Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
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you will need to see if the dealer or the shop you have can program the pcm to your vin number. the info from your car needs to be entered into the pcm. then the immobilizer needs to be done
they need the whole car for programming.
did it run with the old pcm??? does it run with the new one????
as I just stated, they need the whole car.
150-175 down here
flashing is nothing but labor. there are no parts involved since you are replacing the unit. if you want them to install the unit, it is 1 hour to replace the pcm.
I understand. try installing the used one and see if it runs.
it still may run. it wont be 100% but it would get you there for the service
no, you do not understand, when you put the used pcm from another car, it may start and run on the program from the other car. then you take it to the dealer and have it programmed to your car. then it will run 100%
try to see f we can save you a tow by seeing if it will run
I just wanted to interject here before you go buying a PCM thinking it might work....The used PCM will not run the vehicle in any capacity until it is programmed. The key immobilizer data is stored inside the PCM, when you put a used one in, it will not recognize your keys until it is programmed. This will require a tow to a dealership to accomplish, but is very cheap (usually 1/2 hour minimum labor charge).
100% correct, the key immobilizer data is recorded in the PCM, so when you put a used one in it is going to have the key signature from the donor car in it, not your keys... until that is done, the fuel injectors are disabled, there is zero chance it will run.
No, it will adapt all of its emissions adjustments, throttle adaptation, shift logic etc... that will all happen automatically. The key programming to the PCM must be done first though, until that is done it will just crank but not start as the injectors are disabled until it reads a matching key.
That was incorrect information unfortunately, which is why I needed to interject; I didn't want you to be under that impression and find yourself stuck still not knowing why it wouldn't run.
Very understandable, and yes as you've seen elsewhere the key does require programming if you replace the PCM or the ETACS on this model. When you replace the PCM, it is part of the VIN coding process (you write the VIN, then the scan tool goes straight to key programming). Unfortunately there isn't any realistic way around this without having them do the programming.... bypass it with donor parts you would be out considerably more money as you would have to swap the PCM, the ETACS, the keys and the lock cylinders in order to have a "match" for the car to start without problems.
No not at all, I apologize that was a little hard to read.If you get a used PCM from ebay, you will need to tow it to the dealership and have it programmed (VIN and key programming, one step process).I was saying that there isn't any affordable way to get around doing that, as the only way to avoid having the programming done would be to get basically the entire immobilizer system (PCM, ETACS, keys, locks). If you went that route you would not require any programming at all (though the VIN would read incorrectly on a scan tool, it would "think" that it matched and wouldn't pose a problem). This would be considerably more work than just getting a used PCM and towing it to a dealer for programming though.
Pretty much yes. It is a single process that writes the VIN and programs the key in one process.
This is not like Chrysler PCMs where there is actual engine control data being written etc, Mitsubishi PCMs aren't like that. They just need the VIN write and key program which is a one step process on the scan tool, takes only a few minutes etc.
Honestly.... I've been working for Mitsubishi for nearly ten years, and I can count on my fingers how many of these 2004-2011 Galants I've had to replace a PCM on. So while it is a pretty safe bet you'll get a good one, it is also a somewhat safe bet yours might not be bad.What is the nature of the failure?
I assume the timing belt had not jumped or anything right?
With regard to the coil melting... these coils do fail like this, however it is possible the PCM caused the failure. It is rare, but does happen.
The engine light doesn't work currently I take it right?
Have you verified all of the fuses, including the ones inside the dash (the coil fuse surely blew if the coil melted, that one is in the dash)
Nope, one charge is all.If you mean the coils were aftermarket ones, then that is not too uncommon for them to fail anyway.So does the engine light work currently?
And the timing belt was not jumped/broken when you changed it?
But does the light come on now, even if just briefly? This is important as it is an indication of if the PCM is doing its self test at key-on.
Great, that is half the battle in itself.Are you able to check for spark while cranking? What about fuel injector pulse?
I wouldn't concern yourself too much with the scan tool issue... these cars are very finicky about who they talk to, and many auto-parts store scan tools can't talk to them at all.
