Mitsubishi Repair Problems? Ask a Mechanic for Answers ASAP
Hi,Just so we are clear, you have wetness on the driver side floors only, nothing on the passenger side, and it occurs regardless of recent rain, is that correct?
I only noticed the wetness yesterday, and it did not rain yesterday. The front drivers floor was where the main wetness was. The passenger front floor did appear to be a bit damp but nowhere as much as the drivers side. I just thought that since someone else has experienced a similar problem that maybe it was something common to this vehicle or its airconditionig system. I should mention that I had the AC floor vents opened yesterday.
There are two extremely common issues in regards XXXXX XXXXX wet floors on this vehicle, and they are identified by only occurring on one side or the other, which is why it was important to verify the only one side occurring was the drivers.
The problem is caused by a failed seal between the firewall and the AC box where the drain tube protrudes through the firewall. This foam seal deteriorates with age, and allows water to run back in.
There are two possible repair avenues for this, one is elaborate, time consuming, and expensive.... which is to remove the dashboard, crash bar, and finally AC box to replace the seal. The second is very cheap and with some patience can be done by some do it yourselfers or can be performed at a repair shop for usually less than $100.
What we are doing is installing a 90 degree rubber hose onto the existing plastic drain, preventing the water from ever being able to run back in. The repair is quite honestly a huge pain, however not nearly as bad as dash removal, and can be done usually in under an hour. The reason it is difficult is that the drain tube is inside a double boxed section of frame, not easily accessible. In order to install the drain, we need to 'fish' for the tube with some steel wire.
The access point for the drain is on the firewall just to the side of the brake booster and near the brake line junction, pictured here:
The reason why we need to use wire or a metal rod to access the drain is that it is not centered behind this hole, it is offset about 3/4 inch down and to the right as shown below
It helps to pop the brake lines loose formt he firewall as well as unbolt the steering hose and push it out of the way a bit, then I like to use an old dipstick to fish into the drain tube. With a slight bend to it, I place it inside my right hand little finger, then feel around with my finger tip until it is inserted in the drain:
Once inserted we need some special parts... this is actually a coolant jug hose from a 2000 Eclipse, but works outstanding in this capacity as well. It simply needs to be trimmed down a bit:
Once prepared, I usually use a little bit of grease on the end of the hose to make it slide onto the drain tube easier, then slide it right over the metal wire/dipstick/etc. If the wire is properly inserted into the drain tube, there is no where for the hose to go but right over the drain tube:
Once installed, you can gently pull the metal wire out and check to make sure the hose is secure; it will be very obvious if it did not go on all the way. At that point I like to install a ziptie around the hose just to help keep it put:
Once done, the driver side water issue will be completely resolved, as it will be impossible for the water to run back into the vehicle