around 1500 rpm. It started and ran better after replacing old spark plugs and coil wires but after timing belt replace will not go under load. o2 sensor 1 heater replaced sensor and cleared code- good so far. Replaced cam sensor with aftermarket and code came back anyway. I did not replace coil packs or crank sensor. Crank and cam codes are only codes now. Idle air control valve is on order and considering fuel pressure regulator, injectors, fuel pump with filter unit.
Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.


have you checked the timing marks after belt replacement ? I sent you diagram , please check marks first for me and we go from there

what codes left now after replacement ?

Please let me know

Thank You

Chad Farhat

ASE Certified Technician

2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse L4-2.4L SOHC

Save Article

Timing Component Alignment Marks

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Codes left are P0335 crankshaft sensor and p0340 camshaft sensor. They were there before I did the timing belt and new tensioner actuator. I checked the marks twice but am not an experienced mechanic. It took more rotations through for the marks to line up again than I thought it should but when they did they were right on. The cam sensor was a cheap one (didn't result in code going away after clearing) and my friend told me to use only Mitsu parts, but from here on it is getting expensive for me. I will recheck timing marks but find this frustrating since they seemed to be on after only more than 4 full rotations. Not sure why? I intend to spend today with the multimeter and srvc. manual checking sensors etc. Do you have any other advice about what the specific symptom of stalling when given throttle might be on this model? Book seems to troubleshoot to fuel delivery or ignition issue. It idles nicely- starting a little high at 1,100 rpm then going down to 700 which is recommended I believe. Let me know if you have any other hints- am going out to the garage soon.- Thanks Chad.
Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Chad, Would the car still purr at idle if the timing was off?
Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.

2005 Mitsubishi Eclipse L4-2.4L SOHC

TIMING BELT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION REMOVAL SERVICE POINT [[A]] TIMING BELT REMOVAL CAUTION: The crankshaft should always be turned in the forward direction only.

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Thanks, ***** ***** only move it clockwise. Would the idle be smooth if the timing was off?
Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.

1. Turn the crankshaft in the forward direction (to the right) to align the camshaft sprocket timing marks. CAUTION: If the timing belt is to be re-used, use chalk to mark (on its flat side) an arrow indicating the clockwise direction.

2. Loosen the tension pulley fixing bolt. 3. Move the tension pulley to the water pump side, and then remove the timing belt. INSTALLATION SERVICE POINTS ]]A[[ AUTO-TENSIONER INSTALLATION

1. Apply 98 - 196 N (22 - 44 pound) force to the pushrod of the auto-tensioner by pressing it against a metal object (such as the engine block) and measure the movement of the pushrod. Standard value: Within 1 mm (0.04 inch) A: Length when it is free (not pressed) B: Length when it is pressed A - B: Movement 2. If it is outside the standard value, replace the auto-tensioner. CAUTION: Never compress the pushrod too fast, or it may be damaged.

3. Use a press or vise to gently compress the auto-tensioner pushrod until pin hole A of the pushrod and pin hole B of the tensioner cylinder are aligned.

4. When the holes are aligned, insert the set pin. NOTE: When replacing the auto-tensioner with a new part, the pin will be in the auto-tensioner 5. Install the auto-tensioner to the engine. ]]B[[ TIMING BELT INSTALLATION

1. Align the timing marks on the camshaft sprocket, crankshaft sprocket and oil pump sprocket.

2. After aligning the timing mark on the oil pump sprocket, remove the cylinder block plug and insert a Phillips) head 8 mm (0.3 inch) screwdriver. Check to be sure that the screwdriver goes in 60 mm (2.4 inches) or more. If the screwdriver will only go in 20 - 25 mm (0.8 - 1.0 inch) before striking the counterbalance shaft, turn the sprocket once, realign the timing marks and check that the screwdriver goes in 60 mm (2.4 inches) or more. The screwdriver should not be taken out until the timing belt is installed. CAUTION: If the timing belt is re-used, install so that the arrow marked on it at time of removal is pointing in the clockwise direction. 3. Install the belt to the crankshaft sprocket, oil pump sprocket and camshaft sprocket in that order, so that there is no slackness in the belt tension.

4. Set the tension pulley so that the pin holes are at the bottom, press the tension pulley lightly against the timing belt, and then provisionally tighten the fixing bolt. 5. Adjust the timing belt tension. ]]C[[ TIMING BELT TENSION ADJUSTMENT CAUTION: Do not use a spanner or the similar tool to turn special tool MD998738. Otherwise, the auto-tensioner set pin may be broken. Turn special tool MD998738 by hand only.

1. Remove the rubber plug from the rear of the timing belt cover assembly. Then screw in special tool MD998738 by hand until the tensioner arm is touching the auto-tensioner pushrod. 2. After turning the crankshaft 1/4 of a revolution in the counterclockwise direction, turn it in the clockwise direction until the timing marks are aligned.

