Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
The ticking did go away, and stayed away during myXXXXX I did look at the back side of the oil cap and the valve mech - is was brown / yellowish - looked like a laquer on it - there was no thickness to it - not like a sludge. I thought of maybe using a rislone to clean it up.
I used autolite plugs -these were the same thing mitsubishing installed when it was new. They hadn't been changed in 146k miles. I used a premium wire - they called them import direct I think. I don't thing the iac or throttle body have ever been cleaned. I was thinking of doing this next if the idle instability continued.
Interesting with the spark plugs. The wires still had the oem cyl #'s on them - so I assumed these were oem. I have never seen these on replacement wires. The #1 plug had failed - part of the porcelan was broken and floating around at the bottom of the plug - this is the same cyl as the original misfire code.
What is the FPR hose? I am normally pretty gentle when removing parts - so I don't expect any torn or missing hose. But then again there is always the possibility of missing something...or it was missed before me and I didn't notice.
I replaced the plenum gasket - so hopefully no intake leaks there. I'll try the brake clean trick tomorrow.
I had the same idea with the misfire and the collapsed lifter - good to confirm with another expert. Thanks,
The wires were OEM if numbered... I have never seen aftermarket numbered wires. If they were OEM they also will have the build date of the wires printed on them alongside the numbering (probably 2001 if original). This isn't an indication of plug life though, as the wires will normally make it 90k with no issues, and if the oil leaks are kept under control (the seals around the spark plug tubes leak oil into the plug holes) I have seen original wires over 200k. I wouldn't recommend going over 60k on them, but they will take it as long as they don't get oil saturated.The FPR (fuel pressure regulator) hose is the one that goes from the drum at the drivers end of the forward fuel rail back to a nipple on the plenum just behind the throttle body. I don't have a good photo but I do have this diagram that should help (you can verify your other vacuum hoses against it too just in case):Typically what I will see most often is that one end or the other gets pushed down under wiring etc and forgotten. I've done this myself on a few occasions... sometimes it just gets in the right spot where you don't see it and if you aren't thinking about it nothing looks out of place etc. On some occasions (typically higher mile cars or cars that have overheated) I will see the plenum end actually melt onto the nipple, then on removal will either create a small tear or pinhole from pulling it, etc.
ok - thanks - I paid specific attention to that hose and it is connected properly. I didn't notice any issues with any of the hoses, all seemed to be flexable - no brittle or cracked hoses.
Do I need to remove the IAC to clean it - or can I remove the intake hose and spray in there?
I normally use a throttle body spray - someone once told me there were coatings on those parts -so I use it - not sure how necessary, but that is what I normally do.
I have brake clean as well - can I use either of these?
Thanks - was thinking more about the idle instability....does it make sense that it idles fine for about 30 seconds, then has instability. I'd then rev it to 2000 rpm for 15-20 sec, and let it go back to idle - it would idle fine for 30 sec or so and flutter again.
My friend did say that the idle at times would jump around...so this may not be new - he may have had two issues- the misfire due to cyl 1 plug being broken, and a dirty iac or throttle body. I'll clean tomorrow and let you know what I found.
Thanks for the help and insight....I like how thorough you are in each response. That helps especially with an issue like this.