Thanks for your patience, there was still a good bit I wanted to cover in addition to the manual material.
I am attaching the PDF of the engine repair section of the Factory Service Manual below:6G7x Engine Repair Manual
For your timing belt job turn to pages 11A-6-1 through 11A-6-6. It will have all of your alignment marks provided as well as tensioner information, etc. Most torque specifications are on the first page, however any missing (I believe the harmonic balancer is omitted) will be in the "Specifications" section at the beginning of the PDF.
The waterpump section is further down, but for the most part it is simply remove bolts, pull out water pump once you get the belt off.
I will give you some supplemental information here:
When removing the belt, take the bolts out of the hydraulic tensioner only. Leave the mechanical tensioner set. Once the belt is off, you can spin check the mechanical tensioner to listen for noise or looseness. If there is none and you don't need to replacement, then you won't have to adjust it later since it is already properly set. If you were to loosen this bolt in the mechanical tensioner, you really need the special tool to adjust it again. Considering these rarely fail, it can save you a bundle of time doing it this way and not having to readjust it later.
When doing the water pump, aftermarket pumps will only be "half" a pump. They are half the price of factory units because you don't get the whole thing. The water pump is a large chunk of aluminum that goes all the way up to the thermostat neck, etc. Aftermarket units will only give you the front half. Now reliability of some aftermarket pumps aside, there is a bigger immediate issue with this. When you remove six of the large bolts for the front half of the water pump, you are loosening the rear half of the pump from the block. This compromises the gasket back there and you will often end up with a coolant leak after installing a new half-pump. To combat this, apart from recommending a factory pump anyway, I strongly recommend getting the gasket that goes on the back of the pump housing, then removing the entire pump housing to install the water pump, using the new gasket between the housing and the block. This extra 15 minutes is worth it in the case that you did get a leak there as you would avoid having to pull the whole front end down again.
You'll see the gasket I mentioned on page 11A-8-1, numbered "9". This picture will be slightly different from yours as a front wheel drive 6G72 is shown which has a smaller pump housing, but the information is all the same otherwise.
Here is what your pump and gasket will look more like (that gasket is "11" in this picture):
Your valve seals will require the intake to be removed. This is not specifically covered in this manual (As again the pictures are primarily FWD 6G7's). I am attaching the appropriate RWD intake manifold disassembly and torque info below; the parts are numbered in order of removal:
Once removed you will be able to get to your valve covers to unbolt and remove them (this takes some tricky maneuvering). You will want to not just have new valve cover gaskets but also new spark plug tube seals as well. If your plug wires are oil soaked on removal, you will want to replace the wire set.
Once in there you will see rocker shafts over the valves. These are held in by 12mm bolts, loosen them evenly to remove them... be prepared for the lash adjusters to drop out. We have special tools that hold them in, but you can just lift one rocker at a time and loop some masking tape around it to temporarily hold them.
Do NOT mix up the shafts. They can go back together backwards and this will block oil flow, so make sure you note the side and orientation of each.
The manual is not going to have steps for on-car stem seal replacement as this isn't an approved repair method. You and I both know there is no sense in removing the heads for seal replacement though.
Hook up your air line to one cylinder at a time and release the valve retainers one at a time. I use a chrome socket with a small magnet in it to put over the stem then pop it with a rubber mallet. This will quickly compress the spring and release the keepers and hopefully catch them in the magnet then you can remove the spring and perch.
Removing the old seals I like to use an old pair of spark plug wire pliers like we used on the old american V8s. They usually grip them just about right then pull and twist to remove.
To install the new seal, slide it over the stem then use a 10mm 1/4 inch drive six point deep well socket to slide over the stem and top of the seal then tap into place. It will snap on when it seats.
Reinstall the spring and perch, then use an automatic keeper tool to set the keepers back in (Lisle makes these and they are available at a lot of auto parts stores).
If you have any questions please just let me know.
IF you feel the need to use one of the lower two negative ratings, please contact me first via the Reply/Continue Conversation link so that I may address your concerns.