my 2003 galant....only cold air comes out of heater.......sometimes I hear a ratchety sound under the dashboard when I play with the heat control
Country: United StatesMake: MitsubishiModel: Galant ESYear: 2003Engine: 4 cyl
checked fuse....coolant level
HiIf the engine speed is increased does the temperature change significantly or not much?Does the ratchety sound seem to be coming from the center or maybe a little to the right of center of the dashboard when it occurs?Thanks
temp does not change much
rachety sound seems to be coming from the center to left center
Thanks.Just for clarity:You aren't having any problems with the air direction (face, defrost, floor) being changed.The temperature gauge on the dash is operating normally, and is stable around halfway up the gauge when warmed up.Are those both accurate?
yes....both your statements are accurate
Thanks.Based on the information you have provided, it is most likely that you are experiencing a failure of the water-shut valve motor on the center of the AC box.On typical HVAC systems you have a heater core inside that generates heat and an evaporator core that generates cold, and air is aimed over which one you request to supply the desired air temperature.On the 2002-2003 Galant this system is slightly different. Because of the amount of radiant heat that is generated from the heater core, it has a supplementary step to insure that the AC is still working at peak performance regardless of the excess radiant heat. This consists of a valve just ahead of the heater core which is used to shut off the flow of coolant through the heater core. By cutting off the flow of coolant through the heater core, it prevents the core from generating that excess radiant heat except for when it is needed by setting the heat dial.Now getting back to your problem, the water shut off valve is controlled by a small electric motor which opens and shuts the valve based on your requests from the temperature knob. These motors are well known for failure; the symptoms when they fail are either no heat whatsoever, or insufficient cooling (if it fails with the valve open instead of closed), accompanied by clicking noises from the motor as the gear strips out when you turn the temperature knob to extremes, making it try to move the valve.Based on your initial symptoms as well as the additional information you were able to provide, it sounds pretty certain the water shut off valve motor has failed (not the valve itself, the motor). A new motor will run you about $140 from Mitsubishi. Installation takes about one hour, and can be done without dash removal. You can get to the motor by removing the radio/ac controls as well as glove box to gain access. Expect about one hour in labor to have this replaced for you.If you have any questions, just let me know; I would be happy to elaborate.Doug C41026.0846362616
that sounds correct...i had a suspicion that it was some type of plastic gear in the heater unit because of the rachety noise...... is the gear incorporated in the valve.......changing the valve will cure my problems?
The gear is internal to the motor. You will not need to get involved in the valve at all (which is good.... this requires dash removal, to th e tune of about 4-5 hours shop labor).I am attaching a picture of the motor for the shut valve. You will see there is a lever attached to it, this is the gear driven portion that fails. the actual valve portion has a actuating rod that attaches to the lever on the motor.While technically it is possible for the valve to jam, causing the motor to strip out through no fault of it's own... this is not very likely however. I have never seen nor even heard of one of these valves failing. If you wanted to be certain however, you can remove the motor and then grab the actuating rod after the motor is removed and verify if you can move it or not. If you can move the rod, the valve is moving freely and you will just need the motor as is usually the case.
Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician