Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi,With so many things losing power but the battery being assumed new and charging definitely working, I would be most concerned with an issue in the battery terminals or cables right near the terminals. These are incredibly common to corrode and cause similar behavior. While sometimes it is obvious , other times you would have to look inside the terminal with it removed or unbolt the 12mm nut and look at the cable ends to get a clearer picture of the condition.I would be checking out those terminals and if the positive one is even remotely questionable, change it out with a new one (a proper replacement, not a lead universal clamp).
If the terminals appear OK, I would take the battery out for testing... and do multiple tests on it. It may be that the new battery has a loose plate in it which will cause random complete loss of power when the plate moves.
There is nothing that is going to cause loss of power out of the battery except the cables/terminals and the battery itself. They have direct runs into the main fuse panel which then has direct runs into the sub panel, just with the ignition switch cutting power on/off for the key-on devices.
If there is anything cutting power flow from the battery (As in a device) it would be something added/not original.If the terminals/cables all look OK, I would have to take into consideration that while only 6 months old, that battery likely has a problem.
Yeah that certainly could complicate things. Further, if the terminal was damaged enough to merit replacement, the possibility of there being issues with the cable (corrosion passing through to the cable too) is elevated.
If the connection is solid, then the battery would still be your most likely suspect, 6 months old or not.
Again my concern would be a possible loose plate in the battery as that will cause a sudden drop of power to basically nothing... and as well when that happens hooking up jumper cables usually doesn't help. The only thing that usually works when that happens is disturbing the battery (torquing the terminals, moving the battery if not bolted down, etc).
I would want to test it a few times, or ideally test it when the problem is occurring. If you start the car up with no issues and drive to the parts store for testing etc, it is unlikely to fail of course. If not tested when the problem is present, a test is not too helpful.Again based on your symptoms with no power to the vehicle, the vehicle running and operating electronics absolutely normally once the engine is on (and the battery marginally superfluous at that point), then having a problem as soon as the key is turned off.... its only going to be battery or cable/terminal related realistically.
Well it would have to be an amperage test for a reliable result, but yes.
Keep in mind that the voltage is not the reserve power of the battery, the amperage is. The voltage is just the capacity to deliver whatever amperage is available.
For example you can have a battery with 12V but only 100 amps reserve power.... this would be enough to turn on the radio or lights maybe, but not anywhere near enough to power the vehicle entirely let alone operate the starter etc.
In the situation where there may be a loose plate inside since that is what makes it go from suddenly 100% perfect to suddenly inoperative, the amp reading will be drastically different depending on the stability inside the battery. Luckily some of the more advanced battery testers can identify this as a cell damage issue sometimes, so it isn't hopeless testing it whiel things are working... it just isn't ideal either.
Sure... just a second I'm having a connection issue right now.
I seem to be having a problem getting posts through, I'm sorry about that.
Getting a amp tester is pretty critical if you can. Then when the problem occurs of course check the battery. We expect in the 500CCA range. If you get a reading in the 100-350 range, try connecting directly to the battery (remove the clamps) and see if the reading changes indicating a connection issue between the post and the terminal.
If you are seeing 500CCA range and the car won't start/doesn't even try... double check your power supplies to see what really is/isn't working. If you for example have no power to constant power items like domes, hazards, headlamps, etc... then you would still be suspecting a problem with the terminals/connections/cables. You might check the main fusible link to see if there is a hair line fissure in it etc.
If however all your constant power devices are working and it is only ignition power things having an issue, then we would suspect a possible faulty ignition switch, as that would cause lack potentially lack of starter operation, lack of radio, lack of AC blower etc.
As with anything, if the problem is not persisting while testing, the test is unlikely to determine anything. It is hard to test for operation when there aren't any problems present.The ignition switch is on the back of the lock housing (opposite where the key goes in). There is one 12V input... you should have 12V there at all times. The other 4 pins get 12V as the key is turned to each position.
Hi,Did we ever find anything conclusive on this issue?