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Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 8535
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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Mitsubishi ch: Have a ch 2005 lancer, replaced the ignition

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Have a ch 2005 lancer, replaced the ignition barrel and key, kept the old key reader and wcm. New key reprograms and locks and unlocks the doors, but the engine will rotate but not fire.

Can you please describe the method that was used to program the immobilizer portion of the key?

Customer: replied 4 years ago.

key put in ignition in off position, data link ports 1 and 4 bridged then within 10secs hazard light switch pressed 6 times, door lock locks then unlocks then press lock button 3 times within 10 secs, door locks operate once to lock then unlock, bridge between 1 and 4 removed then key removed from barrel.


Unfortunately this is not the way to program the immobilizer, this is only to program the keyless remote function.

Programming of the immobilizer key requires either a scan tool with immobilizer programming support or two working keys that are already programmed to the computer.

I know your old key/cylinder are removed, but do you have two keys for it still?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.

No only have ever had the one key.


Unfortunately at this point you have no choice but to take the vehicle to either a dealer or a locksmith with confirmed Mitsubishi Immobilizer support.

In the meantime, you can get the vehicle to run if you still have the old key. Is the old key still available?
Customer: replied 4 years ago.




Sorry for the delay, I am having some connectivity issues. Give me a few minutes to type out some instructions for you.
Thanks for your patience.

There are a few ways you can get the vehicle running to get it to a shop for programming. It is not an exact science but will get the job done with a little patience.

Because the old key is still registered in the PCM, the engine will still run with this key. Of course the key won't fit in the ignition anymore, so we have a hurdle to overcome here.
In order for the PCM to read the key, the head needs to be within about 2-3 cm or so of the lock cylinder (in the same proximity as when a key is inserted).
The problem here is that with the new key installed in the cylinder, not the two transponder chips will interfere with each other, preventing the transponder from being read correctly.

There are two ways to over come this issue.

The easiest way is to shield the new unprogrammed transponder. To do this, take some aluminum foil and wrap the head of the new key several times. The foil will shield the RF signal and prevent the two transponders from getting garbled.
With the new key head wrapped, insert it into the ignition.
Take the old key and hold it so the two heads are overlapping each other (old key pointing away from the column) and turn the key to Start. If the new key is shielded enough and the old key is right in the reading area, the engine will start. Keep the key in this position for at least 3 seconds before moving it. Once the engine has been running a few seconds it does not need to be there any longer.

The second option is a bit more invasive but essentially accomplishes the same thing.
For this method we will want to start the car with the old key in the ignition, just not turned. You will need to remove the steering column covers for this by taking out the philips screws holding the top and bottom halves together, then unsnap the covers and remove them from the column.
With the column exposed, look at the back side of the key cylinder, on the opposite side of the column as where the key goes in. You will see a plastic round component with a six pin plug pointing forward, screwed right into the back of the lock housing. This is the ignition switch. Remove the screw holding the ignition switch in and slide it out, leaving it plugged in.
Now insert the old key into the ignition. Take the new key or a flat edge screw driver and insert it into the inner side of the ignition switch and turn the switch manually to the Start position all the way clockwise. When the engine starts, release the key/screw driver and the switch will return to the On position, leaving the engine running.
At this point, after waiting 3 seconds or so for the immobilizer to shut off completely, you can pull the old key out of the ignition and insert the new key and turn it (unlocking the steering wheel) and you can then drive the car.

There is one last thing you can do but only if you have the integrated key fob type key. In this instance, you can use a small flat edge screwdriver to pop open the head of both keys. Once both are apart, transfer the guts from the old key to the new key. Note that you will need to perform the keyless programming again (the pins 1 and 4, etc), as each time you do that it deletes the old wireless codes.
This will ONLY work if you have the integrated key/remote. If you have the sealed head key and separate remote, you will have to do one of the first two options and take the vehicle in for programming.

If you have any questions just let me know.
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