Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi, I’m Ron and I can help you.I have been in the auto repair business with my own shops since 1975 and also teach automotive repair. I am confident we can resolve your problem together. Please understand that I don't know your skill level. In most cases when you have a problem with the way the vehicle performs, specialized tooling is required to acquire computer data/information or engine testing results. We didn’t build these complicated vehicles; we just diagnose and fix them. Also understand that I can't see, smell, hear, or touch the vehicle either, so it may take a few replies to get to satisfactory results. I am also going to direct you with the fastest, easiest and most common things to check first. Please be patient and permit me to do what I do best.I also try to give all of the information you may need, expecting a “positive rating” in return. I will also continue assisting you after you have rated me, if necessary. If there is any reason I cannot get a positive rating, please let me know why “in advance”, so I can go another direction for you. I am sorry you’re having this problem; I’ll help you through it.
I would start with checking out the CRANK sensor, that and the module can cause this issue. if you have access to a code reader or scan tool, you should also check for codes.
Hi Joe, I would have to say a CRANK sensor or striker not getting the signal from the CRANK sensor, or the ignition switch throwing the signal down.
Thanks again, and please don't forget to rate me and keep this link in case you need me again later on.
Check the striker ring that the crank sensor uses as a signal too.
OFF line for a while, check back with you later.
I would use a lab scope and test it. See attachment, and please remember to rate me for my time.
Thanks again, Ron
Not really, these are essential tools for that type of electronics.
Hi,Can you clarify what vehicle you have? There was no 2002 Talon, only ~92-99 era.Also can you clarify what engine you have? There was a 1.8L Mitsubishi engine, a 2.0L Mitsubishi engine, a 2.0L Turbo Mitsubishi engine and a 2.0L Chrysler engine. The crank sensor set up varies greatly between these based on different engines/years, so there is really no way to go forward without at least knowing the correct year and engine type.Thanks
No worries Joe, that simplified a lot.This particular year does add some potential other possibilities that I would like to look into as well. Your initial complaint was that there was no spark. This is verified on both coils that there is no spark correct?
The Service Engine Soon light is turning on for a bulb test when you first turn on the key correct?
Are you getting injector pulse while cranking?
Thanks... if you are getting injector pulse, that pretty effectively rules out a crank sensor since it drives both the ignition and injection timing.
No I did not see the coil inspections, let me try to find that up there.
Thanks, ***** ***** things up tremendously.So the black/white wire on each coil you have 12V at key on.The black wires are ground so we aren't too concerned about them since they shared ground anyway.
The third wires (white/green and black/blue) you have 5V on one while cranking and zero voltage on the other while cranking, is that correct?If so, two questions:
1) Are we 100% certain the timing belt is aligned properly?
2) Has the cam sensor been replaced with an aftermarket sensor?
The cam sensor is on the drivers end of the head, just slightly obscured by the plastic intake duct. On the back (narrow end) of the head there will be an aluminum housing and the sensor slides into the top of it, held down with a 10mm bolt.Check to see if it looks abnormally clean/shiny as well as the color (gray ones are more problematic than black ones). Those are the only identifying properties... it may have a mitsubishi logo, that doesn't mean anything though (the chinese ones are mold-copies anyway and carry the logo over).
If it looks particularly new, have a helper crank the engine while you unplug/replug the sensor in several times and see if it hiccups at all.
You can usually just unlatch the air filter clasps and flex it out of the way without having to undo the hose clamps etc.
Thanks.Usually if the issue is a bad-new cam sensor that will make it hiccup a little at the least.Basically your last inspection, and it is going to be a long shot, will be to verify the belt is timed right.
The issue with our spark is the trigger voltages (third wire on the coils). These should be pulsing between 0V and anywhere from 300mV-3V as you crank. The one wire having no voltage can be an indication of the belt jumping time. If the belt is not aligned properly the computer will shut down one coil to try to protect itself (stall the engine before it hits a valve under high RPM etc).
The problem with this being an issue in your case is first that your other coil is showing 5V... above the 3V max trigger which is indicating a problem in itself... and second that you are missing spark on both coils anyway.
The computer will only shut down both coils intentionally as a result of an immobilizer mismatch, and if that were the case you would not have injector operation either. You have neither coil firing so a belt alignment issue is highly improbable, and you have injector operation so an immobilizer issue is impossible.Basically.... apart from wiring damage (Which in itself is unlikely since you are seeing high voltage on one of the trouble wires), it looks like you are going to be putting a new ecu in this car if nothing can be found with the wiring.
My only concern there would be that if someone put some cheap china coils in it they may have blown out the new ecu.Either way, the voltages tell the story... you have 5V on a 3V peak driver alone, not to mention of course the dead driver.The volt meter is fine for testing those... the voltage is low enough we get an accurate-enough peak, which is all we are interested in. There is no need to scope a trigger voltage in this scenario anyway.
Assuming of course they didn't just install a used ecu which may have been bad to begin with... this particular issue is fairly common due to the low grade coils places like autozone sell, they bleed 12V across the trigger wire from poor epoxy sealing inside, blowing out the drivers.
I'm just speculating if the condition is the identical to prior to the ecu change and the ecu change was a brand new one (so no expectation for driver problem). That would be the only explanation for a brand new ecu failing. And again it is common for cheap coils to blow these drivers out, which is why used ecus are not really trustworthy.All the dealer can do is verify the trigger voltages.... if the voltages are out of range it is either a belt alignment issue (be it physical or sensor reading poorly), a wiring problem, or blown drivers in the ecu.Since you have high voltage on one and no spark, a belt issue is far less probable... Might be worth double checking just in case, I wouldn't hold my breath though.
The trigger voltages are the bot***** *****ne regardless... there is no "other fuse" or some other random device that is going to cause those symptoms.... belt timing/signal, wiring, ecu. That's it.
Yeah this has been the death sentence to many Eclipses... with the ecus being in the $1000 range, and it hard to find good used ones, the car usually has to be in really stellar condition to go forward with a repair like that. Even more so if it potentially already had an actual new one in it and popped it too.