Knowing the light is coming on, we know the PCM is waking up. Knowing there is spark and fuel pump operation, we know the crank sensor is working in at least some capacity.For a component failure, this makes a pretty strong case for a cam sensor; otherwise I would also be a little suspicious of the fuel itself.When you replaced the cam sensor, was it a factory one or aftermarket (purchased anywhere other than a dealership, regardless of packaging)? This is relevant as this vehicle has an issue with aftermarket cam sensors... crank ones aren;t too bad, but the cam ones are extremely rare to work.
Yeah I'd put the original cam sensor in first and foremost then. Its sad, but those cam sensors are literally about 10:1 odds of working... they are a huge source of headaches (and tow ins to my shop, conveniently).Get the original cam sensor in there and see if it sounds at all different when cranking. Then take some starting fluid/ether and give it a few shots into the intake duct and see if the engine catches briefly.
If it catches briefly, then you would be confirming your compression and spark timing are all OK.... leaving you with just fuel control, either you did have a bad cam sensor and just need to get a good one, or you have a fuel source issue (contaminated fuel). The latter would not be too unlikely considering the close timing between the fill up and the problem occurring.
If it does not run on starting fluid briefly, then we might consider a possible PCM issue, but given how many indicators you have that it isn't the problem, I would be surprised. At that point we would want to check the injector pulse on an oscilloscope to see if it is controlling the injectors properly; same for the coils to make sure they are firing in sequence; then compare cam and crank wave forms to make sure they are normal.If there is a problem with the PCM, it would pop up on one of those tests... though again I'd nearly bet the house against it with you having a working engine light, spark while cranking and fuel pump operation. Those are very unlikely to work with a bad PCM, as these PCMs usually are all or nothing... if it is bad, you have no light, no spark, etc.
I'd say about 80% of the time, yes. When we see the PCMs fail you usually have complete failure, light doesn't even come on, or you have individual driver failures... where it runs, but you lose one ignition driver, or one injector driver etc.I can't think of a single instance of total lack of running and still having the PCM power up.
Not a problem... I'd definitely be rechecking everything, PCMs are just too rare to fail on these.If you have an oscilloscope then checking the wave form on the cam and crank sensors would be ideal. Without it....
Verify spark on all four coils while cranking.
Use a noid light or test light on each injector and confirm injector pulse on each injector while cranking.If you have both.... try alternative fuel source, as your only real expectations if you have fuel delivery and spark are going to be compression (not likely if the timing belt didn't break and is installed right) and fuel quality (pressure as well as contamination).If you don't have spark and pulse on all cylinders, then check both the cam and crank sensors to verify the 5V wire with the key on is present, if it is then back probe the 5V wire and manually rotate the engine to make sure you are getting on/off signal from both sensors. This is not as effective as an oscilloscope inspection, but does giv eyou at least an idea if the signal is missing entirely of course.
If you have spark but no injector pulse on any injector... then there is possibly an immobilizer issue or cam sensor issue. The former would require a trip to the dealer of course.If you have spark but only initial injector pulse then nothing, expect the cam sensor.If you have spark only on certain coils and/or injector pulse only on certain injectors, expect a possible PCM issue provided the timing belt is timed right (it will drop partial control if it is out of time).And if you are missing the 5V signal to either cam or crank sensor, expect a wiring or PCM issue.
Not much.... for a complete failure there is usually someone having a hand at it.... doing some "custom" wiring and causing problems, or sticking a test light in places they don't know what they are probing, shorting out the PCM.
For the typical failures we see, usually cheap ignition coils will internally short the 12V supply voltage to the 3V trigger wire and blow out the driver inside the PCM.
Its definitely playing with fire using aftermarket coils on the Galant/Endeavor of this era... they (among most electronics for this generation) are very problematic.However it would be incredibly unlikely if not impossible for that alone to cause a complete PCM failure. It would only blow out the 3V driver, resulting in the affected cylinders coil no longer firing.
Absolutely. The PCM should normally be your last option anyway, but this is even more true on Mitsubishis and this model. You have way to many things pointing toward something more minor (bad tank of gas, new-but-bad cam or crank sensor,, etc).