Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
When the first coil went like that it should of blown the 10 amp "multi purpose fuse" which would explain why it will not fire now.
The coil may have shorted internally or the wire that goes from that coil to the computer may have shorted to ground as well as the driver for the coil in the computer may have failed.
Do you have a multimeter handy so we can check a few things? Also is the car a manual or auto, so I can pull up the proper diagrams.
Great, lets start by checking for power to the coils. Each one has a black and white wire that powers it. With the key on check for voltage on that wire at each coil and let me know what you find.
I apologize, I steppeed out for lunch.
Solid black wire is ground. If there is power on that wire while unplugged from coils it has shunted to power via a wire in the harness. you may beed to pull back the conduit and inpect that wire.
No power to the coils on the black and white wire means you need to check fuse 24 in the inisde fuse box its 10 amp and is the multipurpose fuse.
Let me know what you find and I can help you further. I will respond as quickly as I can.
OK, it's not starting due to problems on the ground circuit of the coil. The one that has power on the black wire should not.
Unplug both coils and se if you have continuity to ground on the one that does not have power on the black wire.
If you do, cut the black wire on the coil that has poer on the black wire and then using a jumper wire ground the black wire you cut on the coil side of the wire.
It should have spark then. Let me know what you find
Here's a wiring diagram for you. It's not the clearest but it's somewhat legible.
I have to step back out for another 15-20 minutes, will reply ASAP
with both coils unplugged you have the 9 volts on black correct?
Thanks for clearing it up. I know how frutrating electrical stuff can be.
The black wire with blue tracer is what comes from the computer to signal the coil to fire.
Here's what you need to do to check that wire. Disconnect the ecm connector and the connector at that coil. The voltage should go away on that wire. Then ohm it from the computer connector to the coil connector. It should read less than 5 ohms. If both the above check good then the coil driver part in the computer is bad like I emntioned earlier and it will need to be replaced.
It's pin 10 at the computer connector
Thanks, ***** ***** unplugged and still showing voltage it's for sure damaged and picking up power from another wire.
Unfortunately I do not have a picture of the pin outs at the computer connector. What I suggest is starting at each corner of it and counting over to the tenth pin, you'll know it's the right one when it's the black and blue wire.
Also try pulling the fuse that you replaced and see if the black and blue wire loses power with it all unplugged. I have seen connectors go bad internally and let other wires pick up power from a wire with voltage.
That's how the black and white wire should be.
The black and blue still having power with the fuse out lets us know the connectors at the coil are not bad.
There's two ways you could go from here.
1. Remove all the conduit from the harness and check to make sure the black and blue wire is not touching anything where it has a raw o melted spot.
2. Cut the black and blue wire about 3 inches from each connector and replace it with a new wire.
If nothing damaged the computer when that coil failed it should then start.
I know both routes are a pain and time consuming but that's what will need to be done.
It looks like the total cost of your question is 18 from my end. I'm honsetly unable to help further without actually being there at this point.
I'm going to open this back up and see if another expeert has any input.