CAUTION: When tightening the fixing bolt, make sure that the tension pulley does not turn with the bolt. 3. Loosen the tension pulley fixing bolt, and then use special tool MD998767 and a torque wrench to tighten the fixing bolt to the specified torque while applying tension to the timing belt. Timing belt tension torque: 3.5 Nm (31 inch lbs.) Tightening torque: 48 ± 6 Nm (36 ± 4 ft. lbs.) 4. Remove the set pin that has been inserted into the auto-tensioner, and then remove special tool MD998767.

5. Turn the crankshaft two revolutions clockwise so that the timing marks are aligned. After leaving it for 15 minutes, measure the amount of protrusion of the auto-tensioner. Standard value (A): 3.8 - 4.5 mm (0.15 - 0.18 inch) 6. If the amount of protrusion is outside the standard value, repeat steps (1) through (5). 7. Check again to be sure that the timing marks of each sprocket are aligned.

Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.

Diagram R & R Timing belt 2.4 liter

Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.

Diagram continue Timing belt

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
New tensioner was within tolerances I believe. The pin did not go in and out with no friction, but hole was very close and the tension pulley was very hard to get to have a good amount of tension- no slack when took wrench off- and I bent the first pulley with lever so I felt good about where the tensioner was after all that. Again, it idles beautifully. WOuld it do this if timing was off??
Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.

End timing belt R & R

If you going to recheck it can follow this procedure

Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.

yes it would be

or crank shaft sensor ?

or a fuel pressuer weak pump

or thotle body

but all this started after you chnaged belt so we have to check timing and the codes are crank shaft & came , so they are either bad or the timing is off

and you said the se codes exist before correct but the dies and no rev after 1500 was after belt replacement correct ?

the more info i know the more i can help you ?

Thank You


Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.

Yes it will still purr at idle :) eve if timing is off , but under load it will bog down

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
dying was after timing replace but no start intermittent condition existed before. It starts now after new plugs and wires but has not been run hot much due to stalling after putting under load. Why did it seem to take many revolutions for the timing marks to return to proper? I did the bottom pulley correctly I am sure-- tested through the engine port bolt and felt when it was properly clear when all marks aligned. (And I have no vibraion when run). Then rotated it clockwise through but it seemed like 8 full revolutions before marks returned to proper. I do not have the special tool for tension pulley. The second illustration you sent does not tell me what "A" is or should be. The book does say up to 3/16 inch and I believe it was that or slightly less but rotating through it was giving resistance but I thought it to be normal (but again little exerience here)- it never was so hard that it felt like metal against metal. Ok, going back to check everything, but could the crankshaft sensor (not replaced be causing all this? Or something else? Ok, got your response about bogging down even with timing off. Will go back to it now. Hope to find out more- got to get this working. Thanks, Tony
Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.

Yes install a crank sensor first

Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.

you welcome Tony

Let me know if you need anything else on it, just reply back and we continue even after rating

if you are good , Please Kindly rate me.

Hope I was helpful to you &

A Positive Rating is Much Appreciated

This Post Will Stay Open for You To Come back and Ask me Any Follow Up Question You May have on this issue , even after you rate me

Thank You

Chad Farhat
ASE Certified Technician

Customer: replied 2 months ago.
Hi Chad, I went over the timing marks again but this time my daddouble checked me and confirmed TDC at the #1 cylinder with a feeler. Everything was right on except maybe needed a slight more tension that we corrected for the actuator. I tested the crank position sensor and had 12v in, proper ground, and a fluctuation of between 2.1v and 2.6v at start idle for supply. I read that if there is signal present that the Crank sensor is good and if it is bad there is no spark condition but will crank. Since I am starting (albeit stalling) could the Crank sensor or cam sensor be bad then? Do they go bad slowly or intermittently and does my supply voltage on the crank sensor show too narrow a fluctuation or anything like that? I don't want to buy a 100 and a 75 dollar part if neither will make a difference. I also read that synchronization between the two sensors can get messed up if a cam phaser or reluctor is at fault. Not sure about these at all, but interesting if my aftermarket cam sensor made no change and the crank sensor is testing ok. Also got the idle air control valve today and put it in first with no improvement- and with higher initial rpm and slower to come down with more stalling and sooner. New o2 sensor similarly made no improvement and some worse. Ignition coils look old but if I have spark and good start I guess they're ok too. Still considering fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter but again getting into more moolah and wish I could test for them. I got a fuel pressure tester but no valve on the rail so will take more time to hunt down special fittings or different tool with them. Was hoping it would get figured out before that. Any advice at this stage- I do appreciate your help and will gladly give you the highest rating when I get this resolved. Thanks, Tony
Expert:  Chad Farhat replied 2 months ago.

you welcome :)

it will go out intermittently ,it will be hard to start and slowly goes out like what is happening .

the fluctuation is to narrow.

i would replace crank & cam sensor at same time and buy same brand .

if you had 12 v and ground that is good , then it is failing internally

and fuel pressure need checking that will cause this


Related Mitsubishi Questions