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Doug
Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 6659
Experience:  Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
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2001 mitsubishi diamante: volt..15amp fuse under the hood..fuse box

Customer Question

I have a 2001 Mitsubishi Datmante I had a 2.8 volt drain on the battery until pulled a 15amp fuse under the hood it has a yellow box around it and a 10 amp fuse. After I pulled the fuse the draw was gone. the fuse box cover has a light symbol next to the 15 amp fuse. I also lost power to the radio and door locks. Any idea what may have shorted to cause this? Also The interior lights did not work before this started happening. They did work in the past also the lights automatic on & off has not worked for about a year
Submitted: 2 years ago.
Category: Mitsubishi
Expert:  Doug replied 2 years ago.
Hi,

This circuit it normal to have a draw; it powers the ETACS for retained power to monitor the door switches, save your radio presets, monitor the wireless radio for the remotes, etc.

The reason that the yellow box is there to pull the fuses out is so that the draw can be eliminated while the vehicle is sitting at the port awaiting new car delivery, or if the vehicle is put into storage. Again it is normal to have a draw there.

I would start by removing the yellow box all the way from the fuse panel, you can do this by pulling and rocking left to right to pull the locking tab past the fuse panel. The yellow box will come all the way out, then you can use a pair of pliers to remove the fuses from the yellow box and inspect them individually and replace as needed. If the fuses are both OK, and you have verified all other fuses are fine, you are going to need to start doing inspections at each of your interior lights and harness for any issues.

With regard to your 'draw', there is no accurate way to measure a draw in volts, it does not work that way. You need to measure it in amperes to determine if there is an issue or not. To do this you need to set your meter to amperes, reinstall the wire leads into the 1A or 10A (always start with 10A then move on to 1A after the draw is determined safe to avoid blowing your meter if you have a example 5A draw), then disconnecting the negative battery terminal and wiring the meter in series between the battery post and the battery terminal.
From there your meter will tell you the size of the draw in amps. Depending on the result it can either be an acceptable draw (for example 40mA or 0.040A) or an unacceptable draw (for example 350mA or 0.350A). Then based on that number you can determine if the the draw is a topic for discussion or if it is a normal condition.

Again this is the only way to measure a draw accurately, voltage does not tell you anything... you can have a 12V draw at 0.001A that means nothing or a 0.2V draw at 50A that kills the battery in a half hour. You need to measure amperes before determining if this is part of your issue or not.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
The draw was 2.8 amps instead of volts my mistake. The amps were checked by Advance auto parts store using their tester for the battery and alternator it also checks amp draw. You think it might be the door switchs since the interior lights do not work with a good fuse in. Could you send me the wiring diagrams? I have good knoldage of wiring since I have repaired CNC Equipment
Expert:  Doug replied 2 years ago.
Ah okay that makes more sense, however the tester they use is not particularly accurate in that it can only guess at fluctuations in the battery, it does not actually measure the loss as using a meter in-line does. The 2.8A is also really, really large and seemingly unlikely. It is possible of course, it is just really rare to see more than 1A on most draws (usually a few hundred mA on most problems).

Anyway, the door switches are not terribly likely in this instance, but we can't know for sure since the lights do not work. Keep in mind the switches simply add ground to activate the lights... if they are broken in an open state, there is no draw, if they are shorted to ground, they simply operate normally. Given the large draw and the lights being inoperative, it is more likely that you have a faulty ETACS computer.

I am attaching below the diagrams for your dome lighting, as that seems to be your key area where the problem will most likely reside. Once you click on them, please right click and save them to your computer for printing, etc as they will only be up for a short period.
graphic
graphic
graphic
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
If I place my vom between the battery post & the cable with vom in DC Volts this should tell me the draw? Also if I except the answer can I get back to you with additional questions?
Expert:  Doug replied 2 years ago.
No.

You need to have a meter that measures amperes, and must be digital. If you have a regular VOM it will not usually have amperes, as they are very unreliable in this particular application and are typically omitted. If you have a DVOM these usually have amperes measurement.
Set the DVOM to amperes, 10A and reposition your leads to COM and 10A, then put the meter in line between the negative post and terminal (terminal disconnected from the battery). Make sure the key is OFF in the car or you will pop your meter.
Measure the reading on the DVOM.... if it is very low (decimal) or shows 1 etc, then switch to 1A.... this will require usually moving your red lead off 10A and back to VO1A and check your reading.
It will be in decimal, and depending on your meter may auto-decimal, so watch the indicator to see if it is at A, mA.

You can always contact me back at this page regardless of accept. When you post here I am notified and will get back with you as soon as I am available; I work normal hours like most people so if you contact me in the early morning hours or during a 'busy' period here, there may be some delay before I can get back with you, however I will receive your post and get back to you as soon as I am at work and available.
Please do not feel pressured to accept unless you are happy with one or more of my answers. Again I will be available to you on this subject regardless of accept(s) made.

Thanks
Doug, ASE Certified Technician
Category: Mitsubishi
Satisfied Customers: 6659
Experience: Mitsubishi employed and Factory trained ASE certified technician
Doug and 3 other Mitsubishi Specialists are ready to help you
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Hi Doug
When I hooked up my dvom I only had a .016 amp draw. I had the keys in switch but in off after I took the keys out the meter jumped to 2.68 amps for about 25 seconds but nothing came on then back to 016. After opening the doors several times except driver door the interior lights came on and would go off after about 25 sec. They would not come on with drivers door so I pulled the jamb switch and ordered a new one. Is there a relay in the circute if so where is it located? Its funny that the lights started working. Now if you put the keys back in then take them out all the lights come on for a short time.
Is their anything else I shoud check?
Expert:  Doug replied 2 years ago.
Hi,

Sorry for the delay, I have been out of the office all day and just checked my messages.

The 0.016A draw is within normal range... anything over about 0.060 is considered parasitic. For most vehicles 0.040 and over is parasitic, though on cars with more modules it can go a bit higher. 0.016 is actually quite low, though the dome lights not working may be why (it may jump to 30mA or so with them working).
The increase to 2.68 after removing the keys is not abnormal; the key switch detected a change, which awakened a few modules (ETACS/front ecu etc) then it shut down. This is normal behavior (and why I mentioned not to turn the key on as well... if the key was turned on you'd see about 20A before your meter popped).

I am not real clear on the situation with the lighting right now... is it that the drivers door does not turn the lights on but the other doors will now?

Thanks
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Yes to your question, When you open any door but the drivers door the the interior lights come on now. but if you open the drivers door the lights do not come on. I removed the jamb switch and ordered a new one & I expect the lights will work with new switch. If you are in car with doors closed & key in and remove the key the lights come.
The car sat for about 2 weeks with #11 fuse remove before I worked on it today. before I removed the fuse there was a 2.6 amp draw. today when i hooked up the dvom I only had the .016 amp draw with fuse installed. Not sure what changed because I did nothing. coud the ETACS reset with no power to it for 2 weeks? not sure what to do now. After I put the battery cable the car runs good except when it goes to idel & will die if you don't catch it.
Expert:  Doug replied 2 years ago.
Thanks for the clarification.

It sounds like it may be as simple as a bad pin switch for the drivers door here, as you figured since you have one ordered.

If you are in the car and the key is in, the lights will come on when you pull the key. This is the key detection switch closing, and is normal behavior. The lights should go out shortly afterward.

The only thing I could figure regarding the draw prior it if the pin switch was shorted to ground, completing the dome circuit, however your dome lights should have been on. Even if the signal was ignored, then the draw would have dropped. I would be more suspicious that the previous reading was erroneous more than a problem was there then it went away. It is possible, just not terribly probable.

With regard to your stalling at idle, this is because of the vehicle sitting presumably with low power. The throttle body adaptation will be lost if the vehicle sits for long periods and the power drops significantly in the battery. Correction is pretty straight forward, just clean the throttle body. When the adaptation is lost, the idle control valve reverts to it's base setting, where it would be with no adaptation. So get the throttle body clean and it will match the adaptation level and your idle quality will be restored.
Just remove the intake hose (10mm clamps) and use brake cleaner or carb cleaner (I prefer brake cleaner, it is not as oily) and spray a rag and reach in and wipe it out thoroughly. Do not spray into the throttle body, only onto a rag. It will take multiple passes, and be sure to get all the way around the contact area for the throttle plate. If you have hard deposits, you can use a scotch brite pad, a wire brush, or even gently use a flat edge screwdriver to knock them loose. Afterward follow up with the solvent and rag again. When you are done it should be spotless inside, nothing but silver on the barrel of the throttle body.
Customer: replied 2 years ago.
Thanks Doug
I will clean the throttle body tomarrow
Expert:  Doug replied 2 years ago.
No problem, have a great night!

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