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Doug
Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8542
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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I have a Mitsubishi endeavor 2006 and ac is not working

Customer Question

i have a Mitsubishi endeavor 2006 and ac is not working
Submitted: 1 year ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
a/c compressor is kicking in, air is blowing, it is just hot. I have put a vacuum on the system for about an hour and a half, and just now loaded some Freon. I used two gauges just to confirm the other was correct. after loading first can of Freon, gauge never moved from 0. tried the other gauge and same thing, 0psi. Compressor clutch is on all this time. I emptied that can, 16oz I believe, started the other can, and nothing, gauges stayed at 0 and air is still hot inside(after 2 cans have been loaded)
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Hi,
Do you have actual ac gauges you can use to check low and high side pressures?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
yes sir
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Great. I'm sorry for the delay.
When hooked up with the engine off, what readings do you get on both sides?
What happens to the readings exactly when the clutch engages?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
I will check right now
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
ok, with car OFF, low side is 95psi and high is 115psi.....with car on, low drops to 4psi and high goes to 145psi
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
low side on OFF position right now is 25 psi
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.... those are pretty interesting readings. Static we would expect to see 70-100 psi depending on ambient etc... seeing over 100 is usually an indication of over charge.
However when you turn the AC on the numbers appear just the opposite... like there is not enough in there.
This system only holds around 500 grams... when you charged the system I know you mentioned two cans; you didn't put two full cans in for sure did you? (That would be about 200% charged)
When you charged the system, was it vacuumed first to get the moisture out?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Yes system was vacuumed, and to my understanding, the manual said system takes in 20oz of freon so that's the measurements I went by, I tried to get as close as I could to 20 oz....each bottle contained 12oz not 16 sorry
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
That will be a lot better, let me check the spec with Mitsubishi right quick.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK thanks
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Yeah you're in pretty good shape there... exact spec is 560-600, right where you were aiming (19.7-21.1 ounces).
When the AC is running, place your hand along the pipes... from the compressor to the fire wall, compressor to condenser, condenser to firewall etc...and if possible and you have a infrared temperature gun shoot at the condenser and drier. Do you notice any cool spots in the system?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK, I touched all pipes and all were somewhat cool except for the lone going to condensor(passenger side) that one was really hot
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
And I don't have an infraded camera sorry
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
No problem at all.
So you are seeing temperature drop but not substantial differential anywhere (no position where its suddenly very cold). The hot line is normal.
I'm suspecting that either those cans may have had an issue (sometimes self service cans have more gunk than refrigerant in them) or possibly there is still excessive moisture in the system.
When you vacuumed the system, were you able to pull a solid 30inHg? When you unhooked the vacuum pump, did it retain full vacuum or did it drop off a percentage right away?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
Well i bought a big can of freon before doing this whole procedure and it did exactly the same thing , and I bought these other 2 small can for the same reason, I tought the first one was garbage, so I vacuumed for about 1.5 hrs , and yes I had roughly 30in and yes after shutting pump off I left it with valves closed for about 1.5 hrs and it maintained that vacuum
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
Without any other abnormalities that is a pretty tough one to consider. The only thing really left would be a weak compressor or a slightly sticking open expansion valve. The compressors are pretty common to fail, the expansion valves are not.
Is there anything else noteworthy leading up to this situation? Any particular event before the problem occurred, or any unusual symptoms like strange noises (seemingly unrelated) leading up to the day the AC stopped?
Also, when you vacuumed the system was it already empty or did you have refrigerant in it? I assume you didn't have any way to scale the removed refrigerant if there was some?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
The air just gradually got hotter ,nothing from one day to another. The compressor did seem to have relieved some pressure the first time I was putting some freon, somewhat like a pressure relief valve does. It did it for maybe 3 minutes and then stopped. But that seemed to have helped, because air felt a tiny bit cooler after that happened and I loaded some new freon. When i vacuumed there was a small amount of freon and no I was unable to retain anywere
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
I'm not a big fan of coincidences or two things happening at once etc. And considering that the refrigerant amount that exited was small, I would have to think the primary failure was the loss of refrigerant. I would find it unlikely to expect that happened -and- there was another issue etc.
And keeping that in mind... it puts us back to the refrigerant. Were these straight R134A cans, no additives listed on the can (like "10 ounces R134, 2 ounces leak stopper and dye" etc)?
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
No, it was straight 134,no additives at all
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
That is just really weird.
So assuming everything is normal on the car... your pressures are pretty low when operating. We would expect to see at the last 180+ high side pressures when running and you are well below that.
Since we have little to do from here apart from getting it on a proper recovery machine (so the exact amount can be monitored/removed etc), can we try shooting a little more out of that second can in there? My thinking being perhaps the first can was not full etc.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK, I will do that and get back with you
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Thanks.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
OK, just finished up and nothing. Gauge didn't move when compressor was on and air didn't get colder
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
Very strange.
At this point I think what we need to do to really eliminate the variables is to get the system evacuated by machine so that a scaled charge can be performed. Without knowing 100% how close the charge is we really are stabbing blindly at it without having any other clues where we have looked into.
These systems do have issues with as little as 10-15% variance off of the prescribed charge amount... and I don't think we are lucky enough to have hit it on the mark, it is pretty hard to do.
While again we could speculate about things like a weak compressor or similar, I think you want to make sure 100% that the charge is dead on the money and what the pressures look like then. If you still have the same pressures, then I would only really expect a compressor at that point (low high side pressure, normal charge, no signs of blockage otherwise). Obviously if the pressures come up differently it would have other implications etc; if the system works then well then you would know the charge amount was just off etc.
Customer: replied 1 year ago.
What's the reason I am not getting any read when clutch is on, on the low side?
Expert:  Doug replied 1 year ago.
I thought you were seeing 4 psi range?
A low pressure like that would be either undercharge situation or a weak compressor. Both will give you low readings on both sides (considering you would expect 20-50 and 190-290, both your readings are low).
If you are actually seeing zero and not 4 psi, then you would expect a blockage. This doesn't sound like what you are experiencing though, as you are seeing some pressure... a blockage will either be solid and you will see 0 psi or even a vacuum -and- you will see high pressure on the high side, or a partial blockage that will give typical pressures (though slightly dependent on where the blockage is located in relation to the service ports) but you will have a very noticeable temperature differential (line getting significantly colder in a location other than the expansion valve).