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Doug
Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8538
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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I changed a transmission on a 2010 mitsubishi lancer es and

Customer Question

i changed a transmission on a 2010 mitsubishi lancer es and put a new clutch but now my clutch isn't allowing me to put the gears in. i have tried to put clutch fluid into the clutch but can't seem to find where to put it in
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Hi,
I take it you did not bleed the clutch after install?
How much fluid is in the brake master cylinder reservoir (these share the same reservoir for brakes and clutch)?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
its almost filled up… how do i bleed the clutch ?
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
You need to get a helper.
Looking at the top/front of the transmission you have that hydraulic line that you had to disconnect to remove the transmission. Where the line enters the transmission there is a bleed screw like on a brake caliper.
Have your helper pump the clutch pedal and hold it down, then open the bleed screw to release the air and retighten. Then have the helper lift the pedal (they made need to reach down and grab it) and then pump and hold the pedal down again while you open the bleed screw once again.
Do this until you have steady fluid exiting the bleed screw, just be sure the pedal is not released until the bleed screw is tightened each time, and keep an eye on the brake fluid level and add as needed.
Let me know when you have steady fluid each time you open the bleeder screw and we can see if the behavior changes any.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
ok thank thank you ima try it
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
I'll be here.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
well i did it and it worked for a little then again i couldn't put any gear in
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
If it worked temporarily it sounds like you were on track....
1) Are you certain that both your bleed screw and wherever you unhooked the hydraulics to remove the transmission were perfectly tight after bleeding?
2) Was the slave cylinder replaced during the clutch job (the part that the hydraulic hose attaches to inside the transmission)? If so, is there any signs of dampness at all on the bottom of the transmission currently?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
well i got brake fluid everywhere from the bleed so i think ima wait until tomorrow so it can dry up and see if it leaks from inside
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
the slave cylinder came with the used transmission
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
another does the car have to been on to do the bleeding?
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
The car does not need to be on to bleed it.
Lets get everything cleaned up tomorrow, then bleed it again but use a hose attached to the bleed screw so you can direct the fluid into a bucket etc. Get it to the condition that you are getting operation temporarily again, then check the underneath to see if any fluid is developing on the bottom... this is a giveaway that the slave cylinder is bad and will need replacement (or swapping out of your old transmission).
Looking at this from another angle.... If the clutch worked fine before the transmission swap, then you can be sure your problem will only be either more air still in the system (so more bleeding is in order... again be sure you don't run the reservoir empty etc) or the slave cylinder is defective. There would be no other reason to see this condition form if the clutch worked fine before.
IF however the same condition was present on the clutch when the old transmission was in (and the transmission was changed trying to fix this issue to no avail), then you would only expect a faulty master cylinder (the plastic tube that is mounted to the clutch pedal and has the hydraulic line coming off it).
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok thanks Ima try it again tomorrow
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
the reason that I changed the transmission was cause my first gear wasn't grabbing and my fourth was grinding plus I had to change the clutch already
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Sounds good. With the clutch working fine before, there really isn't too much to consider apart from those things.... it worked before and not after, so just the new parts (in this case the slave cylinder on the used transmission) and the hydraulic lines (having air in them etc) are it. The only other variable is if the clutch disc is put in back ward... however when that is done it is usually pretty noisy so you would normally know right away if that is it :)
I think it is pretty unlikely you had an existing master issue or anything like that, since you were only having a specific gear issue etc. Possible, but very unlikely to not affect all gears.
If you need help tomorrow I will be here.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Ok thanks
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
You're welcome!
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Hi sorry been too busy at work haven't had time to work on the car but today I tried again to bleed the clutch and again it just worked for a bit and stop grabbing gears
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
If you are able to bleed it and get operation, your only possible causes here are either a bad slave cylinder or a bad master cylinder.
A bad slave cylinder will leak fluid out pretty much without exception. It is extremely difficult to have one fail without having an external leak. If you are seeing fluid on the bottom of the transmission where it joins the engine etc, then the slave cylinder is failed.
If you are not seeing any fluid loss at all, then barring anything obvious like you aren't getting the bleed screw tight etc you will be looking at a bad master cylinder. The master cylinder will cause you to re-introduce air into the system -without- any external leaks due to internal seal failure. If you bleed the system and it works OK then after a few shifts etc you lose clutch again, this is the master cylinder internally aerating. Replacement of the master cylinder is the only option at that point (the part of the system attached to the clutch pedal, where the hydraulic line is attached). Given your symptoms prior to the transmission replacement, it sounds like this may have been on its way out to begin with.

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