You will need to remove the upper timing covers first. The forward cover is held on by a 12mm bolt down by the alternator and two 10mm bolts along the top. The rear cover shares one 10mm bolt, then has two more behind it, and a 12mm down low (you have to reach it from below with the belt tensioner off).
With both upper covers off, use a 1/2" drive ratchet and/or a 22mm socket on the crank pulley to rotate the engine clockwise. While watching the cams, stop rotating the engine when the small | notches in the face of each cam gear align to the V notches in the valve covers behind them.
If the two cams do not move, of course the belt failed; if the two cams move but do not both line up to the valve covers at the same time, the belt jumped.
If the cams line up to the V notches in the valve covers, then look down the front of the engine at the timing scale on the lower timing cover. It will read "20-15-T" or similar. Pay attention to the | notch cut into the side (right next to the belt contact area) of the crank pulley and see where it aligns on the scale. If it aligns to the T (or can be nudged very close to it) while the cams are lined up, the belt is most likely in time. If the mark is not on or extremely close to the T, the belt jumped time.
Technically to verify 100% you would want to pull the crank pulley and lower timing cover off, just in case the crank gear separated from the reluctor, or the crank pulley spun on its damper etc... these are not too likely though. An external examination is normally sufficient to identify if you have an issue or not.