Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Name is***** goal is to provide you with excellent service – if you feel you have gotten anything less, please reply back,What year was the Hyundai Sonata engine .Your original is a 6G72.The Sonata is a G6-TBut basically the same engine as built by Mitsubishi .The No. 1 piston must be at TDC and not half way down .The No. 1 piston is the front passengers sideIf the Number 1 was half way down then there is something wrong with the crank sprocket , remove and check that the woodruff key has not stripped .If all is good and the Piston is at TDC i would recheck that the ignition is correctly fitted and adjusted .Check this and then please get back to me if needed with the reply button, and not the poor or bad service, this way i can get back to you or suggest another expert if needed.Your deposit does not pay me until the answer is rated in a positive way,Not rating or a bad rating does not constitute a refund, if you are not happy or you have sorted out your problem before the answer then please let me know.Kind regards Greg." If you are not satisfied please don't rate" poor or bad as this will not refund your depositRgds Greg
When we lined up the marks on the cams and crank and they were spot on, the piston was not TDC, when the number one piston was TDC then the mark on the crank would be 90 degrees to the right.
The woodruff key is fine.
When you say recheck the ignition, are you saying that the ignition can be put in wrong? How many ways can it be put in? Please note I am not the mechanic I am the owner, this info will be passed to the mechanic, but I thought it can only go in one way?
By the way the Sonata was a 1990 engine..
Perhaps it is a different problem but working on this for over a month I think it is related to the timing belt... but getting number one piston up and all marks correct... tough bugger??? and strange..
How can I check the ignition?
OK, I will have the mechanic do this today and get back to you ion a few hours and let you know the results, hopefully good..
I did not want to tear out everything to set up all three marks, but I may have to, anyway I did take out number one cylinder plug and made sure it was tdc. I then looked at the rotor and it was not pointed to number one. We then set it up to point to number one and it would not even start. We played with it but no matter where we pointed it, it just did not run well, in fact the same way. So the next plan is to take off everything and try and set up the three marks TDC, make sure number one cylinder is on top, but last time we had cylinder on top the crank TDC was 90 degrees to the right, if we putt he crank back to TDC then the piston went down, not top. So do you advise me to place all three marks TDC and no matter where the piston lands, to check the distributor and see where it is, or the opposite, to make sure number one cylinder in on top, and no matter the crank position to then check it?
Some more info for your perusal.. and it may help..
At this time everything imaginable that may be causing this problem has been gone over and or purchased, still the same problem, idles at around 1500 rpm and rough, and when you give it gas it goes to around 3000-3500 rpm and then bogs down, chokes...
if you give it gas slowly and a bit at a time you can reach 4000 RPM without much incidents, but I mean very slow. Albeit still sluggish and rough..
I just cleaned the MAF terminals.. and the linkage with the proper stuff..
I think you are correct it has something to do with the "Marks", the number one piston and the distributor, but I will be darned if I or about three other mechanics can figure it out..
OK, will do that but if it is like the last time we tore it down, it will be 90 degrees to the right..of the mark, the crankshaft mark I mean, the cams are dead on.
I doubt I will get a chance to do it today, maybe, but tomorrow for sure and I will take a lot of pictures..
Thanks for your help..
Sorry it took so long to get back to you, seems the mechanic I had scheduled did not show up, scheduled another, same story... shame..
Anyway I thought I would replace the last thing that I think could have caused the problem, the MAF, just did that and it runs a bit better but still around 3000 RPM it bogs down big time... if you take it up a little at a time you can get it past 4000 rpm but bogs big time. It also sounds like a little miss in it, not much..
I guess I will have to tear this down myself, not to good at this stuff, but I saw it twice, think I can do it. First I will make positively certain the number one cylinder is tdc before I pull anything off, as promised I will take pics.. sory I am late..
And the "Check Engine" light is still on... wish I had a ODB I, cannot find anyone with one..