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Doug
Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8538
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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Mitsubishi Eclipse GS: 2003 eclipse gs .crank but wont sta

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2003 eclipse gs .crank but wont start
Hi,

Did anything noteworthy occur between the last time it ran and the first time it didn't start?
Do you have spark?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

i both the car and the timing was broken ,took the head out and got it fix ,put the head bak on ,put the timing belt try to started wont start,got the plugs out and i crank the car ,and it get spark . when i pull them off they where wet of gasoline

Thanks.

What are your compression readings?
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

N1. 130ps

N2. 140ps

N3. 120ps

N4. 145ps

Thanks.

Unfortunately that is not sufficient for the engine to run. Specification compression is 185 psi and the absolute minimum that will still have any ignition regardless of running quality is 140.
You've got two that are below minimum for combustion, one that is teetering right on the edge, and another that is just barely over.

Given the head was just worked, you should be in the 170 range or higher (~10% or so to account for ring wear).

At this point I would perform a leak down test to see if you can verify where your compression loss is (valve related or head gasket related/improper torque etc) and address that first. Even if there were something else wrong (which there really isn't anything else when you have fuel and spark... ignition timing but that is a huge long shot on a four cylinder model).... you should not be able to run at those numbers and if you did it would run terribly.
Customer: replied 3 years ago.

how do i perform a leak down test

I apologize for the delay.

You will need a leak down tester, which is similar to a compression tester but it has a hook up for an air line as well.
With the cam removed so that the valves are fully closed (ruling out a problem with your belt being misaligned), pressurize one cylinder at a time and monitor the gauge to see how much loss is occurring. Then listen to the throttle body opening... if there is whistling/air rushing, then you have intake valve sealing issues on that cylinder. If you hear the air rushing at the tail pipe, then you have exhaust valve sealing issues on that cylinder. If the coolant bubbles you have head sealing problems, and if there is air rushing from the oil cap opening you have ring problems.

If there is no noticeable air rushing occurring, then the head was likely not torqued down properly.
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Customer: replied 3 years ago.

thanks i will do that