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Doug
Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8538
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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I tried this but the lever only goes up and opens the door.

Customer Question

I tried this but the lever only goes up and opens the door. I was able to get the 2 screws out and un plug a white wire in a harness thing but it still keep the door locked
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

Hi,

What exactly is the original problem you had?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The unlock on the door or key fob would not unlock the lift gate or window
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

Thanks.

Remove the tail gate and glass interior covers, unplug both the glass handle and the tail gate handle, close the glass and manually latch the tail gate (use a screw driver or similar to close the latch) while the tail gate is raised.

In this state, take a piece of jumper wire or a broad screw driver etc and use it to short together the two pins of the tail gate handle harness (the portion going into the car, not the portion going to the handle). Is there any reaction, either the latch releasing or any sound from the area?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I was scared as shit but no noise
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I put a wire from a bread bag in each square thing with an oven mit on. I couldn't get the black plastic totally off
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

That should be fine as long as it is stripped of the insulation... it needs to be bare metal touching it. You don't have anything to worry about as far as personal danger, it is low voltage and low current and you wouldn't even be able to feel it if you laid your finger/tongue/whatever across the terminals.

If you are certain you were on the right harness where the tail gate connector plugs in and there was no change, then please repeat the same process only this time using the glass handle connector. Again harness side, not handle side, and make sure both handles are still disconnected, glass is closed, and tail gate latch is closed. If any of those conditions are not met, the test will be useless.

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok wait, I'm a girl, I was trying to put the wire at the same time Into both boxes. Now I get the short thing hold on. Ok I plugged the window in that I unplugged prior and did the wire thing and nothing
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

Sorry yes you need to take just the body side harness connector that is unplugged from one of the handles and short the two pins inside the connector together.

Do you have both handles unplugged when trying this, and no response from shorting the pins in either connector?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
the female side. (I feel like a mechanic now....not. No sound. One is white the other cream
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Both unplugged
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

Thanks.

With neither responding that narrows us down considerably.... that would limit you (weird items like rodent damage to the wiring excluded of course) to either a passthrough problem (the two big blocks that contact each other between the tail gate and the glass hatch), an ETACS problem (the computer for the fuse box) or an actual fuse issue.
Looking under the hood in the main fuse box you should see two fuses that are captive in a little plastic yellow holder. Are you able to pull this holder out entirely and inspect the fuses visually?

Customer: replied 1 year ago.
It lifts up but doesn't come out. And when I push it back down there's a beep sound in the car
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
the fuse tool from the other box doesn't work on those 2
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I rarely open the glass
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.

Thanks. The holder is a bit of a bugger to get out, you have to pull fairly firmly, and I find it helps to wiggle it while doing so.
My concern here would be if that fuse is blown it will affect the lock operation on the tail gate (though you should see some abnormal behavior from your remote too).
If it is beyond that fuse, with the handles ruled out if we were able to perform that test properly, the next step unfortunately will be to get it to a dealer that can do a ETACS communication with it to see where the command is being lost... if for example one of the two contacts in the tail gate/hatch is malfunctioning, if the ETACS is not sending the command at all, etc.
The majority of the time when we see this is it will be one or the other of the two handles failing... as the failure of one will cause both functions to stop working. It is weird, but it is a side effect of the double-open prevention safety mechanism. Having both unhooked and still not being able to send a good signal to open however puts us beyond the typical and into communication related issues.