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Doug
Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8568
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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Have 2001 mitsubishi eclipse when i hook up code reader i get

Customer Question

have 2001 mitsubishi eclipse when i hook up code reader i get fail on the setup mode for almost all tests then get crank and cam senor codes this is an automatic and just had trans work done have checked grounds but havn't found any lose engine ran find before now won't idle
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Hi,
Was the transmission work the only thing that was done, or wad there any engine maintenance performed?
Do you have a multi meter and are comfortable using it?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
no engine work done before problem, Yes have multi meter and fair at using it
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
Is this a four cylinder or V6 model?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
3.0 six cyclinder
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
(Posted by JustAnswer at customer's request) Hello. I would like to request the following Expert Service(s) from you: Live Phone Call. Let me know if you need more information, or send me the service offer(s) so we can proceed.
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
Before doing anything else, remove the forward timing cover above the alternator, it is held on with two 10mm bolts and one 12mm bolt then it just slides out.
Then go below through the wheel well and use a 1/2" ratchet or a ratchet with 22mm socket to rotate the engine clockwise by hand. Turn the engine until the timing mark on the front cam is aligned to the V notch in the valve cover.
Once the cam is perfectly aligned, look down the front of the engine at the plastic timing scale that reads "20-10-T". Tell me where in that scale the mark on the crank shaft pulley lines up.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
T
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
it lines up as T
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
Leave the belt in this position and remove the rear upper cover just enough to read the timing mark (it is real right top remove, so just do what you need to view the mark).
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
the notch lines up with the cam
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
And there is no visible signs of damage anywhere around the wire harness right? No evidence of anyone fooling with the distributor or its wiring?
If not, we are going to need to pull the crank pulley and lower timing cover off and compare the crank gear timing mark to the crank reluctor timing mark and see if they both coincide with the oil pump mark.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
would any of this explain the fail on the code reader
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Yes.
The cam and crank sensor codes coming up are indicating that the cams and the crank are not in correlation. This can only be related to the belt timing (including the reluctor on the crank gear), the sensors themselves going bad, or a computer/wiring issue.
As long as those codes are set, your readiness will all fail to run.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
ok hAVE REPLACED CRANK SENSOR NOT CAM
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
The cam sensor is part of the distributor and is not separately serviceable.
Did you have the exact conditions before you changed the crank sensor? The reason I ask is that this vehicle has huge problems with aftermarket crank sensors... if you changed it with an aftermarket and the conditions changed at all, you probably have a new bad sensor.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
NO IT DIDN'T CHANGE at all . found a broken crank sensor the tabs were broken but as i said it ran perfect before trans work
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
got to go for now will pick this up tomorrow
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
No problem, I'll be here.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
ok talk with you then
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Ok
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Have the crank cover off what should line up
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Hi,
We want to see the dimple on the face of the gear aligned to the v notch in the reluctor plate behind the gear, and both aligned to the straight raised rib on the oil pump.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
All are aligned
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
And you said you had replaced the crank sensor on this vehicle already right?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes when I started this as I said it was in place but broke I was following the code reader
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Right, and there was no change in condition when you changed the sensor right? If there was, did you use a factory or aftermarket sensor?
If you unplug the crank sensor, do you have 12v and 5v on two of the harness wires (I apologize if I asked that already, I'm on my phone at the moment and can't read that far back)?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
11.9 on the center pole 5 on the other
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
Just for the sake of being thorough, let's plug the sensor back in and back probe the 5v wire. Then rotate the crankshaft by hand... Does the voltage alternate 5-0-5-0 etc?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes it does
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
If the crank sensor is known good (new, so it *should* be) and the belt is definitely lined up perfectly with regard to both the cam gears, the crank gear and the crank reluctor, your only possible areas of concern would be the distributor or the PCM.
PCMs are very rare to fail in general, and when they do this is not typically how they fail anyway (usually four cylinder models, and the ignition drivers go bad).
I would say given the crank sensor being assumed good, the timing verified perfect, fuses all ruled out and the recent transmission work, I would be most suspicious of the distributor itself (because it includes the cam sensor) or the wiring to the distributor. It is certainly possible that either could have been damaged during the transmission work.
What I would be doing at this point would be thoroughly examining the distributor wiring for signs of damage... pinching, rubbing/chaffing, broken wires etc... and if nothing is out of sorts I would try another distributor. The cam/crank faults only come on together like that as a result of a timing correlation problem. If belt is lined up right and the crank reluctor lined up right, that pretty well puts you down to the distributor (cam sensor) or PCM (wiring assumed ok)... and only the distributor/wiring would be likely to have been damaged during the transmission job.

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