I'm sorry for the delay.
Having the alternator over charge with the fuse out is a bit disconcerting and would usually indicate the regulator inside the alternator is bad. The regulation system needs to be tested though to identify the issue..... of course fuses need to be installed and verified good as well as battery cables verified intact and not corroded etc.
With the engine idling and all loads off, you will need to put a DC meter between ground and one of the outer pins of the four pin connector on the alternator (connector plugged in) and measure the voltage. Then turn on the blower motor on high and take the voltage reading. Then the defroster, then the high beams.
Turn all loads off and move the meter lead to the other outer pin on the four pin connector and repeat the above steps.
If you see one wire start around 0V and slowly increase in voltage as each load is added, then the other starting at higher voltage (between 5-12v) and slowly decreasing as you add loads, then the PCM control is fine.... you need a new alternator.
If you have one or both wires not behaving as described and showing fixed 0V or fixed 12V for example, then the PCM is suspect.... you would want to verify you don't have any wiring damage and if not then replace the PCM (requires dealer to key program).
The majority of the time it is the alternator. Be aware that you can not use aftermarket alternators on these cars... they do not work properly in these vehicles and in some cases (NAPA, Duralast) they have been known to damage the PCM making a bad condition much worse.