Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Normally speaking when you have a single spark you will either have a belt timing mismatch (or perceived mismatch, if a sensor is unpredictable) or a driver failure (either in the PTU or the ECU).Considering you do not have any tach movement which you normally will see it try to move just slightly while cranking, I would say the CAS or the PTU are the most likely suspects as both contribute to the signal to the tach. What I would want to do is check the RPM signal on the scan tool when you get the right one and see if there is a reading. If there is not, then check your voltages at the CAS. If your voltages are OK, check for waveform while cranking with it plugged in if you have access to a lab scope to see if it is outputting a signal for the ECU/PTU. If it is not, get a new CAS; if it is, suspect the PTU.
If there is RPM signal from the CAS then I would want to double check your belt timing is 100% dead on. If it is, then wiring aside and with the ECU already eliminated it would be most likely the PTU is bad. The PTU gets three low voltage (under 3V) pulses from the ECU, one for each coil, while you crank the engine. If all three are present then the PTU should output three ground pulses, one for each coil. If you have the low voltage input but not the three ground outputs, then the PTU is bad. Of course if you are missing the low voltage inputs then you would be back to either a timing mismatch or a bad ECU, wiring excluded again.
The ECU can only be tested by swapping into a known working vehicle or sending out for repair to a facility that has the equipment to bench test them. There is no way to bench test these yourself, nor can a dealer do it... special equipment is required.It is best to send these off for repair for that exact reason. While you may not have leaking capacitors now, the old ones may have shorted the board and done untold damage to it.